Preventing back doors being smashed in?
Discussion
Once you've stopped tittering, I wonder if I could get some security advice.
An elderly relative lives in an area that has recently had a spate of burglaries.
These have all involved kicking in exterior doors. Is there any way an existing door can be altered to make this more difficult, or what would be the options for a new more secure door?
An elderly relative lives in an area that has recently had a spate of burglaries.
These have all involved kicking in exterior doors. Is there any way an existing door can be altered to make this more difficult, or what would be the options for a new more secure door?
These are pretty good and very easy to install:
Key on the inside of course.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/era-brass-concealed-doo...
And these in the door jamb - again, easy to install.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p30917?r=googlesh...
Key on the inside of course.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/era-brass-concealed-doo...
And these in the door jamb - again, easy to install.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p30917?r=googlesh...
NDA said:
These are pretty good and very easy to install:
Key on the inside of course.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/era-brass-concealed-doo...
And these in the door jamb - again, easy to install.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p30917?r=googlesh...
I'm going to fit some of the concealed bolts on some of interior doors too.Key on the inside of course.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/era-brass-concealed-doo...
And these in the door jamb - again, easy to install.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p30917?r=googlesh...
How does the second thing work?
The most likely to be kicked in is a upvc door, with enough force the beading holding the bottom panel in place will just give way. You could silicone the beading or for belt and braces screw the beading into the frame.
Of course if it's not a UPVC door then ignore all that.
Oh and make sure anti snap barrels are fitted.
Of course if it's not a UPVC door then ignore all that.
Oh and make sure anti snap barrels are fitted.
Got something like this on our back door
https://www.screwfix.com/p/era-brass-concealed-doo...
Top and bottom, plus the normal lock in the middle. I imagine the door and frame would go together if it was bashed in.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/era-brass-concealed-doo...
Top and bottom, plus the normal lock in the middle. I imagine the door and frame would go together if it was bashed in.
Rollin said:
NDA said:
These are pretty good and very easy to install:
Key on the inside of course.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/era-brass-concealed-doo...
And these in the door jamb - again, easy to install.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p30917?r=googlesh...
I'm going to fit some of the concealed bolts on some of interior doors too.Key on the inside of course.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/era-brass-concealed-doo...
And these in the door jamb - again, easy to install.
https://www.toolstation.com/shop/p30917?r=googlesh...
How does the second thing work?
I've changed my locks to anti snap/bump type but the weakness is still the bottom panel in the back door, a house a few doors down from me got broken into this way, one kick in the middle of the panel and they cave in. They need to design a reinforcing bar that goes up inside the door frame to prevent this. Either that or an extremely sharp spike on the inside pointing outwards.
Rollin said:
I'm going to fit some of the concealed bolts on some of interior doors too.
How does the second thing work?
Years ago a friend fitted interior door bolts and used them when he went on holiday. Returned home to find the house burgled and the interior doors trashed as they simply kicked them in until something gave way. Frames were damaged as well. His conclusion was to not try to slow a burglar down once they were in unless it was for personal safety - sounded logical to me.How does the second thing work?
A wood door is a reasonable start though it would depend on how it's built. If a panel will go through or the door comes apart or splits it doesn't matter what's holding the bits at the side to the frame. Doors can be reinforced but it's not pretty. Also depends what people are prepared to do - stopping them cutting through is a different game compared to levers or impacts.
Frames can be ripped out in their entirety; depends on construction & how retained. Old wooden frame with the wall built around it is a lot more likely to stay in than something uPVC would be!
Locks are normally a weaker point than hinges, assuming a decent number and size of hinge and an inward opening door. Pins provide a bit of reinforcement (sometimes a lot) but are more to do with stopping the door being lift out of the frame.
Night latches are more likely to rip free than mortice locks, though for the latter it does depend on how good the mortice is and how much meat you chop out of the door & frame when fitting. Chunky latches will take a reasonable amount of abuse. Usually a good idea to have one of each. (Re. locks, I have a nice chunky vintage Ingersoll on my door (but are ££££ if you find one), Kibb locks looked interesting too if you find one)
Sliding bolts on the face of the door don't usually have much holding them in place so pop off. Concealed bolts at least have wood around them.
'Birmingham' or 'London' bar or similar reinforcement bits can be bought and added.
Frames can be ripped out in their entirety; depends on construction & how retained. Old wooden frame with the wall built around it is a lot more likely to stay in than something uPVC would be!
Locks are normally a weaker point than hinges, assuming a decent number and size of hinge and an inward opening door. Pins provide a bit of reinforcement (sometimes a lot) but are more to do with stopping the door being lift out of the frame.
Night latches are more likely to rip free than mortice locks, though for the latter it does depend on how good the mortice is and how much meat you chop out of the door & frame when fitting. Chunky latches will take a reasonable amount of abuse. Usually a good idea to have one of each. (Re. locks, I have a nice chunky vintage Ingersoll on my door (but are ££££ if you find one), Kibb locks looked interesting too if you find one)
Sliding bolts on the face of the door don't usually have much holding them in place so pop off. Concealed bolts at least have wood around them.
'Birmingham' or 'London' bar or similar reinforcement bits can be bought and added.
IMO it's more important to make the door look like it can't be kicked in than actually stop it from being kicked in.
If wooden door, screw metal plates across it. If UPVC door, how about a grated door in front of it to lock up at night? You can get ones that are completely removable as well. They just look a bit rubbish!
If wooden door, screw metal plates across it. If UPVC door, how about a grated door in front of it to lock up at night? You can get ones that are completely removable as well. They just look a bit rubbish!
Rollin said:
I'm going to fit some of the concealed bolts on some of interior doors too.
How does the second thing work?
The bolt is fitted near the hinges of the door. The bolts permanently protrude and mate with the recess drilled in the frame. They are there to prevent a door being kicked in by the hinges.How does the second thing work?
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