New Garage Build starts soon - Any final pointers?
Discussion
My new garage build should start in 1-3 months (waiting for neighbours to return from European tour to discuss as knocking down party wall and disrupting their garden a lot!) i'm using a builder for the work. Lots of thoughts about all the elements to think about, but if anyone can think of different options or things I should look into now while I still have time that would be appreciated!
Builder plans to use raft foundation with extra concrete on party wall side due to trees that are there. Walls are insulated brick and light weight block. Plan will be to paint internal walls, I know there are blocks available that are meant to be better to paint. Anyone have any experience of whether its worth bothering? - they still look like a fairly uneven surface.
Electric roller shutter garage door - are insulated doors worth it? Ive seen some with sensors so if it hits something coming down the door stops, again - worth it? Any companies to recommend / avoid?
Plan is to tile the floor with porcelain tiles, any special prep needed? Also, plan is to install a car lift at some point, has anyone installed a lift onto porcelain tiles?
Electrics - Will have external socket for cutting grass at back, may put one near front for pressure washer but could just use extension from back, also several outside lights. Inside lighting - anyone recommend good LED lighting for good general lighting? Will get sockets by work bench, and want one at side for trickle charger but how many others do people find useful?! Anything else I need to consider? Electrician said about running 10mm / 40A armoured cable supply from house to run power/lights/door/lift/ any heater i choose to put in in winter. Will this be enough? May just surface mount armoured cable around wall rather than dig up whole patio?
Worth running a network cable or 2 to garage? What is needed for security camera system?
Can anyone suggest a good thing to go in gutters to stop neighbours overhanging trees blocking them on one side in particular.
Any other suggestions of things to consider especially prior to construction starting would be appreciated!
Builder plans to use raft foundation with extra concrete on party wall side due to trees that are there. Walls are insulated brick and light weight block. Plan will be to paint internal walls, I know there are blocks available that are meant to be better to paint. Anyone have any experience of whether its worth bothering? - they still look like a fairly uneven surface.
Electric roller shutter garage door - are insulated doors worth it? Ive seen some with sensors so if it hits something coming down the door stops, again - worth it? Any companies to recommend / avoid?
Plan is to tile the floor with porcelain tiles, any special prep needed? Also, plan is to install a car lift at some point, has anyone installed a lift onto porcelain tiles?
Electrics - Will have external socket for cutting grass at back, may put one near front for pressure washer but could just use extension from back, also several outside lights. Inside lighting - anyone recommend good LED lighting for good general lighting? Will get sockets by work bench, and want one at side for trickle charger but how many others do people find useful?! Anything else I need to consider? Electrician said about running 10mm / 40A armoured cable supply from house to run power/lights/door/lift/ any heater i choose to put in in winter. Will this be enough? May just surface mount armoured cable around wall rather than dig up whole patio?
Worth running a network cable or 2 to garage? What is needed for security camera system?
Can anyone suggest a good thing to go in gutters to stop neighbours overhanging trees blocking them on one side in particular.
Any other suggestions of things to consider especially prior to construction starting would be appreciated!
I wouldn't even consider building a double skinned insulated garage and not fit an insulated door - choose one with the best u value you can find.
Are you insulating the slab and ceiling/roof?
Sounds like you're going to a lot of expense, why not board and skim the walls too?
Re. the tiling you'll need to wait until the slab is sufficiently dry prior to tiling. Prime the floor with SBR and use a flexible adhesive for porcelain.
I'd go with an outside double socket front and back along with outside lights that you can switch on permanently and also come on via PIR's. Inside, I'd go with a double socket in each corner plus whatever you need over the work bench.
Are you insulating the slab and ceiling/roof?
Sounds like you're going to a lot of expense, why not board and skim the walls too?
Re. the tiling you'll need to wait until the slab is sufficiently dry prior to tiling. Prime the floor with SBR and use a flexible adhesive for porcelain.
I'd go with an outside double socket front and back along with outside lights that you can switch on permanently and also come on via PIR's. Inside, I'd go with a double socket in each corner plus whatever you need over the work bench.
B17NNS said:
I wouldn't even consider building a double skinned insulated garage and not fit an insulated door - choose one with the best u value you can find.
Are you insulating the slab and ceiling/roof?
Sounds like you're going to a lot of expense, why not board and skim the walls too?
Re. the tiling you'll need to wait until the slab is sufficiently dry prior to tiling. Prime the floor with SBR and use a flexible adhesive for porcelain.
I'd go with an outside double socket front and back along with outside lights that you can switch on permanently and also come on via PIR's. Inside, I'd go with a double socket in each corner plus whatever you need over the work bench.
Good point about the door - i imagine a lot of heat is lost through the door! Builder had just planned on using Aluminium roller shutter door.Are you insulating the slab and ceiling/roof?
Sounds like you're going to a lot of expense, why not board and skim the walls too?
Re. the tiling you'll need to wait until the slab is sufficiently dry prior to tiling. Prime the floor with SBR and use a flexible adhesive for porcelain.
I'd go with an outside double socket front and back along with outside lights that you can switch on permanently and also come on via PIR's. Inside, I'd go with a double socket in each corner plus whatever you need over the work bench.
Not planned on insulating the slab, obviously will be a damp proof membrane but wasnt sure how much difference it would make if tiling floor? I know it will all help but at some point i need to stop spending! haha! - Mind you i have no idea on cost. Not initially insulating roof, but plan is that at some future point I can get some Celotex type material and insulate between the trusses then board with ply/plasterboard.
I did consider board and skim walls but done really want to loose any more internal space as already smaller than i'd ideally like (also, dont have unlimited budget so have to stop somewhere!)
Thanks for other thoughts! Plans below so you can see layout.
Some of the 'insulated' roller doors use thin aluminium slats with expanded foam in the void. They aren't particularly robust especially on double garage width spans and they are also surprisingly drafty too.
This style:
http://www.garagedoorsystems.co.uk/insulated-rolle...
Sectional roller doors are far more secure and draft proof - but more expensive.
This style:
http://www.garagedoorsystems.co.uk/insulated-rolle...
Sectional roller doors are far more secure and draft proof - but more expensive.
Reason for using a roller shutter is so it doesn't take up much internal space so I can fit a car lift in so that rules out most other options unfortunately. Also, want to be able to park right against doors so can't have 2 outward opening side hinged doors. Not sure if there is much variety in the way roller garage doors are constructed to make them more secure or better insulated?
Yes, have had planning approved for a while. Only condition was about having to get materials approved (we are in conservation area). Builder says it's up to me but most people don't bother unless they think there will be objections, costs £80 so seems like a money making scheme to me - anyone had experience of this?
Yes, have had planning approved for a while. Only condition was about having to get materials approved (we are in conservation area). Builder says it's up to me but most people don't bother unless they think there will be objections, costs £80 so seems like a money making scheme to me - anyone had experience of this?
Insulation - double skin is advisable, but why insulate ? I'd of thought, you either insulate all surfaces as per a house construction....or none.
Car lift - what internal roof height you looking at achieving ? Have you sourced a car lift yet ?
'Soft' thermalites - is a good point raised earlier.
Garage door - because of the car lift I assume; is there an alternative, ignoring opening outwards doors ?
BA
Car lift - what internal roof height you looking at achieving ? Have you sourced a car lift yet ?
'Soft' thermalites - is a good point raised earlier.
Garage door - because of the car lift I assume; is there an alternative, ignoring opening outwards doors ?
BA
Bikesalot said:
£80 is a lot cheaper than having someone turn up and say all the materials don't conform.
Looking at the build I think £80 is peanuts in comparison to the whole project...
Good news is I have found out it is actually £28! So even better. £80 is not much compared to overall cost but all these things add up! Spoke to council today and process doesn't sounds as bad as builder made it out to be, may be able to get away with just sending photos and specs rather than having to go up there with a load of samples. The conservation officer lives up the road so I imagine will be keeping an eye on it so better do it by the book Looking at the build I think £80 is peanuts in comparison to the whole project...
Timja said:
Builder plans to use raft foundation...
Plan is to tile the floor with porcelain tiles, any special prep needed? Also, plan is to install a car lift at some point, has anyone installed a lift onto porcelain tiles?
You'd want to tile around the lift's posts, not install the posts on top of the tiles. If you're talking about a two-post lift, then definitely make sure the concrete's thick enough/strong enough. Overkill is good...Plan is to tile the floor with porcelain tiles, any special prep needed? Also, plan is to install a car lift at some point, has anyone installed a lift onto porcelain tiles?
Timja said:
Will get sockets by work bench, and want one at side for trickle charger but how many others do people find useful?! Anything else I need to consider?
You can never have too many sockets. Seriously...Timja said:
Worth running a network cable or 2 to garage?
You could, but I'm finding that powerline's working just fine for an outbuilding here.eliot said:
Some of the 'insulated' roller doors use thin aluminium slats with expanded foam in the void. They aren't particularly robust especially on double garage width spans and they are also surprisingly drafty too.
This style:
http://www.garagedoorsystems.co.uk/insulated-rolle...
Sectional roller doors are far more secure and draft proof - but more expensive.
Having had both sectional and roller doors in the past, I would always fit sectional given the choice.This style:
http://www.garagedoorsystems.co.uk/insulated-rolle...
Sectional roller doors are far more secure and draft proof - but more expensive.
garyhun said:
eliot said:
Some of the 'insulated' roller doors use thin aluminium slats with expanded foam in the void. They aren't particularly robust especially on double garage width spans and they are also surprisingly drafty too.
This style:
http://www.garagedoorsystems.co.uk/insulated-rolle...
Sectional roller doors are far more secure and draft proof - but more expensive.
Having had both sectional and roller doors in the past, I would always fit sectional given the choice.This style:
http://www.garagedoorsystems.co.uk/insulated-rolle...
Sectional roller doors are far more secure and draft proof - but more expensive.
Edited by SMB on Tuesday 6th June 16:33
Dave_ST220 said:
I wouldn't use thermalite blocks for the internals of a garage, they chip way too easily.
Good point. I have had problems with those in the past! I will confirm exactly what he is using, the ones he showed me didn't look like thermalite, they were more light weight concrete blocks.big ant said:
Insulation - double skin is advisable, but why insulate ? I'd of thought, you either insulate all surfaces as per a house construction....or none.
Car lift - what internal roof height you looking at achieving ? Have you sourced a car lift yet ?
'Soft' thermalites - is a good point raised earlier.
Garage door - because of the car lift I assume; is there an alternative, ignoring opening outwards doors ?
BA
Take various points about insulation. All or nothing approach really. Want to keep it as regular a temp as possible and avoid condensation etc in winter as well as be warm if I'm working in there in the winter. Will go for insulated door and do roof myself once builder finished.Car lift - what internal roof height you looking at achieving ? Have you sourced a car lift yet ?
'Soft' thermalites - is a good point raised earlier.
Garage door - because of the car lift I assume; is there an alternative, ignoring opening outwards doors ?
BA
Off the top of my head I think we calculated around 3.4m height 2m wide in middle for cars to stack which allows for 1 sports car and 1 normal size car! Planning to get a 4 post, been looking at a couple of lifts recommended on other threads automotech and SJR. But not looked too much yet.
With garage doors I'm looking at SWS SeceuroGlide Excel http://www.sws.co.uk/products/seceuroglide/roller-... I'm not aware (other than ones than go round inside of internal wall) of any options that don't block where a lift would go or don't allow a car right up to the front so probably have to Get roller shutters. Ones above are meant to be quite secure however.
Mine is 7m x 3.5m internal size.
Best things I did:
- Windows down garden side and 2 Velux on one side. Next time I would just put 4 Velux in because so much lights comes through them.
- Sockets - I have 8 double sockets (3 down each side and 2 at the back). Surprising how many you use and they cost peanuts in comparison to the rest of it.
- Alarm
- 8 x 5ft battens. 2 down the middle on a separate switch for when you're just nipping in there. 6 on another switch for when you need more light. It's enough for me.
Things I wish I had done:
- hot and cold water for a sink
- sink a scissor lift into the slab so it is surface mounted.
Best things I did:
- Windows down garden side and 2 Velux on one side. Next time I would just put 4 Velux in because so much lights comes through them.
- Sockets - I have 8 double sockets (3 down each side and 2 at the back). Surprising how many you use and they cost peanuts in comparison to the rest of it.
- Alarm
- 8 x 5ft battens. 2 down the middle on a separate switch for when you're just nipping in there. 6 on another switch for when you need more light. It's enough for me.
Things I wish I had done:
- hot and cold water for a sink
- sink a scissor lift into the slab so it is surface mounted.
Timja said:
My new garage build should start in 1-3 months (waiting for neighbours to return from European tour to discuss as knocking down party wall and disrupting their garden a lot!) i'm using a builder for the work. Lots of thoughts about all the elements to think about, but if anyone can think of different options or things I should look into now while I still have time that would be appreciated!
Builder plans to use raft foundation with extra concrete on party wall side due to trees that are there. Walls are insulated brick and light weight block. Plan will be to paint internal walls, I know there are blocks available that are meant to be better to paint. Anyone have any experience of whether its worth bothering? - they still look like a fairly uneven surface.
Electric roller shutter garage door - are insulated doors worth it? Ive seen some with sensors so if it hits something coming down the door stops, again - worth it? Any companies to recommend / avoid?
Plan is to tile the floor with porcelain tiles, any special prep needed? Also, plan is to install a car lift at some point, has anyone installed a lift onto porcelain tiles?
Electrics - Will have external socket for cutting grass at back, may put one near front for pressure washer but could just use extension from back, also several outside lights. Inside lighting - anyone recommend good LED lighting for good general lighting? Will get sockets by work bench, and want one at side for trickle charger but how many others do people find useful?! Anything else I need to consider? Electrician said about running 10mm / 40A armoured cable supply from house to run power/lights/door/lift/ any heater i choose to put in in winter. Will this be enough? May just surface mount armoured cable around wall rather than dig up whole patio?
Worth running a network cable or 2 to garage? What is needed for security camera system?
Can anyone suggest a good thing to go in gutters to stop neighbours overhanging trees blocking them on one side in particular.
Any other suggestions of things to consider especially prior to construction starting would be appreciated!
As has already been mentioned, look at sectional doors - I used Horman and have been pleased with it. On a related note, also consider running electrics to where the door motor would be placed.Builder plans to use raft foundation with extra concrete on party wall side due to trees that are there. Walls are insulated brick and light weight block. Plan will be to paint internal walls, I know there are blocks available that are meant to be better to paint. Anyone have any experience of whether its worth bothering? - they still look like a fairly uneven surface.
Electric roller shutter garage door - are insulated doors worth it? Ive seen some with sensors so if it hits something coming down the door stops, again - worth it? Any companies to recommend / avoid?
Plan is to tile the floor with porcelain tiles, any special prep needed? Also, plan is to install a car lift at some point, has anyone installed a lift onto porcelain tiles?
Electrics - Will have external socket for cutting grass at back, may put one near front for pressure washer but could just use extension from back, also several outside lights. Inside lighting - anyone recommend good LED lighting for good general lighting? Will get sockets by work bench, and want one at side for trickle charger but how many others do people find useful?! Anything else I need to consider? Electrician said about running 10mm / 40A armoured cable supply from house to run power/lights/door/lift/ any heater i choose to put in in winter. Will this be enough? May just surface mount armoured cable around wall rather than dig up whole patio?
Worth running a network cable or 2 to garage? What is needed for security camera system?
Can anyone suggest a good thing to go in gutters to stop neighbours overhanging trees blocking them on one side in particular.
Any other suggestions of things to consider especially prior to construction starting would be appreciated!
I've gone for a double socket in each corner and an extra double socket by the work bench. In addition to the external socket and socket on the ceiling for door motor. I would also consider making sure that the cable from the fuseboard to the garage is thick enough that you would be able to run an electric car charger from it - this is one area I messed up on. I ran water and ethernet through the ducting to the garage, although they haven't been connected up yet.
I have the securoglide excell that has been mentioned in navy blue. I'm very happy with it.
The only issue has been that some of the slats were scratched because the door expands in the sun and bows. When operated it then scratched against the hood casing. The slats were replaced under warranty at the 1st service.
The only issue has been that some of the slats were scratched because the door expands in the sun and bows. When operated it then scratched against the hood casing. The slats were replaced under warranty at the 1st service.
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