External condensate pipe freezing

[Festive Ferg]

No condensing boiler installs of mine have frozen to my knowledge, I'm sure my customers would have been in touch.
Funny that.

[CrashTD]

I don't really know why I am in this thread as my boiler is tickety boo but I have learnt much about boilers.

I have question to the those that know - One of the radiators in my house whistles from the thermostat.

To stop the noise I need to turn it down from 5 to say 3. Then after 20mins or so the noise returns. Adjust the setting and it stops.

Massively annoying as its the one in the master bedroom and its loud enough to wake me.

What causes this and how do I stop it? Is the only rad in the house without a bleed valve if it makes any difference.

[Festive Ferg]

CrashTD said:

I don't really know why I am in this thread as my boiler is tickety boo but I have learnt much about boilers.

I have question to the those that know - One of the radiators in my house whistles from the thermostat.

To stop the noise I need to turn it down from 5 to say 3. Then after 20mins or so the noise returns. Adjust the setting and it stops.

Massively annoying as its the one in the master bedroom and its loud enough to wake me.

What causes this and how do I stop it? Is the only rad in the house without a bleed valve if it makes any difference.

No bleed valve????? How can this be??

More pertinent....sounds like the TRV is on the wrong end. Is it on the pipe that gets hot first (Flow)??

[CrashTD]

Festive Ferg said:

No bleed valve????? How can this be??

More pertinent....sounds like the TRV is on the wrong end. Is it on the pipe that gets hot first (Flow)??

Definitely no bleed valve.

I am 99% sure that TRV is on the flow pipe as that side of the rad gets hot first when the heating goes on.

The other side has one of the really old valves which don't have numbers on and are much smaller. Playing around with this valve can also stop the noise (just tried) but does not 'make noise' like the other side.

I am assuming this noise is air/water rushing around?

[Festive Ferg]

CrashTD said:

I am 99% sure that TRV is on the flow pipe as that side of the rad gets hot first when the heating goes on.

The other side has one of the really old valves which don't have numbers on and are much smaller. Playing around with this valve can also stop the noise (just tried) but does not 'make noise' like the other side.

I am assuming this noise is air/water rushing around?

It's velocity noise, yeah. If it's going the right way through that TRV then you could possibly stop it with a differential bypass valve on the system, but equally it may just be a st TRV.

Anyway... are the two valves at the bottom? If so, now was the radiator bled?? Does it have two chrome blank plugs at the top by mistake??

[CrashTD]

Festive Ferg] said:

It's velocity noise, yeah. If it's going the right way through that TRV then you could possibly stop it with a differential bypass valve on the system, but equally it may just be a st TRV.

Anyway... are the two valves at the bottom? If so, now was the radiator bled?? Does it have two chrome blank plugs at the top by mistake??

The two valves are at the bottom. Not sure how the rads were bled as I was not around when the new boiler was fitted. Its a single radiator with no valves/blanks at the top.

The TRV is a Salus if if helps with your diagnostics. Thanks for your help by the way Ferg

[Festive Ferg]

I suspect the radiator has a bleed on the back of the panel, no?

[CrashTD]

Festive Ferg said:

I suspect the radiator has a bleed on the back of the panel, no?

Definitely no hidden valves top or bottom, front or back. I even went and got the inspection lamp to have a look and moved the desk.

On the back of the valves at the bottom there are no other valves/screws etc.

[Deva Link]

CrashTD said:

Festive Ferg said:

I suspect the radiator has a bleed on the back of the panel, no?

Definitely no hidden valves top or bottom, front or back. I even went and got the inspection lamp to have a look and moved the desk.

On the back of the valves at the bottom there are no other valves/screws etc.

It must have a bleed valve - it would be impossible for it to fill with water without letting the air out.

If it's on the back of the panel then they're usually covered with a fairly flush white plastic cap.

[CrashTD]

Deva Link said:

CrashTD said:

Festive Ferg said:

I suspect the radiator has a bleed on the back of the panel, no?

Definitely no hidden valves top or bottom, front or back. I even went and got the inspection lamp to have a look and moved the desk.

On the back of the valves at the bottom there are no other valves/screws etc.

It must have a bleed valve - it would be impossible for it to fill with water without letting the air out.

If it's on the back of the panel then they're usually covered with a fairly flush white plastic cap.

That would be the one somebody has painted over. Just dug it out with a pen knife. Shall I bleed it or buy a new TRV?

[Deva Link]

CrashTD said:

That would be the one somebody has painted over. Just dug it out with a pen knife. Shall I bleed it or buy a new TRV?

It's a lot of hassle to change a TRV on it's own - can't it be made quiet enough by closing down the lock shield valve on the other end?

[CrashTD]

Deva Link said:

CrashTD said:

That would be the one somebody has painted over. Just dug it out with a pen knife. Shall I bleed it or buy a new TRV?

It's a lot of hassle to change a TRV on it's own - can't it be made quiet enough by closing down the lock shield valve on the other end?

If I adjust the LSV I can stop the noise. Are you saying completely close it?

Thanks for persevering with me.

[Deva Link]

CrashTD said:

Deva Link said:

CrashTD said:

That would be the one somebody has painted over. Just dug it out with a pen knife. Shall I bleed it or buy a new TRV?

It's a lot of hassle to change a TRV on it's own - can't it be made quiet enough by closing down the lock shield valve on the other end?

If I adjust the LSV I can stop the noise. Are you saying completely close it?

Thanks for persevering with me.

No - if you close it then the rad will go off! Just see if you can find a position for the LSV where the noise at the TRV is reduced.

[CrashTD]

Deva Link said:

CrashTD said:

Deva Link said:

CrashTD said:

That would be the one somebody has painted over. Just dug it out with a pen knife. Shall I bleed it or buy a new TRV?

It's a lot of hassle to change a TRV on it's own - can't it be made quiet enough by closing down the lock shield valve on the other end?

If I adjust the LSV I can stop the noise. Are you saying completely close it?

Thanks for persevering with me.

No - if you close it then the rad will go off! Just see if you can find a position for the LSV where the noise at the TRV is reduced.

Wherever I set the TRV the noise will return after about 20 minutes, until I adjust it.

[buzzer]

CrashTD said:

Deva Link said:

CrashTD said:

Deva Link said:

CrashTD said:

That would be the one somebody has painted over. Just dug it out with a pen knife. Shall I bleed it or buy a new TRV?

It's a lot of hassle to change a TRV on it's own - can't it be made quiet enough by closing down the lock shield valve on the other end?

If I adjust the LSV I can stop the noise. Are you saying completely close it?

Thanks for persevering with me.

No - if you close it then the rad will go off! Just see if you can find a position for the LSV where the noise at the TRV is reduced.

Wherever I set the TRV the noise will return after about 20 minutes, until I adjust it.

I had this... I swapped the thermostatic bit of the TRV for another one from another radiator in the house, in a room we don't use often. It cured the problem! the tops are changed easily without draining the system.

Older TRV valves were not unidirectional, so as someone said it might be on the wrong end though...