Gloss on woodwork turning yellow??
Discussion
I have been using water-based satin paints for some time now around the house, and find some pros and cons:
Pros: Great smooth finish on well sanded, previously painted surfaces; Stays white far longer than conventional gloss (Dulux / Crown / Trade) even when out of direct sunlight.
Cons: Marks like you could not imagine - the slightest touch leaves a black mark that can only be removed by re-painting; Not particularly suitable for areas likely to get wet (windowsill above sink, architrave near a shower) especially if it is recent build, cheapo mdf rather than real wood.
Having said that, I feel that it looks more contemporary than gloss, so I am happy with the added care needed to keep it looking good.
Pros: Great smooth finish on well sanded, previously painted surfaces; Stays white far longer than conventional gloss (Dulux / Crown / Trade) even when out of direct sunlight.
Cons: Marks like you could not imagine - the slightest touch leaves a black mark that can only be removed by re-painting; Not particularly suitable for areas likely to get wet (windowsill above sink, architrave near a shower) especially if it is recent build, cheapo mdf rather than real wood.
Having said that, I feel that it looks more contemporary than gloss, so I am happy with the added care needed to keep it looking good.
callyman said:
Best way to get a flat finish on a flat door is to take to door off if poss and lay it flat, then use a fine roller, get it on reasonably thick and it will self level to some degree, that will give you a very good smooth finish.
Like to know more about this self levelling paint you talk of.callyman said:
Best way to get a flat finish on a flat door is to take to door off if poss and lay it flat, then use a fine roller, get it on reasonably thick and it will self level to some degree, that will give you a very good smooth finish.
The same can be achieved by leaving doors hanging, then as per your post rolling paint on, then brushing over finely with good quality brush.xllifts said:
Use permoglaze undercoat and gloss its acrylic and will last for ages. Bit expensive but worth every penny.
Remember preparation is the art to a good finish, always sand back and undercoat then apply gloss.
You are sometimes better to put two thin coats of gloss on as opposed to one thicker coat gives a smooth deep finish.
Like the sound of this Permaglaze stuff - can you get this at B&Q, and if so, who makes it and what is it called. TaRemember preparation is the art to a good finish, always sand back and undercoat then apply gloss.
You are sometimes better to put two thin coats of gloss on as opposed to one thicker coat gives a smooth deep finish.
Wings said:
callyman said:
Best way to get a flat finish on a flat door is to take to door off if poss and lay it flat, then use a fine roller, get it on reasonably thick and it will self level to some degree, that will give you a very good smooth finish.
The same can be achieved by leaving doors hanging, then as per your post rolling paint on, then brushing over finely with good quality brush.Holiday and weekend jobs from school spent working for an old proper craftsman coach painter has stood me well over the intervening decades. Did I learn the value of preparation, preparation, perspiration, preparation or what?
JohnRS4 said:
Have always used Dulux Trade Satinwood and never seems to go yellow. Was recommended by several decoraters who would not use anything else.
Well, this is what i bought Used a water based Dulux trade undercoat/primer (2 coats) then this Dulux trade Satinwood. Only given it one coat so far, and tbh, doesn't look like it will require a second, but may do just to be sure. Don't know what the difference is, but this 'trade' paint seems better quality to the usual paint, only time will tell though.
Cheers all
Almost given up on white paint for this very reason....tried virtually every brand, now wherever possible, instead of white I use a very light shade of grey.
For white radiators, "International" (non yellowing) radiator enamel is OK, but it tends to whiff for a day or two till it dries out.
For white radiators, "International" (non yellowing) radiator enamel is OK, but it tends to whiff for a day or two till it dries out.
Phooey said:
xllifts said:
Use permoglaze undercoat and gloss its acrylic and will last for ages. Bit expensive but worth every penny.
Remember preparation is the art to a good finish, always sand back and undercoat then apply gloss.
You are sometimes better to put two thin coats of gloss on as opposed to one thicker coat gives a smooth deep finish.
Like the sound of this Permaglaze stuff - can you get this at B&Q, and if so, who makes it and what is it called. TaRemember preparation is the art to a good finish, always sand back and undercoat then apply gloss.
You are sometimes better to put two thin coats of gloss on as opposed to one thicker coat gives a smooth deep finish.
xllifts said:
Phooey said:
xllifts said:
Use permoglaze undercoat and gloss its acrylic and will last for ages. Bit expensive but worth every penny.
Remember preparation is the art to a good finish, always sand back and undercoat then apply gloss.
You are sometimes better to put two thin coats of gloss on as opposed to one thicker coat gives a smooth deep finish.
Like the sound of this Permaglaze stuff - can you get this at B&Q, and if so, who makes it and what is it called. TaRemember preparation is the art to a good finish, always sand back and undercoat then apply gloss.
You are sometimes better to put two thin coats of gloss on as opposed to one thicker coat gives a smooth deep finish.
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