small rip in lead porch roof

[4Q]

I wasn't arguing, I was replying to the OP's initial question

familyguy1 said:

As the whole roof does not need to be replaced, what does anyone suggest would be the best fix for this ?

[anonymous-user]

familyguy1 said:

I'm after some advice for my small porch at the front of my 1940's house, it has a lead finish too it which must be original, its all fine apart from a couple of small rips which have happened over time.

As the whole roof does not need to be replaced, what does anyone suggest would be the best fix for this ?
hopefully these links work

Me too, only more helpful

[4Q]

V6Pushfit said:

Me too, only more helpful

You're not a roofer so have no fking idea whether the bodge will work or not. Check both our posting histories and see who gets into an arguement on every thread.

Btw apologies op for getting into an aguement on your thread however I stand behind my first post. If you need to make a temporary repair for now then fair enough but make sure the timber is dry under the lead before sealing it up otherwise you're going to have bigger problems sooner than you'd like.

[Wacky Racer]

Flashband, then paint over the affected area with ISOFLEX rubber solution...wonderful stuff.

Been using it thirty years on and off, never let me down yet.

You can get it in grey....

[familyguy1]

I also said that I didn't believe the whole roof needed to be replaced. But as others have since posted welding or repairing the lead will cause stresses and the rips will just happen again. So I'm exploring an alternative of the screwfix option as that puts no stress on the existing lead.

It's not ideal but given it will never be seen and the fact there are other pressing demands to our money and there has been no sign of water leaking or flaking paint. I might give it ago. If it's crap I've only wasted 7£ .

Thanks for all the constructive replies.

[anonymous-user]

4Q said:

V6Pushfit said:

Me too, only more helpful

You're not a roofer so have no fking idea whether the bodge will work or not.

The last two roofs were £300k++. One done one about to start. No flashband but a lot of code 6!
So, you just don't know who is on here do you.
Thankfully OP has confirmed what he said, not just the bit you latched onto and started the childish 'I know better' business [url]

[lost in espace]

Pop a bit of clear silicon in the holes, should last years.

[familyguy1]

4Q said:

I really detest bodgers and bodgers, there's no excuse unless you're in a fix, poor or a scumbag. Do it properly.

Err thanks for sharing your opinion, like you I'm not keen on bodging, but given alot of different factors (cash flow, work circumstances, family etc) the screwfix sealant might be a "solution".

[4Q]

familyguy1 said:

Err thanks for sharing your opinion, like you I'm not keen on bodging, but given alot of different factors (cash flow, work circumstances, family etc) the screwfix sealant might be a "solution".

I'm with you if it's a temporary fix and reading my 1st post back it might come across as a little harsh, wasn't meant to be. To rephrase, if a jobs worth doing do it properly otherwise you're only making a bigger problem for yourself or someone else later on. If budget or circumstance is an issue then there's nothing wrong with a temporary repair.

[roofer]

Well, if you're going to bodge it, at least use the correct stuff.

https://www.roofingsuperstore.co.uk/product/lead-s...

[roofer]

V6Pushfit said:

4Q said:

V6Pushfit said:

Me too, only more helpful

You're not a roofer so have no fking idea whether the bodge will work or not.

The last two roofs were £300k++. One done one about to start. No flashband but a lot of code 6!
So, you just don't know who is on here

Ooooh. Sound interesting ! Code 6 too! Listed ?

[anonymous-user]

roofer said:

Ooooh. Sound interesting ! Code 6 too! Listed ?

Grade 2* unfortunately. 1760 with what looks like original coverings. Lath & plaster torching has to be left in situ so its raise levels and leave old battens in. Top quality roof with fantastic carpentry.

[anonymous-user]

V6Pushfit said:

roofer said:

Ooooh. Sound interesting ! Code 6 too! Listed ?

Grade 2* unfortunately. 1760 with what looks like original coverings. Lath & plaster torching has to be left in situ so its raise levels and leave old battens in. Top quality roof with fantastic carpentry.

Yes I got the irony

[wolfracesonic]

If your going to bodgecreatively repair it OP, use Roofer's stuff on the lead roll but flashband on the long crack in the second pic; wire brush either side of the crack and brush away any dust (try not to breathe the dust in and wash your hands afterwards) Is the piece of lead in the second pic quite long?

[roofer]

V6Pushfit said:

roofer said:

Ooooh. Sound interesting ! Code 6 too! Listed ?

Grade 2* unfortunately. 1760 with what looks like original coverings. Lath & plaster torching has to be left in situ so its raise levels and leave old battens in. Top quality roof with fantastic carpentry.

Lathe and plaster ? Are you sure it wasn't lime mortar reinforced with animal hair ?

And by raise old levels, you mean counterbatten ? They let you raise levels on a grade 2* ?

[anonymous-user]

roofer said:

Lathe and plaster ? Are you sure it wasn't lime mortar reinforced with animal hair ?

And by raise old levels, you mean counterbatten ? They let you raise levels on a grade 2* ?

Conterbatten on rafters so level raised 25mm, keeping plaster on lath between. Torching usually just applied to the underside straight but as I said this was a top job originally.

[roofer]

V6Pushfit said:

roofer said:

Lathe and plaster ? Are you sure it wasn't lime mortar reinforced with animal hair ?

And by raise old levels, you mean counterbatten ? They let you raise levels on a grade 2* ?

Conterbatten on rafters so level raised 25mm, keeping plaster on lath between. Torching usually just applied to the underside straight but as I said this was a top job originally.

And Heritage approved the lift ? If you counterbattened, the minimum would have been 2x1 as the counter, then another 2x1 or 38x19 for the battens. But if it was torched , probably a slate roof?

Did they spec a breather, even though the torch was left in place ?

[anonymous-user]

roofer said:

And Heritage approved the lift ? If you counterbattened, the minimum would have been 2x1 as the counter, then another 2x1 or 38x19 for the battens. But if it was torched , probably a slate roof?

Did they spec a breather, even though the torch was left in place ?

In order
Yes
2x 25mm lift on slate
Breather

[roofer]

V6Pushfit said:

roofer said:

And Heritage approved the lift ? If you counterbattened, the minimum would have been 2x1 as the counter, then another 2x1 or 38x19 for the battens. But if it was torched , probably a slate roof?

Did they spec a breather, even though the torch was left in place ?

In order
Yes
2x 25mm lift on slate
Breather

Thing is, you're only actually lifting it 25mm....Do you mind if I call bullst ?

[anonymous-user]

roofer said:

Thing is, you're only actually lifting it 25mm....Do you mind if I call bullst ?

Do stop being a prat.
25 on top of the educating battens and 25 battens. There are 26 pitches to do.
I have no interest in your petty Miss Marple mission