Ask a plumber/heating ‘engineer’ anything
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If installing a new pressurised heating system from a Combi would you use plastic with push fit, plastic with solvent weld, copper, or perhaps a combination of all three ?
As a supplementary question. 22mm flow and return from the boiler but how many rads can you reasonably feed with one 15mm branch off the 22 mm or does it perhaps depend on the size of the rads.
As a supplementary question. 22mm flow and return from the boiler but how many rads can you reasonably feed with one 15mm branch off the 22 mm or does it perhaps depend on the size of the rads.
Ledaig said:
RicksAlfas said:
I believe the logic is you spend thousands replacing it with a snazzy new boiler, save 5% on your gas usage but then buy another one in ten years because they don't last as they are "built to close tolerances to make them very efficient".
Which is exactly why I don't want to replace the existing one, making the switch would not generate savings in efficiency to cover the cost.
steve-V8s said:
If installing a new pressurised heating system from a Combi would you use plastic with push fit, plastic with solvent weld, copper, or perhaps a combination of all three ?
As a supplementary question. 22mm flow and return from the boiler but how many rads can you reasonably feed with one 15mm branch off the 22 mm or does it perhaps depend on the size of the rads.
Most people use a mix in retrofits. Almost all new builds are done entirely in pushfit outside of the boiler/airing cupboard, and have been for 20 years. I try and do as much as possible in copper but sometimes push fit just makes a run so much easier. As a supplementary question. 22mm flow and return from the boiler but how many rads can you reasonably feed with one 15mm branch off the 22 mm or does it perhaps depend on the size of the rads.
Fag packet no more than 3 rads off 15. I’ve seen entire houses piped in 15mm mains that work fine. There’s a whole estate near me where the systems are done in 8mm.
Ledaig said:
What's the rough percentage of open flue systems still in use?
Only asking as we had a plumber come round to service ours last week, who took one look, laughed and said "I don't service them" (closely followed by the 'buy a new boiler' sales pitch).
Yes it's old, but simple in operation and works so why bother replacing!
Used to service loads and loads. Probably do less than 10 a year now. Only asking as we had a plumber come round to service ours last week, who took one look, laughed and said "I don't service them" (closely followed by the 'buy a new boiler' sales pitch).
Yes it's old, but simple in operation and works so why bother replacing!
They are reliable, but as low as 50-60% efficient (aka, 50/40p in the £ wasted as opposed to a new boiler which wastes ~8p in the £). When combined with modern controls, the savings add up quickly. They’re also slow compared to a modern boiler, and you’re on borrowed time with the cast iron hex’s now.
I used to tell my customers to keep them but they’re either choosing to upgrade (the long guarantees on new boilers are helping), the cast iron hex’s are finally giving up or the customers are dying before the boiler does 😃
LocoBlade said:
Why do certain plumbers start "Ask me anything" threads on forums then go AWOL and not answer a single question for 3 days? 
It's typical of the breed in my experience.It is quite amusing how forum life reflects real life here, next it'll be 'I was on a call out mate'.
w
king myself off in the back of my van.
Hi, hope you'll be able to advise. My towel rail won't work when central heating is on. All other radiators are working in the house, I bled the rail as well and turned the control either way. Still not heating.
The attached picture is of the valve. Does anyone know how to open this TRV? I'm think the pin might be stuck.
Thanks on advance for help
Ostaf said:
Hi, hope you'll be able to advise. My towel rail won't work when central heating is on. All other radiators are working in the house, I bled the rail as well and turned the control either way. Still not heating.
The attached picture is of the valve. Does anyone know how to open this TRV? I'm think the pin might be stuck.
silentbrown said:
Looks like an electric towel rail to me. Which would explain why it's not working with the CH...
There's a pipe coming out of the wall too though so I think it should work with both.To the owner, ensure the valve is opened up (it looks like a manual valve to me; too small to be a TRV).
MJNewton said:
silentbrown said:
Looks like an electric towel rail to me. Which would explain why it's not working with the CH...
There's a pipe coming out of the wall too though so I think it should work with both.To the owner, ensure the valve is opened up (it looks like a manual valve to me; too small to be a TRV).
silentbrown said:
Looks like an electric towel rail to me. Which would explain why it's not working with the CH...
It is electric as well. It's dual fuel. Was working with central heating last winter. I think the pin inside the valve might be stuck (although the radiator is 1 year old), but I don't know how to get to it.Any other ideas?
Jambo85 said:
Agreed - also check the valve on the other end. Correct procedure with these combined electric/CH towel rails is to close both valves for summer (electric) use in order that air doesn't sneak in and cause the element to overheat, so if that's been done correctly then you'll need to open both ends.
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