Channeling cable into blockwork- conduit required?

Channeling cable into blockwork- conduit required?

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Discussion

hyphen

26,262 posts

90 months

Thursday 15th December 2016
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Alucidnation said:
And how do you think bonding is applied?

TBH, all of what you have typed there is complete st.
For thin chases I use a putty knife for the bonding... As helpful as "complete st" is, would you mind giving some actual information to back yourself up please smile

I am happy to be corrected, but I speak from my experience, I had a house fully rewired by a sparky and plastered it all myself.

When you bond, there is no reason to press down hard,, you are just pushing in bonding to a few mm below the surface, with no concern for it to look pretty, likewise when skimming, you are not pushing hard until nearer the end when its setting. A twin and earth is not made of jelly, it would need to be hit with pressure at an angle to nick it.

So as I said, in my view you would have to be pretty useless to do it.

Edited by hyphen on Thursday 15th December 22:22

ATTAK Z

11,049 posts

189 months

Thursday 15th December 2016
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Do not chase blockwork, it has structural implications

Cerbhd

338 posts

91 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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227bhp said:
You have zero chance of pulling a cable through a nailed/screwed on cable cover. The ones that allow you to do that are tubular conduit.

It is a bit of a waste of time really, I can see no advantage at all, it just looks a bit better before it's covered over.
I've rewired plenty of houses using existing capping routes although it is a pain and you have to be careful and tie on properly. However just use the oval conduit, it's hardly expensive and probably quicker to install than clipping the cables to soft block
OP, just ask the sparks how much more for conduit, it shouldn't be much, if any more

hairyben

8,516 posts

183 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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227bhp said:
You have zero chance of pulling a cable through a nailed/screwed on cable cover. The ones that allow you to do that are tubular conduit.
.
You should probably go spend a little time with a decent spark if you want to go telling the world what can and cant be done pal.

Chris Type R

8,031 posts

249 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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227bhp said:
You have zero chance of pulling a cable through a nailed/screwed on cable cover. The ones that allow you to do that are tubular conduit.

It is a bit of a waste of time really, I can see no advantage at all, it just looks a bit better before it's covered over.
I recently replaced a TV antenna cable with coax and network by pulling it through a metal cable cover.

I also managed to do move a plug in the kitchen about 300-400mm by pulling the cable slack through.

So, slightly higher than zero chance, in my experience.

227bhp

10,203 posts

128 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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hairyben said:
227bhp said:
You have zero chance of pulling a cable through a nailed/screwed on cable cover. The ones that allow you to do that are tubular conduit.
.
You should probably go spend a little time with a decent spark if you want to go telling the world what can and cant be done pal.
I'm no pal of yours.
I've seen plenty of 2.5 t&e clipped to walls and then covered over with a flimsy cover, single cables I can see being pulled through, but not that.
Any experienced electrician when asked about pulling cables up walls will tell you he'll give it a go for 10 mins or charge for more, but it's more than likely than not he won't be succeeding.

speedyman

1,525 posts

234 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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Walls (should) be drilled with masonary bits. Drilling a cable is easy with a masonary bit. A masonary bit will not drill metal or plastic conduit easily unlike a hss drill bit. Hence capping or oval conduit offers a greater protection to the cables from being drilled later, plus allows for a chance of rewiring unlike direct clip and plaster over. It costs pennies to add capping or oval conduit.

Yazza54

18,517 posts

181 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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I would certainly use conduit for mechanical protection, ease of re wiring and to a lesser extent heat dissipation.. although an adequately sized/grouped cable shouldn't get warm..

Edited by Yazza54 on Friday 16th December 11:08

hairyben

8,516 posts

183 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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227bhp said:
I'm no pal of yours.
I've seen plenty of 2.5 t&e clipped to walls and then covered over with a flimsy cover, single cables I can see being pulled through, but not that.
Any experienced electrician when asked about pulling cables up walls will tell you he'll give it a go for 10 mins or charge for more, but it's more than likely than not he won't be succeeding.
I guess youre not, being constantly corrected would be quite unpleasant.

I suggest you find a decent sparks, in honesty a dying breed as the trade is dumbed down (I was lucky enough to get a proper old school apprenticeship with the blokes who taught you all the tricks and made you go the extra mile) and prepare to be amazed.

hairyben

8,516 posts

183 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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speedyman said:
Walls (should) be drilled with masonary bits. Drilling a cable is easy with a masonary bit. A masonary bit will not drill metal or plastic conduit easily unlike a hss drill bit.
Have you ever used a drill? A hot masonary drill will go through plastic like butter. Metal capping will be pierced in no time- if you're experienced you can feel a pressure change as the metal bounces or hear the metallic rattle before it punches through but you have to be quick.

227bhp

10,203 posts

128 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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hairyben said:
227bhp said:
I'm no pal of yours.
I've seen plenty of 2.5 t&e clipped to walls and then covered over with a flimsy cover, single cables I can see being pulled through, but not that.
Any experienced electrician when asked about pulling cables up walls will tell you he'll give it a go for 10 mins or charge for more, but it's more than likely than not he won't be succeeding.
I guess youre not, being constantly corrected would be quite unpleasant.

I suggest you find a decent sparks, in honesty a dying breed as the trade is dumbed down (I was lucky enough to get a proper old school apprenticeship with the blokes who taught you all the tricks and made you go the extra mile) and prepare to be amazed.
I wouldn't be amazed, I was there in those times too. We used to do a lot of hospital contacts, as you maybe know (and forgive my nomenclature) it was all hand bent 1" galv tube, done by hand on one of those pipe benders on a stand, then hand threaded and wound together with threaded couplers - that was slow work and chasing it into often very hard brick walls a foul job too, although the sparks wouldn't touch that bit, the builders or apprentices used to get that to do.

hairyben

8,516 posts

183 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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227bhp said:
I wouldn't be amazed, I was there in those times too. We used to do a lot of hospital contacts, as you maybe know (and forgive my nomenclature) it was all hand bent 1" galv tube, done by hand on one of those pipe benders on a stand, then hand threaded and wound together with threaded couplers - that was slow work and chasing it into often very hard brick walls a foul job too, although the sparks wouldn't touch that bit, the builders or apprentices used to get that to do.
To be fair theres a lot of industrial background sparks who've come a cropper thinking domestic would be a piece of P because the theories simple when in reality a different set of skills are needed and nothing beats experience. And of course vice versa. Whatever you did with galv tube is as relevent to rewire skills as being certified on a 747 is to riding a motorbike, cos they both have engines and wheels.

Cerbhd

338 posts

91 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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227bhp said:
hairyben said:
227bhp said:
You have zero chance of pulling a cable through a nailed/screwed on cable cover. The ones that allow you to do that are tubular conduit.
.
You should probably go spend a little time with a decent spark if you want to go telling the world what can and cant be done pal.
I'm no pal of yours.
I've seen plenty of 2.5 t&e clipped to walls and then covered over with a flimsy cover, single cables I can see being pulled through, but not that.
Any experienced electrician when asked about pulling cables up walls will tell you he'll give it a go for 10 mins or charge for more, but it's more than likely than not he won't be succeeding.
I don't think anyone was suggesting clipping and then capping, but you can pull through capping, best use oval conduit as I said earlier though, proper job.

speedyman

1,525 posts

234 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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hairyben said:
speedyman said:
Walls (should) be drilled with masonary bits. Drilling a cable is easy with a masonary bit. A masonary bit will not drill metal or plastic conduit easily unlike a hss drill bit.
Have you ever used a drill? A hot masonary drill will go through plastic like butter. Metal capping will be pierced in no time- if you're experienced you can feel a pressure change as the metal bounces or hear the metallic rattle before it punches through but you have to be quick.
In your example it's not drilling is it, it's melting the plastic and i did say easily. Go and try drilling metal with a masonary bit, it does not drill easily, that's why there are different types of drill bits.

Ganglandboss

8,307 posts

203 months

Friday 16th December 2016
quotequote all
speedyman said:
hairyben said:
speedyman said:
Walls (should) be drilled with masonary bits. Drilling a cable is easy with a masonary bit. A masonary bit will not drill metal or plastic conduit easily unlike a hss drill bit.
Have you ever used a drill? A hot masonary drill will go through plastic like butter. Metal capping will be pierced in no time- if you're experienced you can feel a pressure change as the metal bounces or hear the metallic rattle before it punches through but you have to be quick.
In your example it's not drilling is it, it's melting the plastic and i did say easily. Go and try drilling metal with a masonary bit, it does not drill easily, that's why there are different types of drill bits.
You said a masonry drill will not drill plastic easily. It will. I have drilled PVC with a masonry drill on numerous occasions, as it is easier than changing the bit if you are fixing PVC to a wall. As for metal, it depends. The metal used for capping wiring is barely thicker than tin foil, a drill will go through it easily whatever the type. The only containment that stands any realistic chance of protecting a cable from a drill or a nail is proper metal conduit - the type you have to thread.

dickymint

24,344 posts

258 months

Friday 16th December 2016
quotequote all
speedyman said:
hairyben said:
speedyman said:
Walls (should) be drilled with masonary bits. Drilling a cable is easy with a masonary bit. A masonary bit will not drill metal or plastic conduit easily unlike a hss drill bit.
Have you ever used a drill? A hot masonary drill will go through plastic like butter. Metal capping will be pierced in no time- if you're experienced you can feel a pressure change as the metal bounces or hear the metallic rattle before it punches through but you have to be quick.
In your example it's not drilling is it, it's melting the plastic and i did say easily. Go and try drilling metal with a masonary bit, it does not drill easily, that's why there are different types of drill bits.
I drill through galv steel with a masonary bit all the time it's easy confused

Pheo

3,341 posts

202 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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I metal capped ours because nothing else would allow for a flat enough surface for the plasterer.

The oval stuff was too thick without major additional chasing and the plastic stuff deflected everywhere. 'Metal worked a treat.

hairyben

8,516 posts

183 months

Friday 16th December 2016
quotequote all
speedyman said:
hairyben said:
speedyman said:
Walls (should) be drilled with masonary bits. Drilling a cable is easy with a masonary bit. A masonary bit will not drill metal or plastic conduit easily unlike a hss drill bit.
Have you ever used a drill? A hot masonary drill will go through plastic like butter. Metal capping will be pierced in no time- if you're experienced you can feel a pressure change as the metal bounces or hear the metallic rattle before it punches through but you have to be quick.
In your example it's not drilling is it, it's melting the plastic and i did say easily. Go and try drilling metal with a masonary bit, it does not drill easily, that's why there are different types of drill bits.
U wot mate? Like this?




metal capping. plumber drilled through with masonry bit, cos it's a brick wall innit, shaved the red only, RCD failed to work (check 'em folks), plumber knew nothing until he stuffed a bit of 15mm copper tube into the hole and got thrown across the room.

speedyman

1,525 posts

234 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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More like a core bit.

Ganglandboss

8,307 posts

203 months

Friday 16th December 2016
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speedyman said:
More like a core bit.
A 15mm core drill?