Sam's shed thread
Discussion
mickmcpaddy said:
I've seen that. And it's where I got the idea for fence post corners. Not sure I can stretch to his budget for the roof though.Windows liberated from a skip at work. Nice hardwood frame and double glazed too. Just giving them a bit of a clean up as they've been sat for a while. Probably give them a sand down and treat with the same stuff I'll use on the cladding.
Next pic is of the profiles inside and out. I'm assuming the one on the right should be facing outwards?
Also, as these already have a frame, I'm not sure how to frame them? Can't visualise it.
External mitred trim overlapping edge of opening, window sealed up against back of trim with some kind of goo and then held in place internally by some kind of thin wood profile?
Some kind of drip edge above window?
It would have been nice to save the whole frame as these were originally sliding open on a ridged track.
Next pic is of the profiles inside and out. I'm assuming the one on the right should be facing outwards?
Also, as these already have a frame, I'm not sure how to frame them? Can't visualise it.
External mitred trim overlapping edge of opening, window sealed up against back of trim with some kind of goo and then held in place internally by some kind of thin wood profile?
Some kind of drip edge above window?
It would have been nice to save the whole frame as these were originally sliding open on a ridged track.
Progress made on the front wall today. Hopefully get the studwork finished this week and make a start on cladding and roof trusses.
I think I've talked myself into buying a 240v Brad gun for ease of installing cladding. A paslode for hire is £50/day +£20 for extra days. The amount of free time I have and the amount of days hire it would take means at those prices I can man maths buying an electric one for >£100. Plenty of other tasks I've wanted one for as well.
I've been reading about installing ship/loglap and opinions are mixed. Can I use 1 Brad at the top edge so that it's hidden by the lap of the next board? I feel that would be very secure and I'd want to nail near the bottom too but have read this can cause splitting as it dries??
Started making the roof today, Doggo helping as usual
Once they're all finished it'll be assembly time and cladding. And then I really do need to make a decision on roofing!
Looked at all the options for nail guns, including hiring. If I could get myself organised and do the whole thing in 2 days it'd be £70 for a paslode (£50 first day, £20 extra days). More than likely the free time and effort would come in 2 or more stages so hire would be £100+ minimum without even buying any ammo... I mean nails.
So a bit more man maths later, and having read some very mixed reviews about electric nailers, I've got a 16g pneumatic nailer and 50l compressor arriving tomorrow!
No point building a nice big shed and having nothing to store in it is there!?
Once they're all finished it'll be assembly time and cladding. And then I really do need to make a decision on roofing!
Looked at all the options for nail guns, including hiring. If I could get myself organised and do the whole thing in 2 days it'd be £70 for a paslode (£50 first day, £20 extra days). More than likely the free time and effort would come in 2 or more stages so hire would be £100+ minimum without even buying any ammo... I mean nails.
So a bit more man maths later, and having read some very mixed reviews about electric nailers, I've got a 16g pneumatic nailer and 50l compressor arriving tomorrow!
No point building a nice big shed and having nothing to store in it is there!?
I got the dewalt twinpack nailer guns, first fix and second fix and they are impressive bits of kit, no gas, and very powerful / controllable. The first fix is powerful enough for 90mm nails on softwood, not quite the ommpf of a paslode on harder woods, but for gasless it is hard to fault. The second fix gun is best nail gun Ive ever used, bar none. Amazinf thing, so fast and neat. and lasts for days on a charge.
The only criticism is the price of the nails. And also the amount you need to buy! My first 5 nail packs of mails from 90mm to 38mm was 106 quid! The twin pack of guns was 650 (on interest free!). But with the price of hiring a paslode, it should earn its keep on new dormer build, bathroom and pergola / summerhouse projects I have lined up.
The only criticism is the price of the nails. And also the amount you need to buy! My first 5 nail packs of mails from 90mm to 38mm was 106 quid! The twin pack of guns was 650 (on interest free!). But with the price of hiring a paslode, it should earn its keep on new dormer build, bathroom and pergola / summerhouse projects I have lined up.
ks...
Lost the love for this a bit and once the roof was on and weatherproof it sat for a while.
I'll upload what photos I have but there's a bit of a gap as you will see.
No photos of finishing off the roof but what I can say is that these roofing sheets are a breeze to put up. With someone handing me the sheets they went on in no time. I was joking with a friend about wearing a toolbelt. Makes you feel like a bit of a goon but by god it's handy!
Next was the cladding which was slow going. Time was taken up ensuring measurements were as accurate as possible and boards were kept level. Warped lengths causing it to go all out of level and then compensating for it on the next few. Also being aware of spacing. The difference in spacing on a dry or wet day is noticeable as the timber swells and dries out.
This was however made infinitely quicker by using a nail gun. I opted for an air powered paslode and 50mm brads. I looked at various options for this. Buying a gas powered gun was out as they were just too much money to justify. I could have hired such a gun but then the clock would have been running to keep rental costs down. This and the price of the nails! was what led me to an air powered gun. For little more than the price of a weekend rental and nails, I managed to purchase a 50l compressor and nail gun. I got an "A" in man maths
Should have thought this one through. Cladding the gable end with the roof overhanging meant I had to be slightly artistic with the nailing. On the plus side, the cuts didn't have to be accurate as the ends were hidden.
Cladding all finished.
Kept my eye on gumtree and found most of the insulation for free. managed to get 50mm all round.
Starting boarding out the inside.
Taking way too long making window frames. Planing a lip into the back edge of the boards so they overhang slightly and hide the rough edge of the OSB
Time consuming finishing touches. Planing 45deg chamfers on 2x1 to create window frame and door surrounds. Also fitted soffits? used 4x 8x4 sheets on the roof (1220mm) so sadly I needed a join as the roof line is slightly longer than 4.8m.
Before building this I couldn't picture how to make the door frame and footplate. I wanted the trim on the outside as in the picture above and an inward swinging door. Most sheds I looked at had outward facing doors and I didn't like the exposed edge of the cladding.
I started with just a treated 2x4 and set to work planing away. This SHOULD allow water to run in the correct direction and I've cut in a little drip edge underneath to stop it running back under.
Obviously I've planed away enough material that it's not protected as well any more. I've applied the green "end grain" treatment that I used on all of the cladding to help but appreciate this won't last as well as a proper hardwood one.
This also means I can have proper hidden hinges rather than the typical, completely unsecure surface mounted type that most shed doors seem to come with
Mocking up
I have boarded out the interior of the shed with 11mm OSB. Using full width sheets on the back wall really gave me an appreciation for how square (or not!) the whole shed is. For the most part I haven't cared too much about accuracy and level and was surprised how close it was! This has also added an enormous amount of rigidity to the whole structure.
Some may have noticed my recent thread about a large work bench top that I acquired from work. Well this is where it is going. Safely tucked away from becoming a hipster bar dining table
When I initially purchased all the wood for the shed build I bought 3" posts for the corners. However I'd forgotten to take into account the thickness of the battens when calculating the finished thickness of the walls! Not to worry, each post is the perfect length to create a pair of legs for the workbench. The 2x4 screwed to the wall is so I can add a half depth shelf under the bench at this height.
This is probably the longest shed build ever I know but this is where I am up to so far.
It has been a conscious decision to board the shed before getting power in as I want everything to be surface mounted so changes and additions can be made when necessary. Eventually I may want an outside socket at the far end of the shed to provide power to the bottom of the garden. The plan is to make a pergola down there with seating, BBQ etc
Cuurently, I believe I will need a Cable running from the consumer unit at the front of the house to a separate CU in the garage. This can then provide power and lighting to garage and shed. Sparky to confirm of course and will be the only part I won't be doing myself. I also want to make sure cable sizes etc are more than sufficient for what I want to run. I don't want to have to turn the fan heater off every time I want to run a power tool!
That's it for now, I'm back offshore tomorrow. Any comments, criticism, questions and feedback always welcome
I'll upload what photos I have but there's a bit of a gap as you will see.
No photos of finishing off the roof but what I can say is that these roofing sheets are a breeze to put up. With someone handing me the sheets they went on in no time. I was joking with a friend about wearing a toolbelt. Makes you feel like a bit of a goon but by god it's handy!
Next was the cladding which was slow going. Time was taken up ensuring measurements were as accurate as possible and boards were kept level. Warped lengths causing it to go all out of level and then compensating for it on the next few. Also being aware of spacing. The difference in spacing on a dry or wet day is noticeable as the timber swells and dries out.
This was however made infinitely quicker by using a nail gun. I opted for an air powered paslode and 50mm brads. I looked at various options for this. Buying a gas powered gun was out as they were just too much money to justify. I could have hired such a gun but then the clock would have been running to keep rental costs down. This and the price of the nails! was what led me to an air powered gun. For little more than the price of a weekend rental and nails, I managed to purchase a 50l compressor and nail gun. I got an "A" in man maths
Should have thought this one through. Cladding the gable end with the roof overhanging meant I had to be slightly artistic with the nailing. On the plus side, the cuts didn't have to be accurate as the ends were hidden.
Cladding all finished.
Kept my eye on gumtree and found most of the insulation for free. managed to get 50mm all round.
Starting boarding out the inside.
Taking way too long making window frames. Planing a lip into the back edge of the boards so they overhang slightly and hide the rough edge of the OSB
Time consuming finishing touches. Planing 45deg chamfers on 2x1 to create window frame and door surrounds. Also fitted soffits? used 4x 8x4 sheets on the roof (1220mm) so sadly I needed a join as the roof line is slightly longer than 4.8m.
Before building this I couldn't picture how to make the door frame and footplate. I wanted the trim on the outside as in the picture above and an inward swinging door. Most sheds I looked at had outward facing doors and I didn't like the exposed edge of the cladding.
I started with just a treated 2x4 and set to work planing away. This SHOULD allow water to run in the correct direction and I've cut in a little drip edge underneath to stop it running back under.
Obviously I've planed away enough material that it's not protected as well any more. I've applied the green "end grain" treatment that I used on all of the cladding to help but appreciate this won't last as well as a proper hardwood one.
This also means I can have proper hidden hinges rather than the typical, completely unsecure surface mounted type that most shed doors seem to come with
Mocking up
I have boarded out the interior of the shed with 11mm OSB. Using full width sheets on the back wall really gave me an appreciation for how square (or not!) the whole shed is. For the most part I haven't cared too much about accuracy and level and was surprised how close it was! This has also added an enormous amount of rigidity to the whole structure.
Some may have noticed my recent thread about a large work bench top that I acquired from work. Well this is where it is going. Safely tucked away from becoming a hipster bar dining table
When I initially purchased all the wood for the shed build I bought 3" posts for the corners. However I'd forgotten to take into account the thickness of the battens when calculating the finished thickness of the walls! Not to worry, each post is the perfect length to create a pair of legs for the workbench. The 2x4 screwed to the wall is so I can add a half depth shelf under the bench at this height.
This is probably the longest shed build ever I know but this is where I am up to so far.
It has been a conscious decision to board the shed before getting power in as I want everything to be surface mounted so changes and additions can be made when necessary. Eventually I may want an outside socket at the far end of the shed to provide power to the bottom of the garden. The plan is to make a pergola down there with seating, BBQ etc
Cuurently, I believe I will need a Cable running from the consumer unit at the front of the house to a separate CU in the garage. This can then provide power and lighting to garage and shed. Sparky to confirm of course and will be the only part I won't be doing myself. I also want to make sure cable sizes etc are more than sufficient for what I want to run. I don't want to have to turn the fan heater off every time I want to run a power tool!
That's it for now, I'm back offshore tomorrow. Any comments, criticism, questions and feedback always welcome
geeks said:
Nicely done! Any plans fro gutterings and water butts?
Possibly.As per the pics earlier in the thread, the downpipe from the garage is close and goes to a soakaway under the lawn. This system will have to be re-jigged at some point as the pipe will have to pass under a patio that I want to build (or have built). Once this work is under way, I'll look at either running shed guttering into this system, or in the opposite direction into water butts.
I don't like that the concrete slab goes all the way to the fence line as this means water from the back of the roof may flow under the shed.
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