280i Clutch Cable

280i Clutch Cable

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Discussion

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Saturday 21st January 2017
quotequote all
I need to detach this from the clutch pedal so I can fit a new bulkhead grommet. It's look like all I need to do is unbolt the clamp holding the end of the cable (see arrow) and release it.



It doesn't seem to be under tension. Is it that simple? (Well, apart from having to take the seat out to get access laugh)

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Saturday 21st January 2017
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v8s4me said:
It doesn't seem to be under tension.
there should be a little "free play" in a clutch cable, definitely no tension until pedal is pressed.

mrzigazaga

18,557 posts

165 months

Saturday 21st January 2017
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Hi mate


Its actually the outer cable that is stressed...The inner is held in place by a fixing and a 10mm nut IIRC.....The metal tube pushes the outer sleeve.

Bit of a weird set up, I always thought it could be modified to a bracket that holds the outer and the inner would need to be attached to the top of the pedal.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Saturday 21st January 2017
quotequote all
Thanks for the responses. Is there any chance the other end could fall off the clutch lever?

mrzigazaga said:
.... I always thought it could be modified to a bracket that holds the outer and the inner would need to be attached to the top of the pedal.
In due course it will be modified to hydraulic. Lots to do before I get around to that little job though.


Edited by v8s4me on Saturday 21st January 21:31

mrzigazaga

18,557 posts

165 months

Saturday 21st January 2017
quotequote all
v8s4me said:
Is there any chance the other end could fall off the clutch lever?
As far as I remember its held in place via an adjuster....

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Saturday 21st January 2017
quotequote all
Thank you thumbup

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Sunday 22nd January 2017
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v8s4me said:
.......... Is it that simple? .......
rofl Only on a TVR could undoing one small nut be so difficult and back-breaking!

With the cable out of the way it made sense to test how the m/cyl I picked up cheap during the summer might fit...



The push-rod doesn't line up with the pedal but if I fit a rose joint on the end of the rod then it should be simple enough to connect the rod to the pedal lever. Just need to work out what slave cylinder to use now.

Unfortunately the idea of fitting a nice close fitting grommet went out the window the first time I pressed the clutch because of course with the outer cable doing the moving, it just pulled the grommet out with the cable. Still, it's better than it was and should keep a lot more water out now.

Edited by v8s4me on Sunday 22 January 19:59

mrzigazaga

18,557 posts

165 months

Sunday 22nd January 2017
quotequote all
v8s4me said:
Only on a TVR could undoing one small nut be so difficult and back-breaking!
Oh yeah...Sorry forgot about that bit...hehe...I have done that so many times that I chose to forget...My first Wedgefest was nearly hindered by a snapped clutch cable as I came over Vauxhall bridge..Had to remove the oil filter and contort myself in the footwell as well as get moaned at by cyclists because I had stopped in a cycle lane/Red route two police on horseback laughed when I told the miserable cyclist .."Go on ..On ya bike"...smile

JamesMK

556 posts

251 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
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I got fed up with the cable snapping and always carried a spare after the first failure left me stranded in the yorks moors out of range of a signal.

I had a hydraulic set up fitted instead which itself caused a few problems - initially as it wouldn't disengage the clutch far enough then as the pedal didn't quite align with the master cylinder it tended to stick until I had a rose joint fitted. Much better and since then the only problem is the frequency at which cylinders seem to wear out.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
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Hi James. Any idea what slave cylinder was used. Thanks.

JamesMK

556 posts

251 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
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Pretty sure it was the same as a 350i, but can't say for sure. It sits low down where it is vulnerable to road dirt hence it's limited life. I'm sure someone on here will know the exact spec.

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
I'm completely confused here. This is the clutch lever on the bell-housing....



So obviously the inner cable is pulling the lever. This is the outer cable in the adjuster...



As you can see the adjuster is screwed into a cast bracket on the side of the bell-housing which means its position is fixed relative to the clutch lever. But is it is the outer cable which is being pushed by the clutch pedal, how does it all work then? confused

Or am I just being stupid?


mrzigazaga

18,557 posts

165 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
quotequote all
Hi Joe.


Instead of the outer having a bracket and the pedal pulling the cable it has the metal tube that pushes against the outer whilst pulling the inner...You would need a bracket and a different clutch pedal to have it any other way I should imagine...smile

Probably something like this...
https://www.google.co.uk/aclk?sa=l&ai=DChcSEwj...

Edited by mrzigazaga on Monday 23 January 20:59

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
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On the V6 engined S series cars TVR concocted a bracket to fit a slave cylinder where Ford had intended a cable to go.....






v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Monday 23rd January 2017
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How was the bracket attached to the bell-housing?

phillpot

17,115 posts

183 months

Tuesday 24th January 2017
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It sort of hooks in, there's a bent bit behind where the slave cylinder is attached and then a bolt goes through hole on the left and uses redundant clutch cable hole.

JamesMK

556 posts

251 months

Tuesday 24th January 2017
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On early S1 models there was a hydraulic system with the slave contained with the bell housing, so I read. They changed over to a cable after a short time, certainly by the time mine was made in 83. Maybe yours has been modified at some point?

v8s4me

Original Poster:

7,240 posts

219 months

Tuesday 24th January 2017
quotequote all
Mine's slightly later than the ones fitted with the concentric slave (but only by a few months or so) so I think cable operation is OE.

SEvans

1,159 posts

267 months

Tuesday 24th January 2017
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It's at the pedal end that it pushes the outer cable rather than pulling the inner. If you watch the cable at the bulkhead you will see the outer cable moving in relation to the bulkhead. I seem to remember a good number of years ago reading an article in Sprint where the pedal box was replaced and/or modified so the outer cable was fixed and the inner moved. I have tried to find the article but no luck yet but I'll keep looking and post when I find it.
Cheers Steve.

Mr Tank

5,797 posts

275 months

Tuesday 24th January 2017
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Hi

Well below I think is the answer to the Tasmin-280i clutch operation question. A lot has already been said about it, some correct and some partly correct. In fact it's a simple thing.

To start with you have a bowden cable with unequal length's a longer inner than the outer.

Both the inner and outer cables are secured at one end (The opposite end to each other.)

The inner in the drivers foot well just before the clutch pedal and then this goes into the outer cable at the clutch pedal and it comes out of the outer and is connected/clipped to the clutch fork.

The outer starts by sitting in a tube or similar item which is connected to the clutch pedal and then it goes through the engine baulk head and the other end is then secured into a fixing on the bell housing.

When the clutch pedal is depressed both parts of the clutch cable actual move and this is done by the pedal moving the outer cable forwards which in turn moves the inner cable back wards because it's fixed in the drivers foot well which then pulls the clutch release fork backwards.

How this happens is when the clutch pedal is depressed the whole cable moves forwards, but as the other end of the outer is secured to the bell housing it causes the cable to bend forwards as it has knower to go which cause the inner as its secured in the foot well to move backwards inside the outer thus moving the clutch release fork backwards.

There is probably a scientific name for this operation but who cares!

Maybe the diagram of the clutch parts will help explain this.

Andy
.