Electrical supply for current-hungry appliances...
Discussion
Thinking about acquiring some appliances which seem to need either a 240v 25-amp single-phase connection (never heard of these?!) or 415v 3-phase... anyone got any ideas how I go about getting these supplies installed? I can't find any information at all on the 25-amp connection, and I'm assuming plugging it into a 13-amp box is just going to trip the circuit breakers immediately.
Probably best to get a sparky to fit a 32a MCB to your consumer unit and wire direct to the appliance from that. Assuming there is space, capacity etc.
25a will just be the current draw of the appliance, not a specific type of supply that exists. You'll need a supply that can provide at least this, commonly 32a.
25a will just be the current draw of the appliance, not a specific type of supply that exists. You'll need a supply that can provide at least this, commonly 32a.
Edited by samdale on Thursday 9th November 20:18
ker straight in.Please don't put it straight into an isolator. To the best of my knowledge it's meant to go:
32a MCB >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> 40A isolator >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> 40A outlet >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> appliance
It's because people turn off the isolator, open it up and take out the appliance, all the while there's a live feed with 32a.
32a MCB >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> 40A isolator >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> 40A outlet >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> appliance
It's because people turn off the isolator, open it up and take out the appliance, all the while there's a live feed with 32a.
inabox said:
Please don't put it straight into an isolator. To the best of my knowledge it's meant to go:
32a MCB >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> 40A isolator >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> 40A outlet >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> appliance
It's because people turn off the isolator, open it up and take out the appliance, all the while there's a live feed with 32a.
As you clearly don't know what you are talking about, you should stop giving out advice..32a MCB >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> 40A isolator >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> 40A outlet >> 4 or 6mm² cable >> appliance
It's because people turn off the isolator, open it up and take out the appliance, all the while there's a live feed with 32a.
OP..
Just contact a local registered electrician who can come and see the place and talk to you about the possibilities.
Edited by Alucidnation on Thursday 9th November 22:22
Alucidnation said:
As you clearly don't know what you are talking about, you should stop giving out advice..
Sorry, not to take this off-topic, but what have I posted thats incorrect? I only ask because this is how my boss does it and how I've been taught at college, I've only got 6 months left of a 4 year course and would rather not go out and do the wrong thing. (other than it should be 45a isolator and outlet, blame late nights, sorry).Edited by Alucidnation on Thursday 9th November 22:22
Cheers
Edited by inabox on Friday 10th November 07:22
inabox said:
Alucidnation said:
As you clearly don't know what you are talking about, you should stop giving out advice..
Sorry, not to take this off-topic, but what have I posted thats incorrect? I only ask because this is how my boss does it and how I've been taught at college, I've only got 6 months left of a 4 year course and would rather not go out and do the wrong thing. (other than it should be 45a isolator and outlet, blame late nights, sorry).Edited by Alucidnation on Thursday 9th November 22:22
Cheers
Edited by inabox on Friday 10th November 07:22
It's no different to getting a cooker point or shower supply installed - as above, mcb in fusebox, chunky cable to utility (cable size depends on route, length, electricians testicle diameter etc), cooker/shower type 45A switch at appliance location, then appliance hardwired to a cooker point outlet or similar (or on some fancy industrial type plug and socket if you want to regularly move it) with some high amp multicore flex - if it exists - as the machine may vibrate afaik solid core may harden and fracture?
Trickiest and probably most expensive bit is the work involved in cable routing - if you can get access underfloor or route through a ceiling void you've cracked it. As already said, new supply would be silly money, as would 3 phase.
Have you considered a gas powered dryer - you could get a big laundrette type machine that only needs a 13A plug to spin the drum.
But then you'd need a gas supply...
Trickiest and probably most expensive bit is the work involved in cable routing - if you can get access underfloor or route through a ceiling void you've cracked it. As already said, new supply would be silly money, as would 3 phase.
Have you considered a gas powered dryer - you could get a big laundrette type machine that only needs a 13A plug to spin the drum.
But then you'd need a gas supply...
RoverP6B said:
How doable is a 415v 3-phase supply?
If you have three phases running to your house, expensive. If you don't, very expensive. 
As others have said, doing it single phase is much the same as wiring up an electric shower. It will need its own breaker in the consumer unit, then a dedicated (big, can't remember the numbers) cable running from there to the appliance. Then the appliance can either be socketed (using a high-current socket, standard 3-pin plugs are capped at 13amps) or hard-wired into an isolator switch. I wired up both our en-suite shower and garage compressor in this way, it's only really as hard as getting the cable through.
Edited by kambites on Friday 10th November 09:33
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