Insulating rafters
Discussion
Spudler said:
Definitely.
Loft insulation would be fine unless you're after acoustic values then isover or rockwool.
Thank you - our kitchen lighting is currently pathetic so while the floor is up I plan to put in downlighters. With LEDs do I still need to use some sort of cap to keep them away from the insulation? Loft insulation would be fine unless you're after acoustic values then isover or rockwool.
Like these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ALC274-274x162mm-Downligh...
olimain said:
Spudler said:
Definitely.
Loft insulation would be fine unless you're after acoustic values then isover or rockwool.
Thank you - our kitchen lighting is currently pathetic so while the floor is up I plan to put in downlighters. With LEDs do I still need to use some sort of cap to keep them away from the insulation? Loft insulation would be fine unless you're after acoustic values then isover or rockwool.
Like these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ALC274-274x162mm-Downligh...
olimain said:
Spudler said:
Definitely.
Loft insulation would be fine unless you're after acoustic values then isover or rockwool.
Thank you - our kitchen lighting is currently pathetic so while the floor is up I plan to put in downlighters. With LEDs do I still need to use some sort of cap to keep them away from the insulation? Loft insulation would be fine unless you're after acoustic values then isover or rockwool.
Like these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ALC274-274x162mm-Downligh...
Cut up some soil pipe or downpipe.
For the sake of a small amount of work it's piece of mind.
DoubleSix said:
olimain said:
Spudler said:
Definitely.
Loft insulation would be fine unless you're after acoustic values then isover or rockwool.
Thank you - our kitchen lighting is currently pathetic so while the floor is up I plan to put in downlighters. With LEDs do I still need to use some sort of cap to keep them away from the insulation? Loft insulation would be fine unless you're after acoustic values then isover or rockwool.
Like these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/ALC274-274x162mm-Downligh...
Spudler said:
Personally I would, even if sparks say no need.
Cut up some soil pipe or downpipe.
For the sake of a small amount of work it's piece of mind.
Haha yeah I wasn't thinking of buying them from there, 12 quid for that seems ridiculous. Plus I can't look at them without thinking hospital bed pan!Cut up some soil pipe or downpipe.
For the sake of a small amount of work it's piece of mind.
Soil pipe sounds good as I have a few m left over from digging in the new stack. just cut a few inches and sit it over the light or does it need some sort of cap/bung on top too?
Edit: in fact I think I get what you mean, open ended length of pipe popped over each light and the insulation snug around the sides but not on top of it?
Edited by olimain on Thursday 19th January 13:44
TA14 said:
Quite: http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/terracotta... and that one's on the large side
That is genius! Cheap and easy, what's not to like?Whilst adding extra insulation is a good thing don't forget about ventilation. I'm currently upgrading an old loft, BC are more concerned about the ventilation than getting the maximum amount of insulation squeezed in.
The interior of the dormer was black with mold when we took out the rockwool, there was zero ventilation.
The interior of the dormer was black with mold when we took out the rockwool, there was zero ventilation.
Little Lofty said:
Whilst adding extra insulation is a good thing don't forget about ventilation. I'm currently upgrading an old loft, BC are more concerned about the ventilation than getting the maximum amount of insulation squeezed in.
The interior of the dormer was black with mold when we took out the rockwool, there was zero ventilation.
The eaves space behind that wall in the photo is very draughty and the 50mm air gap will be left on the cold side of the rafters to (hopefully!) cover me.The interior of the dormer was black with mold when we took out the rockwool, there was zero ventilation.
Insulating the space between two occupied rooms seems a bit unecessary to me, as presumably you'll be heating both spaces so what is to be insulated? Comes at a significant cost and makes future plumbing and electrical work a lot harder than it needs to be... Would current building regs require this in a new build?
Jambo85 said:
Insulating the space between two occupied rooms seems a bit unecessary to me, as presumably you'll be heating both spaces so what is to be insulated? Comes at a significant cost and makes future plumbing and electrical work a lot harder than it needs to be... Would current building regs require this in a new build?
In our recent loft conversion they definitely insulated the floor - no idea whether it's compulsory on a new build or not. Using loft insulation would be pretty cheap though compared with something like Celotex.Edited by olimain on Thursday 19th January 15:23
Jambo85 said:
Insulating the space between two occupied rooms seems a bit unecessary to me, as presumably you'll be heating both spaces so what is to be insulated? Comes at a significant cost and makes future plumbing and electrical work a lot harder than it needs to be... Would current building regs require this in a new build?
We've done it for years.Sound deadening purposes.
Just the click of a light switch or a plug in a socket sounds naff.
Let alone no one wants to hear the adjoining room.
You'll find its specified now anyway.
Spudler said:
Jambo85 said:
Insulating the space between two occupied rooms seems a bit unecessary to me, as presumably you'll be heating both spaces so what is to be insulated? Comes at a significant cost and makes future plumbing and electrical work a lot harder than it needs to be... Would current building regs require this in a new build?
We've done it for years.Sound deadening purposes.
Just the click of a light switch or a plug in a socket sounds naff.
Let alone no one wants to hear the adjoining room.
You'll find its specified now anyway.
Jambo85 said:
Spudler said:
Jambo85 said:
Insulating the space between two occupied rooms seems a bit unecessary to me, as presumably you'll be heating both spaces so what is to be insulated? Comes at a significant cost and makes future plumbing and electrical work a lot harder than it needs to be... Would current building regs require this in a new build?
We've done it for years.Sound deadening purposes.
Just the click of a light switch or a plug in a socket sounds naff.
Let alone no one wants to hear the adjoining room.
You'll find its specified now anyway.
roofer said:
paulrockliffe said:
On a loft conversion where purlins are being removed and rafters increased in depth, how would you recommend insulating? Is this sort of stuff worth using or is celotex still the way to go?
Re roof ? Existing breather membrane?That said, initial calcs have the rafters being reinforced with 200m timber, if the purlins come out, which means depth is no longer an issue. Need to remind the designer that the rafters are supported by a dwarf wall so the spans applied are wrong and see if that gets the timber depth down.
paulrockliffe said:
Roof is 4 years old with breather membrane. Plan isn't set in stone, but likely the idea is to not take the front off and the rear might stay too if planning permission (conservation area) isn't possible. So roof lights only. Assuming what's there now stays, ventilation added, and the thinnest construction possible to minimise roof height loss, what's the best approach with insulation?
That said, initial calcs have the rafters being reinforced with 200m timber, if the purlins come out, which means depth is no longer an issue. Need to remind the designer that the rafters are supported by a dwarf wall so the spans applied are wrong and see if that gets the timber depth down.
You'll probably get away with 150mm rafters, so 100mm celotex in between and 30/40mm underneath.That said, initial calcs have the rafters being reinforced with 200m timber, if the purlins come out, which means depth is no longer an issue. Need to remind the designer that the rafters are supported by a dwarf wall so the spans applied are wrong and see if that gets the timber depth down.
If you don't have an Article 4 attached then you will probably be able to put a dormer on the rear under permitted development. Conservation areas are a bit toothless without an Article 4 attached.
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff