Best type of frontdoor
Discussion
any and all doors are only as solid as the locks you put on them. Given the choice, solid wood and Mortis and deadbolts are what I'd go for. Yale locks are pointless from a security standpoint.
UPVC doors with 5 point locks are good, as long as you lock them and keep the keys away from the door. (Key holes inside and out, not the twist type on the inside) If you don't lock them properly(with the key, every time) they are essentially useless.
UPVC doors with 5 point locks are good, as long as you lock them and keep the keys away from the door. (Key holes inside and out, not the twist type on the inside) If you don't lock them properly(with the key, every time) they are essentially useless.
5 lever deadlocks are the hardest and noisiest to break into.
I don't see any issues with thumbturn barrels like the previous poster suggested. I would always have them on any multilock or dead lock. For ease of use and fire safety.
If you go for wood, beef up the frame as much as possible, it's always the frame that gives. Unless you have London bars fitted.
I don't see any issues with thumbturn barrels like the previous poster suggested. I would always have them on any multilock or dead lock. For ease of use and fire safety.
If you go for wood, beef up the frame as much as possible, it's always the frame that gives. Unless you have London bars fitted.
http://www.solidor.co.uk/
Get one of these, great quality, great security, and looks great IMO. Had one fitted myself and it's been great!
Get one of these, great quality, great security, and looks great IMO. Had one fitted myself and it's been great!
Wood looks better than composite, that alone would make my choice.
If risk is that high, you can get wooden doors with steel sheet sandwiched in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KK8_iHKRXAQ But you shouldn't really need it unless you are running a weed farm!
With regards to locks, use 3, one a third down, the second a third up from bottom and a latch in the middle. Also London bars/Birmingham bars/hinge bolts will also help along with laminating any glazing in the door.
There was a recent thread on here about doors, where one of the resident door makers posted a full length multi-point lock that he uses.
If risk is that high, you can get wooden doors with steel sheet sandwiched in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KK8_iHKRXAQ But you shouldn't really need it unless you are running a weed farm!
With regards to locks, use 3, one a third down, the second a third up from bottom and a latch in the middle. Also London bars/Birmingham bars/hinge bolts will also help along with laminating any glazing in the door.
There was a recent thread on here about doors, where one of the resident door makers posted a full length multi-point lock that he uses.
Edited by hyphen on Tuesday 5th September 09:03
Whichever type you go for just make sure it has three star anti-snap cylinders. I had a composite door fitted this year and it came with standard cylinders, thus eliminating the need for a key to open the door and making the extra security of the heavier door redundant.
Five minute job to switch the cylinders for decent ones when I realised. They about £30 iirc.
Five minute job to switch the cylinders for decent ones when I realised. They about £30 iirc.
Have a wooden one. Spec Meranti or simlar timber wise. I know it seems bizarre to say this, but don't get too hung up on security. A traditional 5 lever mortice lock & deadlock and a Yale (for easy daytime at home getting in and out) with a slide bolt top and btm to lock from inside at night for extra security is more than sufficient. If it has any glass in it, just make sure you dont leave the key in the lock over night.
Its all well and good making your front door impregnable. But then it starts to cost and generally is not needed. If properly fitted a mortice look would need some servere force to break through, and I cant see a thief wanting to make that much noise..... he'd pull the glass beads out head through your window instead.
Its all well and good making your front door impregnable. But then it starts to cost and generally is not needed. If properly fitted a mortice look would need some servere force to break through, and I cant see a thief wanting to make that much noise..... he'd pull the glass beads out head through your window instead.
Daggerpie said:
We're looking at getting a Hormann when our build finished, expensive but very nice from the examples I've seen.
I have a Hormann front door and would recommend them. Made from steel and nearly 3" thick, it's certainly a robust item.Relatively expensive compared to some of the cheap composite options like solidoor or rockdoor though.
richatnort said:
http://www.solidor.co.uk/
Get one of these, great quality, great security, and looks utter s
te IMO. Had one fitted myself and it's been great!
EFAGet one of these, great quality, great security, and looks utter s
te IMO. Had one fitted myself and it's been great! Not to mention the price people pay for these things
rufusgti said:
I don't see any issues with thumbturn barrels like the previous poster suggested.
He asked for security not ease of use. The thumb turns take seconds to breach. I don't disagree that they're handy, and as I said 5 lever deadlocks are good, but you have to lock them properly or they are just as useless as a Yale.
We just bought a bouse with an old solid wood door that we will restore.
It has a 5 lever mortice lock in it (a Chubb), but I will be adding more security.
Are the Banham nightlatches (ubiquitous in London) and good? Had one in my flat, but security there was less of an issue as it is upstairs and there is a street door too. Or is a much cheaper version elsewhere a better idea.
It seems that the main advantage of these Banhams is a key that is hard to copy. Is the lock itself any good? It's certainly pricey...frankly if I lose my keys, I'd get the locks replaced anyway. It seems that all you need to copy a Banham key is an account with Banham. ASL are worse - you just order the keys online using the number on them. It's just a scam so that they have to supply the keys, rather than you just getting copies cut yourself.
http://www.sdslondon.co.uk/banham-security-locks/b...
It has a 5 lever mortice lock in it (a Chubb), but I will be adding more security.
Are the Banham nightlatches (ubiquitous in London) and good? Had one in my flat, but security there was less of an issue as it is upstairs and there is a street door too. Or is a much cheaper version elsewhere a better idea.
It seems that the main advantage of these Banhams is a key that is hard to copy. Is the lock itself any good? It's certainly pricey...frankly if I lose my keys, I'd get the locks replaced anyway. It seems that all you need to copy a Banham key is an account with Banham. ASL are worse - you just order the keys online using the number on them. It's just a scam so that they have to supply the keys, rather than you just getting copies cut yourself.
http://www.sdslondon.co.uk/banham-security-locks/b...
I like the way they look externally with the lock pull and that is why i chose them, as it is something I use so much and seen by so many was worth the stupid price to me.
I fitted myself, don't think they are anymore or worse secure than the alternatives - burglaries of ordinary homes are not done after careful planning by master criminals after all.
With regards to keycutting, you register your name/address with them when you buy the lock and you also get a card with it. So either proof of identity or being in possession of the card will get you a new key.
I fitted myself, don't think they are anymore or worse secure than the alternatives - burglaries of ordinary homes are not done after careful planning by master criminals after all.
With regards to keycutting, you register your name/address with them when you buy the lock and you also get a card with it. So either proof of identity or being in possession of the card will get you a new key.
Edited by hyphen on Tuesday 5th September 12:58
B17NNS said:
Can't go wrong with Solidor. However as someone else said, the thief will just take the path of least resistance and use a window. If they want to get in they will.
Burglars (for the majority) are lazy, rob locally and use the rear anyway Your much better off spending the money on other known deterrent factors
dmsims said:
Your much better off spending the money on other known deterrent factors
True. Security should be like an onion, many layers. Make you house the least attractive in the street to the burglar. Lighting on PIR's. Cameras (fake work as a deterrent), alarm (again just a dummy box is a deterrent).Gassing Station | Homes, Gardens and DIY | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff