Repainting kitchen cabinets
Discussion
Has anyone ever gone about repainting kitchen cabinets?
We moved to a house with a great Mark Wilkinson kitchen but our young kids and a few years of hard wear has taken its toll.
The paint is chipped/cracked at the edges and looking tired.
I'm not sure how these kitchens are painted (presumably spray painted rather than with a brush?).
Has anyone refurbished their own kitchen cabinets or had a company come in and do the work?
Any advice or recommendations for companies in the South West?
We moved to a house with a great Mark Wilkinson kitchen but our young kids and a few years of hard wear has taken its toll.
The paint is chipped/cracked at the edges and looking tired.
I'm not sure how these kitchens are painted (presumably spray painted rather than with a brush?).
Has anyone refurbished their own kitchen cabinets or had a company come in and do the work?
Any advice or recommendations for companies in the South West?
We painted our very green MDF kitchen in 2002, still fine although could do with a little refresh.
Fitted some new unpainted doors, MDF primer, paint, re-tile, new work surface. We employed a professional decorator who managed to get an excellent finish. It looks so good no one believes its been painted and insists on opening doors to check!
I think the hardest bit is cleaning the old grease and grime off.
Fitted some new unpainted doors, MDF primer, paint, re-tile, new work surface. We employed a professional decorator who managed to get an excellent finish. It looks so good no one believes its been painted and insists on opening doors to check!
I think the hardest bit is cleaning the old grease and grime off.
My guess is that it will have been sprayed. Not that it really matters unless you want to get an identical finish. The doors will be easily removable for painting but there will also be painted parts that will be difficult to remove, so to achieve a consistent result it might be best to paint by brush, with the fixed parts painted in situ.
If you do that then you can test for paint compatibility and adhesion by painting the inside face of a door.
Farrow and Ball Estate Eggshell is the stuff I used, it's worth the extra.
If you do that then you can test for paint compatibility and adhesion by painting the inside face of a door.
Farrow and Ball Estate Eggshell is the stuff I used, it's worth the extra.
Tip as above to use an oil based paint (tougher, if less easy to use and smelly), and to use a roller. Same goes for staircases and other heavy use areas - oil paints tend to be tougher.
That said, my new kitchen came ready painted in a F&B colour, and they supplied spare tins. It looks like they sprayed and used (water based) exterior grade eggshell, which is obviously tougher than the standard interior eggshell paint. Might be worth doing.
This is a spray job with F&B Mouse's Back in exterior grade eggshell. It looks very good, and so far has resisted knocks and scrapes. This pic doesn't show it, but the wood grain (the doors are oak) shows through well, which is good as it makes it obviously a wood kitchen, rather than MDF etc.
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
That said, my new kitchen came ready painted in a F&B colour, and they supplied spare tins. It looks like they sprayed and used (water based) exterior grade eggshell, which is obviously tougher than the standard interior eggshell paint. Might be worth doing.
This is a spray job with F&B Mouse's Back in exterior grade eggshell. It looks very good, and so far has resisted knocks and scrapes. This pic doesn't show it, but the wood grain (the doors are oak) shows through well, which is good as it makes it obviously a wood kitchen, rather than MDF etc.
Untitled by baconrashers, on FlickrWe removed a Mark Wilkingson 'Cooks Kitchen' last year, this had been hand painted.
We then manufactured a lot of extra units and re-installed into the kitchen after a large extension.
This was hand painted again, and from the outside you couldn't tell the old original pieces from the new.
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
We then manufactured a lot of extra units and re-installed into the kitchen after a large extension.
This was hand painted again, and from the outside you couldn't tell the old original pieces from the new.
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
Edited by Neil - YVM on Tuesday 28th February 11:06
Harry Flashman said:
Tip as above to use an oil based paint (tougher, if less easy to use and smelly), and to use a roller. Same goes for staircases and other heavy use areas - oil paints tend to be tougher.
That said, my new kitchen came ready painted in a F&B colour, and they supplied spare tins. It looks like they sprayed and used (water based) exterior grade eggshell, which is obviously tougher than the standard interior eggshell paint. Might be worth doing.
This is a spray job with F&B Mouse's Back in exterior grade eggshell. It looks very good, and so far has resisted knocks and scrapes.
Untitled by baconrashers, on Flickr
The sprayed finish F&B colour was almost certainly 2 Pack Cellulose paint. (Water based isnt as hard wearing)That said, my new kitchen came ready painted in a F&B colour, and they supplied spare tins. It looks like they sprayed and used (water based) exterior grade eggshell, which is obviously tougher than the standard interior eggshell paint. Might be worth doing.
This is a spray job with F&B Mouse's Back in exterior grade eggshell. It looks very good, and so far has resisted knocks and scrapes.
Untitled by baconrashers, on FlickrTouch up is often standard egg shell as Cellulose needs a hardener and is a bit tricky to apply.
Neil - YVM said:
We removed a Mark Wilkingson 'Cooks Kitchen' last year, this had been hand painted.
We then manufactured a lot of extra units and re-installed into the kitchen after a large extension.
This was hand painted again, and from the outside you couldn't tell the old original pieces from the new.
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
I wonder who chose the lights We then manufactured a lot of extra units and re-installed into the kitchen after a large extension.
This was hand painted again, and from the outside you couldn't tell the old original pieces from the new.
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
Edited by Neil - YVM on Tuesday 28th February 11:06
Neil - YVM said:
The sprayed finish F&B colour was almost certainly 2 Pack Cellulose paint. (Water based isnt as hard wearing)
Touch up is often standard egg shell as Cellulose needs a hardener and is a bit tricky to apply.
Good point Neil.Touch up is often standard egg shell as Cellulose needs a hardener and is a bit tricky to apply.
In which case I suspect is DIY'ing, oil based is the way to go.
Harry Flashman said:
Neil - YVM said:
The sprayed finish F&B colour was almost certainly 2 Pack Cellulose paint. (Water based isnt as hard wearing)
Touch up is often standard egg shell as Cellulose needs a hardener and is a bit tricky to apply.
Good point Neil.Touch up is often standard egg shell as Cellulose needs a hardener and is a bit tricky to apply.
In which case I suspect is DIY'ing, oil based is the way to go.
Harry Flashman said:
Neil - YVM said:
The sprayed finish F&B colour was almost certainly 2 Pack Cellulose paint. (Water based isnt as hard wearing)
Touch up is often standard egg shell as Cellulose needs a hardener and is a bit tricky to apply.
Good point Neil.Touch up is often standard egg shell as Cellulose needs a hardener and is a bit tricky to apply.
In which case I suspect is DIY'ing, oil based is the way to go.
Mark Wilson will most certainly be hand painted, I'd also be pretty certain it would be waterbased paint ..... unless its donkeys years old.
If it is waterbased, give it a good degrease, ie clean, sand back all over with fine sandpaper (do not sand through the existing paint) and repaint.
If your going from a lighter colour to a darker one, or the other way round you may well need to use their primer/undercoat for that specific colour first. No need to use an MDF primer, firstly as I doubt there is any MDF in the door or cabinet frames (other than door panels) and secondly MDF primer is a high build primer more so meant to seal MDF edges ready for top coat...... you will have no exposed edges so its pointless.
So in other words, if your painting simlar colour water based paint on to water based paint you do not require a primer at all (unless it demands it on the tin), just a sand back and off you go... If possible keep the doors on the furniture and paint, as I'd assume MW kitchen doors are fitted individually, ie two doors the same size, may not correctly fit another same sized cabinet very well, so dont mix them up.
. Did ours 2-3yrs ago, it was stained dark wood colour & looked awful. Painted with Dulux Diamond Finish(?) in cream so a big contrast.
The prep is a nightmare, I ended up using a wire brush to get into to the nooks & crannies or you don't get all the grease & dirt & the paint doesn't take properly. The actual painting was easy enough, I only used a roller on one door & brushed the rest, the rollered one is by far the best finish.
Despite a busy house with 2 adults, 2 kids, 3 cats & 2 dogs it has stood up well & apart from some touching up required around a couple of well used door knobs it still looks like it's just been done.
If we ever want a change of colour it will be a lot easier 2nd time around.
The prep is a nightmare, I ended up using a wire brush to get into to the nooks & crannies or you don't get all the grease & dirt & the paint doesn't take properly. The actual painting was easy enough, I only used a roller on one door & brushed the rest, the rollered one is by far the best finish.
Despite a busy house with 2 adults, 2 kids, 3 cats & 2 dogs it has stood up well & apart from some touching up required around a couple of well used door knobs it still looks like it's just been done.
If we ever want a change of colour it will be a lot easier 2nd time around.
Harry Flashman said:
Neil - YVM said:
The sprayed finish F&B colour was almost certainly 2 Pack Cellulose paint. (Water based isnt as hard wearing)
Touch up is often standard egg shell as Cellulose needs a hardener and is a bit tricky to apply.
Good point Neil.Touch up is often standard egg shell as Cellulose needs a hardener and is a bit tricky to apply.
In which case I suspect is DIY'ing, oil based is the way to go.
The standard eggshell is waterbased, and as Wozy68, that would be the option for hand applying.
dmsims said:
Neil - YVM said:
We removed a Mark Wilkingson 'Cooks Kitchen' last year, this had been hand painted.
We then manufactured a lot of extra units and re-installed into the kitchen after a large extension.
This was hand painted again, and from the outside you couldn't tell the old original pieces from the new.
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
I wonder who chose the lights We then manufactured a lot of extra units and re-installed into the kitchen after a large extension.
This was hand painted again, and from the outside you couldn't tell the old original pieces from the new.
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
https://scontent.flhr3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/13...
Edited by Neil - YVM on Tuesday 28th February 11:06
Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff