Moving to IOW....

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Discussion

Snowdrop_

Original Poster:

223 posts

105 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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Hello All,

A while ago, I sold my business and have so far, being working for myself part time and my wife has been on maternity leave. We both agreed she wouldn't return to work after maternity.

We are now at the point, where we are debating another house move! We used to live in Ayr, then moved back to North Yorkshire back in September 2015 when the business sale had gone through. With the money in the bank still (or majority of it!), we have spoken about IOW. We want to move somewhere where it's a slower pace of life, somewhere I can still do remote work for clients with the odd day on site (majority of my customers are south based - so London, Bristol etc) and my wife will do part time work from home making craft things to sell.

We've found a beautiful house in the Shorwell area which we like, with a decent garden and driveway! We have been there about 12 times over the years on holidays and we do like it, but not debated living there until now.

So...my question is! Has anyone done it? Do you regret it? Any tips?

Thanks

Willeh85

760 posts

143 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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Have you thought about perhaps living in the New Forest or any of the smaller villages around Bournemouth, Southampton, Portsmouth. There are some beautiful places around there, especially in the New Forest that enjoy a much slower pace.

The reason that I've said that, is that if you're still intending on working on the mainland on a semi regular basis you'll soon get tired of the extra travel time and expense involved in getting the ferry to the mainland.

Don't forget as well that occasionally bad weather prevents travel, so its either wait until the bad weather passes and take the next available one or get a hotel for the night. Especially annoying if you're travelling to the cities by train?

With that said, last time I was there it did seem like a nice place and its nice to be so close to the sea, but you can get all of that easily on the mainland for less expense.

aspender

1,306 posts

265 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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By far the biggest thing I'd be thinking is what is it going to be like for my child(ren) growing up and beyond. I have no specific insight here but it would be something I'd research around how the education and health provisions are, prospects for jobs later into adulthood etc.

Totally aside, I do have friends that live on the IOW. They are now separated but he moved to the island as part of their relationship. I'd imagine he is now pretty much tied to it due to their child.

ClaphamGT3

11,300 posts

243 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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People that I know who have done it and carried on working even part time on the mainland always say don't underestimate the shag factor of getting anywhere from the island

mikeiow

5,367 posts

130 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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I was born there (over 50 years ago), spent most of my adult life in the Midlands but regularly get back.....we also have a place in Shorwell (2nd home we let for holidays - pm me if you would like details)....& I have family still there as well.

Definitely a slower pace of life....many good things to commend it. Health services are pretty good, although occasionally serious issues could mean visits to Southampton (none in my experience, I just know they occur).

Shorwell is a lovely village....not sure what internet you can get (we have a fairly feeble plusnet one, need to look into that myself one day!) - nice pub, plenty of walks if you like that (we do!), & easy to get to Newport for main shopping etc.
I would struggle to live there full time, I must admit....it is an Island, and a bit "insular" in some ways....plus we have clearly developed a lifestyle and friends circle here that could not be replicated easily there.

You don't mention children, but ours were a major reason we worked hard to get our place there, it is a mildly idyllic place for kids....until perhaps they become teenagers and get a bit bored!). I "escaped" when I was 18 to head to college and never returned.....

Yes, the cost & hassle of mainland trips shouldn't be underestimated, but ferry's are frequent (although not necessarily cheap), and frankly if the weather is bad enough to cancel them, then you probably want to stay put anyway! We did have a neighbour there who commuted to Canary Wharf 4 days a week (the Ports-Lon train meets the Ryde-P'mth fastcat) for a few years before emigrating!

Unemployment is higher than surrounding areas (& very seasonal, for obvious reasons), but I love the Island in spring/autumn when there are less holidaying visitors!

Mostly very friendly people, not too many major issues....again I much prefer the far less populous West Wight than the eastern side, but it is easy to get round!



anonymous-user

54 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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I used to commute to Newport on the IOW from Portsmouth. Found it rather an odd place and the south coast can be busy. Around the same time (1997) we discovered the IOM and we fell in love with it. Place goes mad during TT but MGP is similar albeit more grown up and relaxed. We've got a second home there now in Peel and go all year round, beautiful and loads of outdoor stuff to do. You can fly to Gatwick, Gloucester,Bristol or Birmingham and Ronaldsway is a delightful little airport. Book far enough in advance and tickets are about £20 per person!

I would definitely consider Isle of Man if you want a slower pace of life somewhere beautiful.


Snowdrop_

Original Poster:

223 posts

105 months

Monday 9th January 2017
quotequote all
Willeh85 said:
Have you thought about perhaps living in the New Forest or any of the smaller villages around Bournemouth, Southampton, Portsmouth. There are some beautiful places around there, especially in the New Forest that enjoy a much slower pace.

The reason that I've said that, is that if you're still intending on working on the mainland on a semi regular basis you'll soon get tired of the extra travel time and expense involved in getting the ferry to the mainland.

Don't forget as well that occasionally bad weather prevents travel, so its either wait until the bad weather passes and take the next available one or get a hotel for the night. Especially annoying if you're travelling to the cities by train?

With that said, last time I was there it did seem like a nice place and its nice to be so close to the sea, but you can get all of that easily on the mainland for less expense.
Not considered those places, we did consider South Oxfordshire - around Henley on Thames was an idea we discussed too. The extra travel might not be much of an issue due to the fact I live in Yorkshire and I travel to London, Kent, Bristol and even Exeter numerous times at the moment so time wise, but extra travel I understand.

aspender said:
By far the biggest thing I'd be thinking is what is it going to be like for my child(ren) growing up and beyond. I have no specific insight here but it would be something I'd research around how the education and health provisions are, prospects for jobs later into adulthood etc.

Totally aside, I do have friends that live on the IOW. They are now separated but he moved to the island as part of their relationship. I'd imagine he is now pretty much tied to it due to their child.
Forgot to mention kids, we have a 1yr old and 9yr old to consider.

ClaphamGT3 said:
People that I know who have done it and carried on working even part time on the mainland always say don't underestimate the shag factor of getting anywhere from the island
That one seems to crop up a lot...

mikeiow said:
I was born there (over 50 years ago), spent most of my adult life in the Midlands but regularly get back.....we also have a place in Shorwell (2nd home we let for holidays - pm me if you would like details)....& I have family still there as well.

Definitely a slower pace of life....many good things to commend it. Health services are pretty good, although occasionally serious issues could mean visits to Southampton (none in my experience, I just know they occur).

Shorwell is a lovely village....not sure what internet you can get (we have a fairly feeble plusnet one, need to look into that myself one day!) - nice pub, plenty of walks if you like that (we do!), & easy to get to Newport for main shopping etc.
I would struggle to live there full time, I must admit....it is an Island, and a bit "insular" in some ways....plus we have clearly developed a lifestyle and friends circle here that could not be replicated easily there.

You don't mention children, but ours were a major reason we worked hard to get our place there, it is a mildly idyllic place for kids....until perhaps they become teenagers and get a bit bored!). I "escaped" when I was 18 to head to college and never returned.....

Yes, the cost & hassle of mainland trips shouldn't be underestimated, but ferry's are frequent (although not necessarily cheap), and frankly if the weather is bad enough to cancel them, then you probably want to stay put anyway! We did have a neighbour there who commuted to Canary Wharf 4 days a week (the Ports-Lon train meets the Ryde-P'mth fastcat) for a few years before emigrating!

Unemployment is higher than surrounding areas (& very seasonal, for obvious reasons), but I love the Island in spring/autumn when there are less holidaying visitors!

Mostly very friendly people, not too many major issues....again I much prefer the far less populous West Wight than the eastern side, but it is easy to get round!
Thanks for that info, you probably will be getting a PM soon!

What else is there in Shorwell? It's an area we have been to but not taken full notice of if you know what i mean. We are aiming to get there this weekend obviously...

wormus said:
I used to commute to Newport on the IOW from Portsmouth. Found it rather an odd place and the south coast can be busy. Around the same time (1997) we discovered the IOM and we fell in love with it. Place goes mad during TT but MGP is similar albeit more grown up and relaxed. We've got a second home there now in Peel and go all year round, beautiful and loads of outdoor stuff to do. You can fly to Gatwick, Gloucester,Bristol or Birmingham and Ronaldsway is a delightful little airport. Book far enough in advance and tickets are about £20 per person!

I would definitely consider Isle of Man if you want a slower pace of life somewhere beautiful.
I did consider IOM. What is it like - in terms of living there, is there any differences (main) to UK mainland?

anonymous-user

54 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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Snowdrop_ said:
I did consider IOM. What is it like - in terms of living there, is there any differences (main) to UK mainland?
Well, very different. They have their own government (oldest in the world) and laws, most of which are based loosely on UK law. It's a very friendly place and relaxed. Parking laws, double yellows etc are seen more as guidance and so long as you aren't inconveniencing other people, the Police leave you alone. However, they don't tolerate serious crime of any sort so it feels really safe. Zero unemployment and business-friendly rates of tax. No stamp duty (worth considering if you are buying a house) and no council tax, although they operate the old rates system.

During summer the motorcycling events are something to behold and don't forget the rally. The rest of the time it's really relaxed and friendly. As soon as I'm able, I'm retiring there. https://www.visitisleofman.com/

DMN

2,983 posts

139 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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My parents took semi-retirement 13/14 years ago and moved the Isle of Wight. My Mum gave up working as a Teacher and became a shop assistant at a well known high street chain. This allowed her to transfer to the store on the Island. It took my Dad longer to find something, in fact he had to stay at my Grandmothers during the week so he could keep his mainland job, only going back to the Island at weekends. However that was then, they both have jobs they enjoy and are happy living there now.

When I finished Uni I had a lack of options, so I took the living free with Mum and Dad route. It took me 18 months after moving to the Island to find a full time job (notice a repeat theme here? - the jobs market isn't very good. The high price of the ferries means people can't afford to look at Southampton/Portsmouth for work. So wages on the Island are kept artificially low). In that 18 months I had temp jobs and part-time jobs, but nothing long term. After I was made redundant, I used the money to escape the Island. I've not looked back. There are things I miss about the Island, but the negatives out-weigh the positives for me.

I've only been back twice since I left, once to collect the last of my stuff from my parents, once just to visit three years ago. My wife (who I met on the Island) and I went out in Newport on a Saturday night and the place was dead (apart from the low rent chain pubs). It re-affirmed our choice to leave was correct. We're actually going back to see my parents next month.

The biggest thing has to be your Kids. They will love it when their young, they may resent it when they become young adults. Yes the Island is a great place to live, frankly the summers there are brilliant. The winters arn't, everyhwere shuts down. The nightlife is woefull. A simple day trip to anywhere further afield than Southampton or Portsmouth will be expensive. The Schools on the Island are poor (the OFSTED man was right), drug use is very common.

As said by Mike, its a different style and pace of life. I had five good years living there.


hyphen

26,262 posts

90 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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Snowdrop_ said:
and my wife has been on maternity leave.
Ofsted boss was in the news last year, slagged off IOW as an inbred ghetto. So make sure you are near good schools!!

https://www.tes.com/news/school-news/breaking-news...
https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2016/aug/05/of...
https://www.theguardian.com/education/2016/aug/23/...

Trabi601

4,865 posts

95 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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I spent a couple of days over there having our campervan converted.

Plus points are the slower pace of life, quiet roads etc., off season.

Minus points are that you're stuck on a little island with limited places to travel to and explore unless you go over to the mainland.

I was there the first week of December, and to be honest, I found it a depressing experience. Many places feel tired and run down, lots of places were closed.

Came to the conclusion that it's a great place to visit on a nice day when things are open, but I'd probably throw myself off the pier if I had to live there.

mikeiow

5,367 posts

130 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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Interesting views - I can see why people could find it depressing: heck, much of Britain could be depressing if there is nothing you like nearby!
Yes, it is NOT a busy metropolis - Newport as a main centre is nothing like a Southampton/York/Leeds/<insert big city here>!
Young children would indeed love it in summer, but the trick is to get them enjoying things in winter (as it is anywhere) - there are things like bowling/cinemas - not the masses of choice you would get in a big city, but they are there.
Plenty of outdoor things - paintball, headhunters (laser shooting in woods), masses & masses of walks & cycle routes, beaches to explore, pubs a-plenty....I did Scouts when I grew up, walked all over the Island.....my son did a Silver assessed DofE back on the Island with his team, hiking from lighthouse to lighthouse! Last trip down last summer we did yoga on stand up paddleboards at Bembridge, as well as my son/sister & I hiking 30 miles from the Needles on the west to Bembridge on the east....looong day!

That said, it is fair to say there are fewer jobs, & for older teenagers, more limited things....kids anywhere can easily get bored, and unless you get them into something exciting, they will be bored as much on the Island as they would in Oxfordshire, etc......get them into sailing and the world is their lobster! But yes, if they want to do something on the mainland, there is a ferry tax to pay!
I can't imagine the IOM being more exciting, but I am sure it is very lovely.

Shorwell itself is quite small - just a pub, lovely church and small shop. Brighstone is nearby and has two shops (ooooh, big, eh!), another good pub, a small museum worth a 30 minute visit. Mottistone Manor kept our young ones amused every easter with their egg hunt in the grounds.....Take a walk on the downs for a view - maybe head to Freshwater....park up & walk up to Tennyson Memorial for a cracking view, then walk back down & have tea/cake/lunch at Dimbola Lodge. Or lunch at the Highdown Inn....
We love Fort Victoria, bit further on & round towards Yarmouth.....model railway "exhibition" (cool if you are into that, interesting enough for one visit even if you aren't), tiny planetarium (is that an oxymoron?!) nice walk in the woods (look out for carved owls etc).
PM me & I can drop you some more....

Like I said, I would struggle to live there now - it *is* insular, but clearly ~100,000 others manage it, many very very happily! I'm not close to the schooling to know how good it is these days, mine ended at Medina back in '82 !!

oscmax

157 posts

127 months

Monday 9th January 2017
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We've lived on the IOW for 18 months after having a weekend/holiday house here for 4yrs or so before that. I'd say:

Pros:
  • slower pace of life, nothing happens quickly here-although whether this is actually a good thing is entirely subjective. We love it, plenty wouldn't.
  • people are generally (in my experience anyway) very friendly and we have found it easy to make friends here. People do seem to be generally just that bit more easy-going than in many other places.
  • It is a very beautiful place and (in my opinion anyway) living by the sea is "good for the soul"
  • there are fantastic opportunities for doing outdoor stuff sailing, surfing, cycling, running, walking riding etc
  • all your friends will come and visit you, sometimes whether you like it or not
  • lots of things are relatively cheap here (houses, eating out, good food, getting things done on your house...)
  • Southampton and Portsmouth are easily accessible - it takes no longer to reach a city of that size than if you lived in any other rural area, you just need to go by sea.
cons:
  • everybody drives very, very slowly
  • ferry travel can be pricey-I am fortunate enough that I don't worry too much about this, but it would be an issue for many or if I was going backwards and forwards at my own expense all the time
  • it can be time-consuming to get here, but if you are lucky enough to be able to work on a laptop like I am, you can simply use that as part of the working day. The red jet and red funnel ferries have Wi-Fi as well as an effectively guaranteed seat, so these days, it's just like being back in my office.
  • It is indeed very quiet over the winter months. The off-season is well and truly off. Many places shut at Christmas and do not open again until well into the New Year
  • without wishing to be too contentious, it is generally agreed that the state schools are poor. Some of the primary schools are decent enough, but if you want good secondary education, you will have to pay and go private. This does give you options, Ryde School is on the island and there are also decent options in Southampton and Portsmouth, although these would not be easy from Shorwell.
overall, I'd say it depends very much on what kind of people you and your family are and what you're really looking for. Any decision about where to live inevitably involves making a set of choices and accepting a set of compromises. However, there is no denying the IOW is a very particular and fairly extreme set of choices. It certainly isn't for everyone, but people who are looking for what it has to offer seem generally to be very happy here.

I've known the island nearly 20 years and there is certainly a different feel to Cowes and Ryde in particular these days. There are many more people working in London and elsewhere in the south-east and living here and commuting some of the time. However, whilst it sounds like it wouldn't be an issue for you and your wife, everyone has pointed out the lack of employment opportunities has it spot on. If you want to work outside tourism or agriculture, you will likely need to do it elsewhere or to be able to work from home!

Happy to answer any more specific questions if there's anything you like to know

Snowdrop_

Original Poster:

223 posts

105 months

Monday 9th January 2017
quotequote all
Wow, I'd like to thank you all for the replies, very informative!

I may be sending a couple of PMs here! It's defo give us food for thought, IoW is still winning at the moment - the reason behind is this we are thinking it really is slow paced life being on an Island as such more than just living out in the sticks somewhere. We are heading down Thursday to view property, spend a few days in the area to decide and then take it from there.


Dr Mike Oxgreen

4,118 posts

165 months

Tuesday 10th January 2017
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Personally the hassle of having to take the (expensive) ferry whenever transiting to and from the mainland and the length of time involved in that would put me off if it weren't for the fact that I have a PPL.

Visiting the IoW becomes a breeze if you can fly yourself there. I live in Woking and could quite easily be there in 45 minutes (and that's allowing 15 minutes to pre-flight the aircraft), or less time in something faster - although admittedly it usually takes me an hour because the temptation to fly around the coast of the island before landing is too great!

Unfortunately, neither Bembridge nor Sandown aerodromes have instrument approaches, so there will be days when you have no choice but to take the ferry. For this reason I liked someone's suggestion of IoM. Ronaldsway is a 'proper' airport with ILS approaches to both ends of its main runway - useful if you get yourself qualified to use it. And if the weather is below your personal minima then you can always take a commercial flight.

If you can afford it, I'd recommend getting a PPL (preferably with some form of IR attached) if you're thinking of living on an island.

Edited to add: Have you considered the Scilly Isles? St Mary's aerodrome has instrument approaches (albeit only timed NDB approaches without DME, and the runway is 'challenging').

Edited by Dr Mike Oxgreen on Tuesday 10th January 07:04

mikeiow

5,367 posts

130 months

Tuesday 10th January 2017
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Great PH response: have to grin at the idea of the IOW ferry being "expensive", when you have a pilot licence.....I never knew rates were so low for flying!
Seriously, the IOW ferry is around £20 for an adult return...car and all passengers ranges from £50-150 depending on time of year/day.....so yes, NOT cheap, but how much is it for a share in access to a light aircraft and a daily or weekly hire rate?! I've been using the wrong transport all these years!
Red Funnel is generally a bit cheaper than Wightlink.....rates are generally a bit cheaper for returns from the Island...
There is always the chance to join the campaign for a fixed link......

<edit> just checked on the cost of getting a ppl.....looks in the region of £8k-£15k. That's a LOT of ferry crossings!! Of course, if that is a main hobby (or even better, source of income!), then it comes under a different heading....but the running costs???!

Edited by mikeiow on Tuesday 10th January 08:12

hornetrider

63,161 posts

205 months

Tuesday 10th January 2017
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Or you could buy your own RIB for 3k and sort out a mooring somewhere.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142229438817

Edited by hornetrider on Tuesday 10th January 08:22

romeogolf

2,056 posts

119 months

Tuesday 10th January 2017
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I've got two or three friends who grew up on the IOW. Unanimously, they call it the "Isle of ste" and all said that growing up there was awful, with little to do, and a greater expense to go elsewhere than if they'd been living just across the water in Southampton. Now older, they can appreciate the scenery and so on, but as teenagers 10 years ago, it was less exciting.

It's only one factor, granted, and none of them think their lives were ruined, but it's one to consider.

SS2.

14,462 posts

238 months

Tuesday 10th January 2017
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mikeiow said:
There is always the chance to join the campaign for a fixed link.
As someone from the mainland who visits the Island at least six or seven times a year, I'm 100% no thanks to a fixed link - I think it would change the entire feel of the place and make it far less 'island like'.

The fact that it is only accessible by water (or air, if you have sufficient means) is one of the big appeals - the minute you get onto the ferry / RedJet, your holiday / break has started. Driving across a bridge or through a tunnel just wouldn't be the same.

As far as commuting is concerned, I think a Southampton / Cowes season ticket on the RedJet works out at about £10 per return trip for a typical working year, cheaper if you throw in a few shopping trips to the mainland.

Edited by SS2. on Tuesday 10th January 09:15

Snowdrop_

Original Poster:

223 posts

105 months

Tuesday 10th January 2017
quotequote all
Yes, unfortunately I don't have a pilots licence! So that is out of the question...

When I looked at the ferry crossings and cost, I didn't think they were too bad. For instance, if I was using for work - I could get it for £36 return which to me is acceptable.

Thanks again for all the help so far, I am finding them very interesting to read.