Sam's shed thread

Author
Discussion

samdale

Original Poster:

2,860 posts

184 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
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This spring I plan on building a shed/workshop. I've looked at prices of buying one, and it would probably work out cheaper. However I really like the idea of building it myself. Windows and doors exactly where I want, exact materials I want and the exact size I want. Plus the satisfaction of building it.

I've got a rough idea about the framework and roof construction but have plenty of questions about cladding and roofing materials.

If anyone is interested, I'll come back to this thread when I start the build and take pictures along the way. And I'll also have more questions to ask on the fly no doubt as I've never really taken on any project like this before.

The shed is going to be roughly 8' x 16' (probably make it exactly this size so the base is 4 sheets of 8x4.

So now to my points for discussion.

Roofing material:

I dislike rolls of felt. I have a wendy house currently being used as my shed that has some nice, thick, brick red felt shingles on it. Not only does it look a LOT nicer, it also seems to be a lot more durable. I'm willing to buy quality if it's worth it. I want this shed to be as low maintenance as possible once built.

Cladding:

Again, I don't want dead cheap feather edge, but not sure I can justify the nicer looking loglap T&G if there is a decent middle ground?

Insulation/Weather proofing:

Between the cladding and studwork, is it worth putting in some kind of breathable membrane?
Is Celotex the only real option for insulating?
This will be a "free standing" wooden structure sat on an existing concrete slab that is level with the lawn. Is there any way of insulating the floor without making the door threshold too high for getting the mower etc in and out? Is it worth doing at all? This will be a workshop/man room so needs to be comfortable.

Basic materials:

Should all the studwork be tanalised? Or is untreated ok and only external woodwork needs to be treated?
For sheet flooring, inner walls and roofing, use OSB or ply?
I think I've decided on 24" spacing for stud work as the general consensus is 16" is just not required.


We've now got plenty of time to thrash out all of the above before I get to it in spring. Maybe Santa will be nice and get me some new shiny shiny things to help me with the build too biggrin

Voldemort

6,144 posts

278 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
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If you're building from scratch I'd insulate it - and to do that 'easily' you'd be better leaving the studs at 16" to fit the pre-cut foams.

/2p

Muncher

12,219 posts

249 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
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I wouldn't bother insulating it unless you are putting a heat source in there. You cut put all the insulation in the world in there but left unheated the temperature will still drop to the ambient temperature very quickly.

hornetrider

63,161 posts

205 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
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samdale said:
The shed is going to be roughly 8' x 16' (probably make it exactly this size so the base is 4 sheets of 8x4.
I've never built my own shed from scratch, but have bought and assembled three now. One thing regards to the floor materials - the sheets are always the cheaper option. They warp a bit and are made of composite wood - you will be better served from a quality perspective to build the floor with joists and tongue and groove.

Just saying smile

samdale said:
Again, I don't want dead cheap feather edge, but not sure I can justify the nicer looking loglap T&G if there is a decent middle ground?
T&G is the way forward.


Edited by hornetrider on Wednesday 30th November 09:24

dogbucket

1,204 posts

201 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
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For the roof you could consider Onduline on top of OSB. Mine has been up for 5 years and looks as good as new.

Pip1968

1,348 posts

204 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
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dogbucket said:
For the roof you could consider Onduline on top of OSB. Mine has been up for 5 years and looks as good as new.
I had to look that up and now know what it is although presumably it is just a brand name. Anyway I too have used what I call 'wriggly tin' made of bitumen and it has lasted ten years so far. I did paint some bitumen onto the boards underneath to help the 'wriggly tin' too though. Belt and braces.

Pip

geeks

9,178 posts

139 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
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Pip1968 said:
dogbucket said:
For the roof you could consider Onduline on top of OSB. Mine has been up for 5 years and looks as good as new.
I had to look that up and now know what it is although presumably it is just a brand name. Anyway I too have used what I call 'wriggly tin' made of bitumen and it has lasted ten years so far. I did paint some bitumen onto the boards underneath to help the 'wriggly tin' too though. Belt and braces.

Pip
'Wriggly tin' hehe

Corrugated?

samdale

Original Poster:

2,860 posts

184 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
quotequote all
Pip1968 said:
dogbucket said:
For the roof you could consider Onduline on top of OSB. Mine has been up for 5 years and looks as good as new.
I had to look that up and now know what it is although presumably it is just a brand name. Anyway I too have used what I call 'wriggly tin' made of bitumen and it has lasted ten years so far. I did paint some bitumen onto the boards underneath to help the 'wriggly tin' too though. Belt and braces.

Pip
I've known it as coroline. Again I guess just a brand name. Just not sure in. The look. A bit too agricultural?

samdale

Original Poster:

2,860 posts

184 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
quotequote all
Muncher said:
I wouldn't bother insulating it unless you are putting a heat source in there. You cut put all the insulation in the world in there but left unheated the temperature will still drop to the ambient temperature very quickly.
It won't be heated year round, but I'll certainly be running power to it and plugging a fan heater in to take the edge of when go in there in winter.

Yabu

2,052 posts

201 months

Wednesday 30th November 2016
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samdale

Original Poster:

2,860 posts

184 months

Friday 2nd December 2016
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Anyone have any opinions on roofing materials?

As much as the shingles look good, I can't help but thinking it'll be a really laborious job.

Slagathore

5,810 posts

192 months

Friday 2nd December 2016
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Rubber membrane/epdm stuff?

Pretty cheap and fairly easy to install.

I'd imagine pretty easy to repair or maintain on a flat roof shed as well.

samdale

Original Poster:

2,860 posts

184 months

Friday 2nd December 2016
quotequote all
Slagathore said:
Rubber membrane/epdm stuff?

Pretty cheap and fairly easy to install.

I'd imagine pretty easy to repair or maintain on a flat roof shed as well.
Sorry should have said, will be going for a pitched roof. Not too steep but enough for a bit of extra storage space

dickymint

24,331 posts

258 months

Saturday 3rd December 2016
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samdale said:
Anyone have any opinions on roofing materials?

As much as the shingles look good, I can't help but thinking it'll be a really laborious job.
Decra Tiles would be my choice - you can go to as low as 10 degree pitch.............


http://www.decra.co.uk/Products.aspx

samdale

Original Poster:

2,860 posts

184 months

Sunday 18th December 2016
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Hmm interesting idea those roof tiles. I'm now thinking about windows.

Down the long side facing into the garden I would like a large door to the right and the left I'd like quite a wide, high level window. Say 18" x 36+".

Can anyone see any obvious floors in looking for a second hand double glazed unit around the right size, then remove the glazing and frame it myself in wood?

If I can't find a nice long one then just 2 smaller ones. That side of the shed would be south facing so plenty of light. Keep them high-ish on the wall so I still have space underneath for workbench/shelves etc.

lj04

371 posts

191 months

Sunday 18th December 2016
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Building mine at the moment. If you go to woodhaven2 you will find a lot of advice. MikeG on there gives great advice.

samdale

Original Poster:

2,860 posts

184 months

Monday 19th December 2016
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Been trying to have a play with sketch up but not having much luck. All I want to be able to do is draw basic 3d block shapes to scale and drag them about. Seems to have a mind of it's own trying to move a 3d shape and then only moving one face of it, stretching the shape. I feel better off just drawing 2d shapes in something office based but it would be nice to draw it in 3d to show ideas.

Anyone use a more basic programme? From what people have created in sketch up it seems much more capable than anything I need

Slagathore

5,810 posts

192 months

Monday 19th December 2016
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samdale said:
Been trying to have a play with sketch up but not having much luck. All I want to be able to do is draw basic 3d block shapes to scale and drag them about. Seems to have a mind of it's own trying to move a 3d shape and then only moving one face of it, stretching the shape. I feel better off just drawing 2d shapes in something office based but it would be nice to draw it in 3d to show ideas.

Anyone use a more basic programme? From what people have created in sketch up it seems much more capable than anything I need
As you make each element, have you been saving it as a component? That should allow it to be moved as a whole piece.

battered

4,088 posts

147 months

Monday 19th December 2016
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My dad built a shed of about this size a few years ago, I gave him a hand here and there. It was built to a very high standard, since if you are my dad there are 2 ways to do anything – to a standard of absolute perfection, or plain f*ing wrong. No middle ground. After 1 winter, during which his woodworking tools and machinery picked up some light rust, he dry lined it with OSB and filled the cavity with fibreglass. At this point it was better insulated than my then house, and everything remained bone dry and corrosion free for the next 10 years. On this basis I’d recommend insulating it if you want to use it for things that you care about.

lj04

371 posts

191 months

Monday 19th December 2016
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Biggest advice I have been given is get all wood off the ground, with at least 3 layers of brickwork