New log burner in original chimney
Discussion
227bhp said:
We have this debate every year, last time we had it the one posting up the most nonsense and hot air had his own business fitting flues, so was protecting his own interests by by filling people with 5hit.
Like the examples above, Damp proofing injection and FENSA too, The Great Flue Epidemic is largely using smoke and mirrors to relieve you of your hard earned.
It isn't difficult to Google 'How a chimney works' and get:
"The rising hot gas creates a pressure difference called draft which draws combustion air into the appliance and expels the exhaust gas outside. Two factors affect the amount of draft produced by a chimney. ... Heat: the hotter the gases in the chimney compared to the air outside, the stronger the draft..... Etc.
It's exactly the same principle as hot gasses escaping from an engine down the exhaust.
This all day long , I've said a few times before , I installed mine in my current house about ten years ago , shoved a length of gas flue 3 parts the way up the chimney and blocked the chimney off with some plate I had lying around . I burn all sorts of crap on it , mainly chipboard kickers , carbon monoxide alarm has never sounded , I've never swept it since i put it in . I'm still alive and healthy .Like the examples above, Damp proofing injection and FENSA too, The Great Flue Epidemic is largely using smoke and mirrors to relieve you of your hard earned.
It isn't difficult to Google 'How a chimney works' and get:
"The rising hot gas creates a pressure difference called draft which draws combustion air into the appliance and expels the exhaust gas outside. Two factors affect the amount of draft produced by a chimney. ... Heat: the hotter the gases in the chimney compared to the air outside, the stronger the draft..... Etc.
It's exactly the same principle as hot gasses escaping from an engine down the exhaust.
Edited by 227bhp on Saturday 22 October 09:23
Most of the trade associations , hetas , fensa , and the rest are jobs for the boys backed by insurance policies .
Well, every chimney is different and your burner may or may not work properly as a result. Just because one works fine straight up the chimney doesn't mean they all will. If your chimney is on an outside wall for example then a liner plus insulation will make a massive difference to the draw. You really need to do a load of research on your own specific situation/setup before taking any old advice off the internet.
Mine is just into the original chimney circa 1900 no liner. Just swept it first. Probably would have put a liner in but I can't get near the chimney. I put my cats up but the pot is a good 8ft above the Ridge line.
The draw is amazing if anything it's too much. I have the damper closed and vents shut most of the time.
I place carbon monoxide and smoke alarms in all the rooms and it's always been fine.
The draw is amazing if anything it's too much. I have the damper closed and vents shut most of the time.
I place carbon monoxide and smoke alarms in all the rooms and it's always been fine.
Jinkster, have you looked up the chiney all the way up to daylight through the pot?
I only ask because chimneys can have some weird doglegs built in which old builders thought were a good idea. This was ours: the black line shows the old path which the installer had to alter so that he could get a 45deg bend into the flue:
Which brings me onto flues... if you get way with no flue, good on you. I went for full pumice lined flue with the clay balls insulating the void between flue and chimney. I don't regret this at all;
-The stove works perfectly, loads of draw absolutely blowtorching kindling and logs to get it going with air controls open, then easily turned down to quiet tickover when shut.
-The insulated flue means less condensation of smoke/creosote in the upper reaches of the chimney because it's hotter quicker. Doesn't risk seeping into bricks etc.
-Less likelihood of chimney fires (both of our neighbours have had these plus my Dad had a chimney fire in a 'money saving' non-lined chimney which caused problems. -He'll do anything to save money but regrets not lining his flue.
Up to you but I think it's money well spent.
I only ask because chimneys can have some weird doglegs built in which old builders thought were a good idea. This was ours: the black line shows the old path which the installer had to alter so that he could get a 45deg bend into the flue:
Which brings me onto flues... if you get way with no flue, good on you. I went for full pumice lined flue with the clay balls insulating the void between flue and chimney. I don't regret this at all;
-The stove works perfectly, loads of draw absolutely blowtorching kindling and logs to get it going with air controls open, then easily turned down to quiet tickover when shut.
-The insulated flue means less condensation of smoke/creosote in the upper reaches of the chimney because it's hotter quicker. Doesn't risk seeping into bricks etc.
-Less likelihood of chimney fires (both of our neighbours have had these plus my Dad had a chimney fire in a 'money saving' non-lined chimney which caused problems. -He'll do anything to save money but regrets not lining his flue.
Up to you but I think it's money well spent.
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