Cutting furniture board for numpties
Discussion
Hi all
I have a 60 x 220 white melamine furniture board, I want to reduce it to 180, it'll sit on 2 cabinets in an alcove to form a desk in a box bedroom, the cut ends will be against the wall.
Taking it somewhere is not an option due to car size, I have several saws a dremel, a workmate etc. How do I make a respectable (doesn't need to be finished) straight cut? Do I need more tools?
I have a 60 x 220 white melamine furniture board, I want to reduce it to 180, it'll sit on 2 cabinets in an alcove to form a desk in a box bedroom, the cut ends will be against the wall.
Taking it somewhere is not an option due to car size, I have several saws a dremel, a workmate etc. How do I make a respectable (doesn't need to be finished) straight cut? Do I need more tools?
Really you need a circular saw, enough room, plus a piece of 2x3 and two clamps
Plenty of YouTube videos - you use the wood and clamps to set a rail at the right offset for your circular saw, and then run it along the rail.
You can also buy track saws but they are expensive. Fine toothed blade on the circular will help reduce chipping on the melamine.
Plenty of YouTube videos - you use the wood and clamps to set a rail at the right offset for your circular saw, and then run it along the rail.
You can also buy track saws but they are expensive. Fine toothed blade on the circular will help reduce chipping on the melamine.
An ordinary hand saw will do perfectly. Mark a straight line and follow it. Use one with a fairly fine blade to avoid splintering the veneer. If you use a circular saw, you will need a very fine blade or it will tear great chunks out.
Edit - wouldn't go near a jigsaw, they're very hard to cut a straight line with. A handsaw or circular is the right tool for the job, but unless you've already got a circular, there's no need to buy one for such a small thing.
Edit - wouldn't go near a jigsaw, they're very hard to cut a straight line with. A handsaw or circular is the right tool for the job, but unless you've already got a circular, there's no need to buy one for such a small thing.
If you use a circular saw, cut it from the underside so the good side will be the top. (track saw would be cut from the top)
Just support both sides of the cut well, you could put a piece of masking tape along the cut line and use a sharp hand saw.
Not sure what use a Dremel is going to be though?
Just support both sides of the cut well, you could put a piece of masking tape along the cut line and use a sharp hand saw.
Not sure what use a Dremel is going to be though?
It is quite hard to cut this without damaging it and the finish you get will depend on the tools & effort.
The foolproof way to get a perfect edge is to clamp it down, clamp a piece of straight wood as a guide, and use a router with a 3mm bit to score the ridge, cutting to a depth of just 1-2mm. Once that is done, you can switch to a hand saw, or ideally a fine toothed circular saw, remembering to support the piece that will fall away adequately
I did this with some glossy kitchen doors - tried cutting them down on my table saw first on the lowest setting with tape on & they chipped horrendously so I worked out the above method. Took ages bit got a 100% perfect finish
The foolproof way to get a perfect edge is to clamp it down, clamp a piece of straight wood as a guide, and use a router with a 3mm bit to score the ridge, cutting to a depth of just 1-2mm. Once that is done, you can switch to a hand saw, or ideally a fine toothed circular saw, remembering to support the piece that will fall away adequately
I did this with some glossy kitchen doors - tried cutting them down on my table saw first on the lowest setting with tape on & they chipped horrendously so I worked out the above method. Took ages bit got a 100% perfect finish
http://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-fatmax-fine-fini...
or if you're on a budget
http://www.screwfix.com/p/c-k-sabretooth-trade-840...
You'll probably get a better finish with the Stanley though. Or just go into your local b&q and get the one with the finest looking teeth.
or if you're on a budget
http://www.screwfix.com/p/c-k-sabretooth-trade-840...
You'll probably get a better finish with the Stanley though. Or just go into your local b&q and get the one with the finest looking teeth.
If you're going to use a router you might as well rough-cut away from the line and then finish the whole edge with the router. Any of the methods propose will do a decent enough job if done properly.
Based on the tools you have I would clamp a length of wood top and bottom against the line then use a handsaw against that guide, it'll keep your right and stop the melamine chipping.
Based on the tools you have I would clamp a length of wood top and bottom against the line then use a handsaw against that guide, it'll keep your right and stop the melamine chipping.
Take it to B&Q and get them to do it. Would probably even work out cheaper to buy a new piece of it (they may not do it with something you've bought in) than it would to buy a new saw. IIRC 10 cuts for free and their saws are professionally maintained so don't chip the coating.
ETA - Must learn to read the post first! Just seen you can't take it somewhere
ETA - Must learn to read the post first! Just seen you can't take it somewhere
You could also consider using some kind of edge finish to cover up any slight defect in the cut e.g.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/worktop-edging-end-cap-a...
Make sure you measure the alcove carefully, the walls might not be square or even flat.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/worktop-edging-end-cap-a...
Make sure you measure the alcove carefully, the walls might not be square or even flat.
Toltec said:
You could also consider using some kind of edge finish to cover up any slight defect in the cut e.g.
http://www.screwfix.com/p/worktop-edging-end-cap-a...
Make sure you measure the alcove carefully, the walls might not be square or even flat.
A bit of caulk or white silicone might look neater. Conti board is only 15mm thick so he would need to buy a hacksaw and know how to cut the aluminium capping. http://www.screwfix.com/p/worktop-edging-end-cap-a...
Make sure you measure the alcove carefully, the walls might not be square or even flat.
Pheo said:
Really you need a circular saw, enough room, plus a piece of 2x3 and two clamps
Plenty of YouTube videos - you use the wood and clamps to set a rail at the right offset for your circular saw, and then run it along the rail.
You can also buy track saws but they are expensive. Fine toothed blade on the circular will help reduce chipping on the melamine.
I'd do the same. I'd definitely use masking tape as well though. Plenty of YouTube videos - you use the wood and clamps to set a rail at the right offset for your circular saw, and then run it along the rail.
You can also buy track saws but they are expensive. Fine toothed blade on the circular will help reduce chipping on the melamine.
(I'd probably also use a spirit level instead of the wood, neither here nor there if the woods straight though!)
hyphen said:
Stop it you 
They had the Lidl versions in a few week ago for £70 ish, apparently you can use the festool tracks with them. as well.
I took the 'plunge' just before Christmas and got the Festool as I had a monster kitchen to fit. Utter utter sorcery. Don't know how I lived without it. Can't see any issues with buying a cheaper Lidl tool and putting a decent blade in it.They had the Lidl versions in a few week ago for £70 ish, apparently you can use the festool tracks with them. as well.
paulrockliffe said:
If you're going to use a router you might as well rough-cut away from the line and then finish the whole edge with the router. Any of the methods propose will do a decent enough job if done properly.
Based on the tools you have I would clamp a length of wood top and bottom against the line then use a handsaw against that guide, it'll keep your right and stop the melamine chipping.
Didn't think of that, would have saved me some time!Based on the tools you have I would clamp a length of wood top and bottom against the line then use a handsaw against that guide, it'll keep your right and stop the melamine chipping.
As an aside - I personally don't have the skill to cut a board to +-1mm with a handsaw
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