How to install fencing upright?
Discussion
I'm fencing part of the garden sometime soon. I've got all the necessary wooden posts and panels, and planning to erect 
the blasted thing something like this:
Dig hole
Layer of hardcore for drainage
Post in
Dry mix around base of post
Leave to set
Then fix the panels once the concrete has set
Now, I'm fairly happy to get the horizontal level right, but I'm flummoxed about how to get the posts vertical in two planes. Does each one have to be propped from 2 sides until the concrete has set? Do I just have to live with a garden that resembles a wooden meccano set for a week?
the blasted thing something like this:Dig hole
Layer of hardcore for drainage
Post in
Dry mix around base of post
Leave to set
Then fix the panels once the concrete has set
Now, I'm fairly happy to get the horizontal level right, but I'm flummoxed about how to get the posts vertical in two planes. Does each one have to be propped from 2 sides until the concrete has set? Do I just have to live with a garden that resembles a wooden meccano set for a week?
If you use something like Postmix/Postcrete, you will only need to sprag the posts for a few minutes. Normal concrete will take a few hours, then you can remove the sprags.
Don't try to put the panels in place until the concrete is set, leave it a bit longer if high winds are forecast.
Don't try to put the panels in place until the concrete is set, leave it a bit longer if high winds are forecast.
You can buy a post level for a few quid. Its shaped 90 degrees as it sits on the corner of the post. You can get a level with a horizontal level. Keep the hole nice and square in shape and go down 2ft. Dont bother with the hardcore. Put post in place then add some water. Add the postcrete and then nore water. Mix. Add more water then another bag of postcrete. Add more water again and mix. Check the levels then leave it for 20 minutes. Done
use a hole digger (basically a big screw) to form the hole for the post - it keeps it small, with vertical edges and helps immeasurably
when you set the post in the ground use some large bits of rubble in the hole to prop the post, this will help you get it square and plumb
once ready just tip in the concrete mix
simple
when you set the post in the ground use some large bits of rubble in the hole to prop the post, this will help you get it square and plumb
once ready just tip in the concrete mix
simple
I wouldnt bother with post mix unless you are prepared to use a wood preserver on a regular basis. over the years the posts will rot at the level of the set mix, one windy night and hey presto the whole line of fencing is down.
The metal fence post spikes are pretty good and alot easier to use than the traditional post mix method. they also let the fence flex a little in high winds so you dont lose the lot
The metal fence post spikes are pretty good and alot easier to use than the traditional post mix method. they also let the fence flex a little in high winds so you dont lose the lot
gareth_r said:
Sort of on topic... (EDIT: and related to the simultaneous post above )
Is it worth concreting in a metal post anchor to make it easier to replace the post when it rots?
No need to. The beauty of using metal posts is that they dont hold water so the base of the post wont rot)Is it worth concreting in a metal post anchor to make it easier to replace the post when it rots?
Edited by gareth_r on Wednesday 8th April 12:01
I would certainly recommend at least one mate, ideally two (but three is right out).
As a post goes up, one takes control of maintaining the new post in position and upright until initial set. Another checks from a distance and loads the Postcrete. Far faster, more accurate, and well worth the cost of the curry afterwards.
Depending on panel size and wind, it may be possible to hang a panel almost immediately. Whilst waiting for one post to set, dig & prep the next hole and post. Hang the spanning panel on one side (the newly set post), which means you have a guide for the next post which can be pushed up to the panel. A little risky but may be possible on shorter runs. You can also use unused posts as props (both sides) as you move on, although of course you'll run out of these as you progress.
As a post goes up, one takes control of maintaining the new post in position and upright until initial set. Another checks from a distance and loads the Postcrete. Far faster, more accurate, and well worth the cost of the curry afterwards.
Depending on panel size and wind, it may be possible to hang a panel almost immediately. Whilst waiting for one post to set, dig & prep the next hole and post. Hang the spanning panel on one side (the newly set post), which means you have a guide for the next post which can be pushed up to the panel. A little risky but may be possible on shorter runs. You can also use unused posts as props (both sides) as you move on, although of course you'll run out of these as you progress.
Conrete mix for people scared of the real thing ( 
).
Pour in the bag of dry mix, add a little water, sets quickly (and you can always add a bit more if the hole's too big). Expensive and the numpty way, but surprisingly effective. Cheaper than hiring a mixer, less backbreaking, and the speed thing is really handy for fence posts.
).Pour in the bag of dry mix, add a little water, sets quickly (and you can always add a bit more if the hole's too big). Expensive and the numpty way, but surprisingly effective. Cheaper than hiring a mixer, less backbreaking, and the speed thing is really handy for fence posts.
HiRich said:
Depending on panel size and wind, it may be possible to hang a panel almost immediately. Whilst waiting for one post to set, dig & prep the next hole and post. Hang the spanning panel on one side (the newly set post), which means you have a guide for the next post which can be pushed up to the panel. A little risky but may be possible on shorter runs. You can also use unused posts as props (both sides) as you move on, although of course you'll run out of these as you progress.
I've done this a few times with a variety of posts and I defintely agree with putting the panels in place as you go along. Measuring 6' accurately isn't easy and if goes wrong you're creating all sorts of hassle.I have to add, that when using postcrete I'm sure the instructions don't recommend mixing it, but I found if you don't the contents don't spread out very evenly and can leave you with one side of the hole full of mortar mix, the other with heavy pieces of aggregate - I recommend a metal rod of some sort to break up the mix and even it out a bit before and after adding water.
Deva Link said:
I've done this a few times with a variety of posts and I defintely agree with putting the panels in place as you go along. Measuring 6' accurately isn't easy and if goes wrong you're creating all sorts of hassle.
Thats exactly the problem I had when I last put some fencing panels up - You measure ever so carefully between the posts but when it comes to putting the panels in you're always just a bit out.This is the whole reason why the concrete post and gravel boards are so easy. Dig first hole. set post using post mix, check levels on both sides. Run string line to where fence ends. Put gravel board in slot and get level. Then remove and dig hole. Put 2nd post in hole using gravel board for distance from first post, string line to keep straight and level to keep upright. etc. etc. Slot in panels afterwards (though you can't do this if there's anything overhanging!
Couple of tricks I've found - Obviously use the string line to keep things straight. If you don't use gravel boards cut a piece of timber to the width of your panel and use this between posts to give the correct distance and also level the bottom of the panel (you may need to add / remove soil to get a level between the posts). Wood is also a bit easier / lighter than shifting a concrete gravel board around to use as a template. Also use one of the old fence posts as a guide - screw a bit of 2x1 at 90deg across it 2ft from one ned to act as a depth marker. Use said post as gauge to measure the depth of your hole and ensure the tops of the fence posts are at roughly the same level.
I found the post hole digging tools (like a large pair of pliers) really good for digging narrow holes quickly.
Couple of tricks I've found - Obviously use the string line to keep things straight. If you don't use gravel boards cut a piece of timber to the width of your panel and use this between posts to give the correct distance and also level the bottom of the panel (you may need to add / remove soil to get a level between the posts). Wood is also a bit easier / lighter than shifting a concrete gravel board around to use as a template. Also use one of the old fence posts as a guide - screw a bit of 2x1 at 90deg across it 2ft from one ned to act as a depth marker. Use said post as gauge to measure the depth of your hole and ensure the tops of the fence posts are at roughly the same level.
I found the post hole digging tools (like a large pair of pliers) really good for digging narrow holes quickly.
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