Shower cubicle tanking / joints question - quick help please

[artois7]

Hi all,

Been googling for ages and I can't get a concrete answer on this.

I've built a shower cubicle using the Wickes tile panel stuff (aqua panel equivalent) and I'm due to start tanking it.

I cannot get a clear answer whether the joins and internal corners need to be sealed using adhesive and tape, and THEN use tape again with the tanking kit, or if the tanking kit is supposed to be in place of the initial layer of tape?

All guides I can see on youtube just use the tanking kit tape in the corners but this would provide no structural strength which you would gain from using tape and tile adhesive?

Very confused!

[B17NNS]

I personally don't use cement boards. They're not waterproof anyway. Tanked plasterboard is waterproof. It's also cheaper.

If you're invested in the Wickes system I'd be tempted to see it through and use their tape/adhesive.

Then tank.

I tend to us the Mapei kit from Screwfix.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/mapei-shower-waterproof...

[artois7]

So which order would you go in:

a) Seal all joints and corners with the Wickes tape and tile adhesive, then using the tanking kit, apply a second layer of tape to each join and corner bedding into the tanking paste

b) Seal all joints and corners with the Wickes tape and tile adhesive, then just apply the tanking paste over the addy'd joints

c) Seal the joints and corners with the tape that comes with the tanking kit, and apply the paste to that?

Sat here trying to find the answers so I can go to the shop, get what I need and crack on for the eve!

[B17NNS]

Complete the process as per Wickes instructions whatever they may be.

Then it's time to tank.

If using the Mapei kit you paint the tanking wherever you are applying tape and bed the tape into it. Then paint over the tape and all areas to be tanked.

I usually do two coats of paint.

[Risotto]

I use Aquapanel and a tanking kit. From memory I boarded and taped all joins with the corresponding blue (80mm?) scrim tape and tile adhesive, then I rolled on this tanking kit and tiled the walls. There was no additional tape and there's been no problem since.

As for Aquapanel and tanking being overkill, for the sake of £50 is it really worth compromising? I admit that there's little chance of water from the shower head finding its way through a tanking kit but there's a not insignificant chance that a leak from a shower valve could find its way to any plasterboard behind the tanking kit. I used cement board and a tanking kit in the family bathroom and insisted that the builder who did the en suite did likewise. After much muttering about tanked plasterboard being sufficient, he agreed. A week later we discovered a leak on the en suite shower valve that had saturated the inside of the stud wall - so had we not used Aquapanel, the builder would have had to re-tile as well as fix the leak.

Edited by Risotto on Wednesday 21st March 00:31

[austinsmirk]

go on you tube and look for

akw
impey
Nicols and clarke for shower/wetroom installation/training videos

[artois7]

Risotto said:

I use Aquapanel and a tanking kit. From memory I boarded and taped all joins with the corresponding blue (80mm?) scrim tape and tile adhesive, then I rolled on this tanking kit and tiled the walls. There was no additional tape and there's been no problem since.

As for Aquapanel and tanking being overkill, for the sake of £50 is it really worth compromising? I admit that there's little chance of water from the shower head finding its way through a tanking kit but there's a not insignificant chance that a leak from a shower valve could find its way to any plasterboard behind the tanking kit. I used cement board and a tanking kit in the family bathroom and insisted that the builder who did the en suite did likewise. After much muttering about tanked plasterboard being sufficient, he agreed. A week later we discovered a leak on the en suite shower valve that had saturated the inside of the stud wall - so had we not used Aquapanel, the builder would have had to re-tile as well as fix the leak.

Cool - I couldn't make my mind up last night so I picked up the tanking kit and an additional role of aqua panel tape, but using two layers of tape doesn't seem right - especially as you'll never get both layers totally flat.

I think what I might do is do the structural joints with tape and tile adhesive for strength, and do the internal corners by pushing the tape into the tanking brush on stuff. Then I can return the aqua panel tape as it seems unnecessary.

[neth27]

Fix the boards in place then just use the tape what is supplied with the tanking kit.
Using the tape and adhesive is only for waterproof boards, yours aren’t. So just use the tanking kit.
https://www.tilersforums.co.uk/threads/once-and-fo...
John

Edited by neth27 on Wednesday 21st March 12:57

Edited by neth27 on Wednesday 21st March 12:58

Edited by neth27 on Wednesday 21st March 13:09

[guffhoover]

Sorry to hijack but..

I have recently moved into a flat that has a shower cubicle around aqua board panels. The previous owner was an old lady so there is a shower seat and handles screwed into the aqua board.

I want to take the granny stuff out but it will leave holes through the aqua and plaster board behind.

Any ideas on how to seal / cover once the bits are removed? Silicon is a no go as it will look st and go mouldy in the end.

[artois7]

neth27 said:

Fix the boards in place then just use the tape what is supplied with the tanking kit.
Using the tape and adhesive is only for waterproof boards, yours aren’t. So just use the tanking kit.
https://www.tilersforums.co.uk/threads/once-and-fo...
John

Aware the boards aren't a water barrier, but the boards still need some structural rigidity between them, which I don't think the tanking kit will provide?

Unless the tanking stuff dries rock solid like tile adhesive?

[B17NNS]

artois7 said:

Aware the boards aren't a water barrier, but the boards still need some structural rigidity between them, which I don't think the tanking kit will provide

Are they not secured to joists where they meet?

If you were jointing plasterboard for example you'd just bed mesh scrim in the multi finish.

[neth27]

B17NNS said:

Are they not secured to joists where they meet?

If you were jointing plasterboard for example you'd just bed mesh scrim in the multi finish.

As this, all the edges of the boards should be sat on the timber stud work and noggings.

John

[DocJock]

guffhoover said:

Sorry to hijack but..

I have recently moved into a flat that has a shower cubicle around aqua board panels. The previous owner was an old lady so there is a shower seat and handles screwed into the aqua board.

I want to take the granny stuff out but it will leave holes through the aqua and plaster board behind.

Any ideas on how to seal / cover once the bits are removed? Silicon is a no go as it will look st and go mouldy in the end.

You'll never hide the repair so one method is to fill the remaining plugs with silicone and then a mirror screw with the chromed dome cover.

[B17NNS]

guffhoover said:

Sorry to hijack but..

Any spare tiles?

[Andehh]

As above, go full belt & braces tanking it.

I then grouted it with a 1:1 mix of grout additive + water, which gives extra strength, flexibility and *water resistance* AND then liberally sprayed the whole area with LTP grout sealant stuff.

Even 2 years on the jasmine coloured grout doesn't discolour as it does when wet and not a spot of grout discolouration through mould or equiv.

[guffhoover]

DocJock said:

You'll never hide the repair so one method is to fill the remaining plugs with silicone and then a mirror screw with the chromed dome cover.

Thanks. Didn't know about 'mirror screws' they look worth a go.

[artois7]

neth27 said:

As this, all the edges of the boards should be sat on the timber stud work and noggings.

John

Of course. This is the problem with building something ages ago and then moving on to the points - all joints are supported by the stud work, so I think I'm worrying for nothing.