Restoring a coffee table

[AP11]

Hi all,
I'm looking for a bit of advice on how to restore the finish on a coffee table. When I bought it the finish had a really nice sheen to it but over time it has faded and now there are a few water marks etc which I would like to get rid of. What would you guys reccomend using to restore it? Any advice appreciated!

[AP11]

Extra image:

[9xxNick]

It will almost certainly be a lacquer finish. If you search online for "furniture lacquer" you'll find a number of resources explaining about the different types available.

Personally, I'd clean and smooth the surface using T-cut or similar, and then if you want a better finish than that provides, I'd spray the newly-clean surface with a suitable lacquer product.

[Blakeatron]

If you want to lacquer do not even think about tcutting!

I would sand it back to bare timber, careful not to sand through the veneer (might not be but looks like it)

Then either lcquer it, or build a finish with danish oil - 4 coats with a decent drying time between coats

[Simpo Two]

Once you've prepared the surface, the best result short of spraying that I've achieved is varnish applied with a foam rubber 'brush' (pad).



T-Cut is for cars and Danish oil is for breadboards

[loughran]

Fooking hell, don't T-cut it.

[uncinqsix]

Looks like sapele mahogany. Is it solid timber or a veneer? If a veneer, try to avoid anything more than very gentle sanding with fine paper.

The original finish will either be lacquer or shellac. If it comes off with a bit of meths, it's shellac and will be very easy to refinish with more shellac.

[loughran]

Alright, I've gained a bit of composure now.

It looks mid centuary Sveedish/Eames/Heals like to me OP, does it have a ticket on the bottom ? The side rails will be solid, possibly teak, maybe sapele... the top surface is veneered so don't sand through it.

If it were me I'd sand the table down, steady away, with some 240 grit and then wipe on a number of thin coats of satin polyurethane. I use paper kitchen roll. Thin the polyurethane with just a little turps or white spirit and leave each coat to dry before you apply the next. 5 or 6 thin coats should do it.

Then there's this thing you can do with a new polyurethane finish. When it's dry you can rub it. If you get a soft cloth and make a pad you can rub the surface quite firmly and it creates a 'skin'. The heat you generate with the pad smoothes and hardens the surface. It can be hard work, makes you puff and blow but you create a patina and the finish becomes glossy without being shiny.

[9xxNick]

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the problem with using T-cut?

[Simpo Two]

loughran said:

Then there's this thing you can do with a new polyurethane finish. When it's dry you can rub it. If you get a soft cloth and make a pad you can rub the surface quite firmly and it creates a 'skin'. The heat you generate with the pad smoothes and hardens the surface. It can be hard work, makes you puff and blow but you create a patina and the finish becomes glossy without being shiny.

That's what a pro might do but could a beginner do that and get an even finish or just end up with a patchy mess?

I've (re)taken up woodturning recently and get a very good result with 2-3 coats of sanding sealer (shellac based) and wax polish. Wouldn't be very hardwearing for a table though.

[uncinqsix]

9xxNick said:

Pardon my ignorance, but what is the problem with using T-cut?

Sapele has a slightly open grain, so you'll get cutting compound embedded into the surface of the timber, which will look crap. And it's not going to help bring back a finish that's been partially worn off.

I'm not generally a fan of polyurethane myself, as it's a pain to repair if it gets damaged down the track. For a coffee table it does make sense though, especially when thinned 50/50 and wiped on.

I restored a sapele chest of drawers a while ago and finished it with shellac. Looks stunning, but it wouldn't be as durable as poly. Much easier to repair though, to there's pluses and minuses with both finishes.

[9xxNick]

Thanks for replying. I had rather assumed that the original finish was a bit compromised at the surface level rather than to such a degree that the grain was exposed, but I agree that if the finish is so worn that the grain is open then simply polishing it won't work.

[toasty]

If you just want to get rid of coffee cup rings, wire wool will easily remove them.

Much less abrasive than sandpaper. Just polish up after.

[CypSIdders]

You can remove water marks and small dents with a wet cloth and an iron, search youtube to find out how to do it.
Saves much elbow grease and sandpaper!

[AP11]

Thanks for the suggestions all, I didn't realise there would be so many ways of refinishing it! I suspect that it was waxed previously as it didn't last very long and wasn't particularly hard wearing - hence the water staining. I would like to achieve something similar in look but with a bit more longevity.
For info, it's a Gordon Russell and feels like a solid piece of wood to me.

[ali_kat]

If your family just can't get it through their heads to use coasters...

To remove white rings left by wet glasses on wood furniture, mix equal parts vinegar and olive oil and apply it with a soft cloth while moving with the wood grain.

To remove white heat rings left grab a tea towel, some olive oil, and an iron. Lay the towel over the stains, turn on your iron and press it over the stain for 10 secs at a time and it should make quick work of the heat stain. Afterwards you can apply a little olive oil.

I've done both, after my Father spilled coffee on my Mother's antique pie crust coffee table and left it to soak under the coaster rather than mopping it up. Mum never found out

[C&C]

If there are marks that aren't too bad - another thing to try is cutting a walnut in half and rubbing it on the mark.
It's worked pretty well in the past with some marks on an old wooden speaker cabinet.

Simpo Two said:

T-Cut is for cars and Danish oil is for breadboards

I thought the recommendation for breadboards and chopping boards was food grade mineral oil rather than Danish oil?