3000 Km road trip in magnificent Newfoundland, Canada (pics)
Discussion
Newfoundland is not the most likely place to visit, a rugged island a bit bigger than Portugal way out on the East coast of Canada in the North Atlantic, much closer to Ireland than to Vancouver. It was once home to the richest fishery on Earth, now closed due to years of overfishing and the advent of huge factory ships off shore. This resulted in the virtual destruction of a way of life that had endured for centuries. Nonetheless, the people are resilient, tough,and incredibly hospitable, and their economic challenges have utterly failed to defeat a culture rich in humour,history and tremendous kindness.
It would turn out to have surprises every day, virtually every one pleasant, and a range of experiences from seeing icebergs in the lonely morning fog to staying at one of the world’s greatest 5 star hotels, needing a long drive followed by a ferry ride.
There are thousand of miles of challenging roads around the deep inlets, and the Targa Newfoundland is one of the most challenging rallies anywhere.
Avis had a Dodge Challenger, big enough for luggage and photographic stuff, and moderately quick. It would turn out to be a bit too low and floaty for some of the gravel roads we occasionally took, and the seats should have come with a free ticket to the chiropractor after a couple of hours, but it did the job:
After all, where can you drive through places with names that sound like they are from Harry Potter?: Come By Chance, Bare Need, Heart’s Delight,Hearts Content,Small Point,Placentia, and some more colourful ones later in this post.
It would turn out to have surprises every day, virtually every one pleasant, and a range of experiences from seeing icebergs in the lonely morning fog to staying at one of the world’s greatest 5 star hotels, needing a long drive followed by a ferry ride.
There are thousand of miles of challenging roads around the deep inlets, and the Targa Newfoundland is one of the most challenging rallies anywhere.
Avis had a Dodge Challenger, big enough for luggage and photographic stuff, and moderately quick. It would turn out to be a bit too low and floaty for some of the gravel roads we occasionally took, and the seats should have come with a free ticket to the chiropractor after a couple of hours, but it did the job:
After all, where can you drive through places with names that sound like they are from Harry Potter?: Come By Chance, Bare Need, Heart’s Delight,Hearts Content,Small Point,Placentia, and some more colourful ones later in this post.
Edited by RDMcG on Sunday 26th July 02:09
Instead of starting in the capital, St John’s we elected to hit the road immediately and drive to Trinity, a small town on The Bonavista Peninsula about 270km away.
This is historically protected, with a small population of about 200, and a very credible little theatre. The fishing boats are gone now, but tourism has given it a new lease on life.
Checking into Fishers’ Loft in nearby Port Rexton, we found a place that looked 200 years old but was modern, with a locavore chef, outstanding food, and spacious rooms. No elevator though
…
and a nice view from the room:
An early morning drive into Trinity goes past the mussel beds:
Into the small old town:
During the day there is often a pageant put on by the local theatre company which is very entertaining, covering the history of Trinity:
It is a very good base to explore the entire Bonavista Peninsula, and close by it a fascinating guided tour called Rugged Beauty, by Bruce Miller. He can remember the fishing days of old, when small outports, (communities of a few hundred) had no access roads and could only be reached by boat. They were entirely self sufficient. Now, nothing remains but photographs of those days. The towns are all gone. Bruce brings photographs from the heyday of the outports, and as we sit in the bays where they once stood with only the eagles,gulls and loons for company, the effect is quite ghostly. He remembers these place from his childhood as we go from cove to cove and is a superb storyteller.
Here once stood 300 dwellings. One original remains:
Bad shot this, as I had forgotten to being along lens on the boat..but if you look on the left hand side of the shot there is an eagle in flight from my iPhone:
Nearby is Elliston, which prides itself in a very unlikely way. We did not tour the root cellars.
As with almost every dwelling here, there are great piles of firewood. Winters are vicious, snows and storms of epic proportions, and people are prepared. The buildings look a bit like Edward Hopper paintings in certain light:
Time for lunch!
Up near the top of the Peninsula lies the hamlet of Amherst Cove,just a few houses really.
Here sits the Bonavista Social Club. Who is mad enough to go out the the edge of a very lightly populated peninsula and build a wood fired pizza restaurant with its own herb garden serving amazing food?.More importantly, who is mad enough to come?.
“Do you have a reservation?” WHAT?…we are in the middle of nowhere. A large table of bikers ( who turn out to be paratroop veterans) sits on one side, and the place is packed. We eventually get a table. Wonderful pizza appears, but who could resist a mooseburger?. all sauces and dressing are made on the premises.
(There are thousands of moose in Newfoundland and signs everywhere to be careful driving. The are huge suckers)
After a couple of days exploring the Bonavista Peninsula its time to go, to see the most amazing thing of all - Fogo Island.
This is historically protected, with a small population of about 200, and a very credible little theatre. The fishing boats are gone now, but tourism has given it a new lease on life.
Checking into Fishers’ Loft in nearby Port Rexton, we found a place that looked 200 years old but was modern, with a locavore chef, outstanding food, and spacious rooms. No elevator though
…and a nice view from the room:
An early morning drive into Trinity goes past the mussel beds:
Into the small old town:
During the day there is often a pageant put on by the local theatre company which is very entertaining, covering the history of Trinity:
It is a very good base to explore the entire Bonavista Peninsula, and close by it a fascinating guided tour called Rugged Beauty, by Bruce Miller. He can remember the fishing days of old, when small outports, (communities of a few hundred) had no access roads and could only be reached by boat. They were entirely self sufficient. Now, nothing remains but photographs of those days. The towns are all gone. Bruce brings photographs from the heyday of the outports, and as we sit in the bays where they once stood with only the eagles,gulls and loons for company, the effect is quite ghostly. He remembers these place from his childhood as we go from cove to cove and is a superb storyteller.
Here once stood 300 dwellings. One original remains:
Bad shot this, as I had forgotten to being along lens on the boat..but if you look on the left hand side of the shot there is an eagle in flight from my iPhone:
Nearby is Elliston, which prides itself in a very unlikely way. We did not tour the root cellars.
As with almost every dwelling here, there are great piles of firewood. Winters are vicious, snows and storms of epic proportions, and people are prepared. The buildings look a bit like Edward Hopper paintings in certain light:
Time for lunch!
Up near the top of the Peninsula lies the hamlet of Amherst Cove,just a few houses really.
Here sits the Bonavista Social Club. Who is mad enough to go out the the edge of a very lightly populated peninsula and build a wood fired pizza restaurant with its own herb garden serving amazing food?.More importantly, who is mad enough to come?.
“Do you have a reservation?” WHAT?…we are in the middle of nowhere. A large table of bikers ( who turn out to be paratroop veterans) sits on one side, and the place is packed. We eventually get a table. Wonderful pizza appears, but who could resist a mooseburger?. all sauces and dressing are made on the premises.
(There are thousands of moose in Newfoundland and signs everywhere to be careful driving. The are huge suckers)
After a couple of days exploring the Bonavista Peninsula its time to go, to see the most amazing thing of all - Fogo Island.
Edited by RDMcG on Sunday 26th July 02:10
Edited by RDMcG on Sunday 26th July 02:11
Its a long drive from Trinity to a place called Farewell. There you can get the Farewell to Change ferry, which lands you on the Change Islands., or the the Farewell to Fogo Ferry…to an island about 30 km long. Fogo-population 2500.
We wait for the ferry. I am beginning to hate the seats in the Charger which are tough on the back
Arriving on the Island, we drive through Little Seldom and Seldom to our destination:
Joe Batt’s Arm.
Here sits an astonishing hotel with a wild story.
Like most of Newfoundland, Fogo was devastated by the closure of the fishery. Zita Cobb grew up here, left at the age of 18, and became highly successful as CFO of a tech firm, retiring at the age of 43 with $70 million in the bank.
She wanted to do something for her home province. The Fogo Island Inn was built by local people,is staffed by local people. Thefoof, furniture and bed covers, everything is local. It has local gardens and foragers, a world-leading kitchen,no tipping as the staff shares in 15% of the revenue, and attracts visitors from all over the globe. It sits like an iceberg on the edge of a rocky outcrop, and is owned by a charitable foundation that Zita set up. Additionally the foundation had set up a set of small, jewel -like studios in isolation on the islands, and local writers and artists can submit requests to use them. If they are accepted, there is no charge.
It is not cheap.
All rooms and dining facilities face the sea:
Food is all local and wonderful:
and it does of course have a couple of Newfoundland dogs:
Key fobs are bronzed pieces of random artifacts found upon the island:
Sunsets and sunrises are spectacular
The roof is one of the most zen-like places I have ever been in:
Looking down you can see the contrast from the cool perfection of the building and the rough rock:
If you fancy a morning bike ride, all can be supplied:
and there is nothing like putting your feet up at the fire and looking at the sea:
Still, it was time to explore the island.
We wait for the ferry. I am beginning to hate the seats in the Charger which are tough on the back
Arriving on the Island, we drive through Little Seldom and Seldom to our destination:
Joe Batt’s Arm.
Here sits an astonishing hotel with a wild story.
Like most of Newfoundland, Fogo was devastated by the closure of the fishery. Zita Cobb grew up here, left at the age of 18, and became highly successful as CFO of a tech firm, retiring at the age of 43 with $70 million in the bank.
She wanted to do something for her home province. The Fogo Island Inn was built by local people,is staffed by local people. Thefoof, furniture and bed covers, everything is local. It has local gardens and foragers, a world-leading kitchen,no tipping as the staff shares in 15% of the revenue, and attracts visitors from all over the globe. It sits like an iceberg on the edge of a rocky outcrop, and is owned by a charitable foundation that Zita set up. Additionally the foundation had set up a set of small, jewel -like studios in isolation on the islands, and local writers and artists can submit requests to use them. If they are accepted, there is no charge.
It is not cheap.
All rooms and dining facilities face the sea:
Food is all local and wonderful:
and it does of course have a couple of Newfoundland dogs:
Key fobs are bronzed pieces of random artifacts found upon the island:
Sunsets and sunrises are spectacular
The roof is one of the most zen-like places I have ever been in:
Looking down you can see the contrast from the cool perfection of the building and the rough rock:
If you fancy a morning bike ride, all can be supplied:
and there is nothing like putting your feet up at the fire and looking at the sea:
Still, it was time to explore the island.
The town of Joe Batt’s Arm is a pretty little village,worth a drive around:
Though the great fishing fleets are gone:
It is only a short drive to Tilting.
Tilting was populated by Irish in about 1770, and the really strange thing is that they have retained Irish accents. Real Irish accents. A stroll through the old Irish cemetery shows gravestones from people who arrived here in the 18 century.
Towering above Tilting is Brimstone Head. If you are a member of the Flat Earth Society ( as many PH’s are doubtless), you will now that Brimstone Head is designated by the Society as one of the Four Corners of the world. How anyone could come to Newfoundland and conclude the earth is flat is a mystery to me.
Irish Flags are everywhere, and one of them is near a shed called Foley’s. Newfoundlanders are very sociable and musical, and the shed is just a gathering place where you can come anytime the Shamrock is lit, bring whatever you want to drink, and sing or listen to the singers and musicians. There is no charge but you can leave something in the jar. I run into Maureen Foley who runs it with her husband. We will see her again sooner than we think.
Over a hill within walking distance, isolated on the coast in one of the studios set up by the Foundation for artists mentioned earlier…
On the way back to the Inn, we see another of the studios in the distance:
Back at the Inn, they have local musicians singing in the lounge. Who should be singing but..Maureen Foley, and her friend, Marie Dan. They have a strange habit in Tilting. There are not many name variations, so women are known by their own name and the given name of their husbands. They begin to play and sing, and suddenly a guest from Ohio asks for some spoons. He is a professional percussionist, and soon the guests are dancing. Its just that kind of place.
It was time to leave the Inn, which is truly one of the most wonderful places I have ever stayed in. We were off to the Avalon Peninsula. As the drive was long we stopped over in Gander.
A place to be visited for as short a time as possible, but next morning we were on the way.
Though the great fishing fleets are gone:
It is only a short drive to Tilting.
Tilting was populated by Irish in about 1770, and the really strange thing is that they have retained Irish accents. Real Irish accents. A stroll through the old Irish cemetery shows gravestones from people who arrived here in the 18 century.
Towering above Tilting is Brimstone Head. If you are a member of the Flat Earth Society ( as many PH’s are doubtless), you will now that Brimstone Head is designated by the Society as one of the Four Corners of the world. How anyone could come to Newfoundland and conclude the earth is flat is a mystery to me.
Irish Flags are everywhere, and one of them is near a shed called Foley’s. Newfoundlanders are very sociable and musical, and the shed is just a gathering place where you can come anytime the Shamrock is lit, bring whatever you want to drink, and sing or listen to the singers and musicians. There is no charge but you can leave something in the jar. I run into Maureen Foley who runs it with her husband. We will see her again sooner than we think.
Over a hill within walking distance, isolated on the coast in one of the studios set up by the Foundation for artists mentioned earlier…
On the way back to the Inn, we see another of the studios in the distance:
Back at the Inn, they have local musicians singing in the lounge. Who should be singing but..Maureen Foley, and her friend, Marie Dan. They have a strange habit in Tilting. There are not many name variations, so women are known by their own name and the given name of their husbands. They begin to play and sing, and suddenly a guest from Ohio asks for some spoons. He is a professional percussionist, and soon the guests are dancing. Its just that kind of place.
It was time to leave the Inn, which is truly one of the most wonderful places I have ever stayed in. We were off to the Avalon Peninsula. As the drive was long we stopped over in Gander.
A place to be visited for as short a time as possible, but next morning we were on the way.
There are many places to stay in Avalon, which includes the capital and by far the largest town St John’s.
Harbour Grace is a handy location to explore the Avalon. Once a town of 30,000 at the height of the fisheries, it is now about 10% of that, and the big harbour has ship repair, but little fishing.
Rothesay House is handy place to stay, comfortable with good food and a knowledgeable proprietor.
The town has a little aviation history. Here, Amelia Earhart took off in 1932 to become the first woman to fly the Atlantic solo. The airfield has been kept mowed every since. A statue stands near the harbour in front of a DC-3
In the harbour for the last 52 years has sat the remains of the SS Kyle. She was launched in 1913 and plied the coastal waters till 1964 when she hit a berg,common in these parts. She was moored for repair when a huge storm blew up and she slipped her moorings, floating 4km up the estuary till she beached. She had not moved to this day.
The DC3 was originally a 1943 USAF C-47, converted to civilian use and flew in Labrador till 2003:
There appeared to be more boats on land than in the water:
Newfoundland weather is notoriously unstable, and it was socking in. It has been an unusually bad summer, so every day is an adventure. We had heard that there were bergs coming ashore not too far away, so on a misty morning we set out:
and there they were:
The fog stayed around all day:
Next day was brighter, and one of the quirkier places to eat and shop was well worth a visit…the Grumpy Goat Gallery:
which indeed has grumpy goats
There is still some fishery happening, chiefly inshore and for Capelin, a small fish used in anima food mainly:
There is a short season when Newfoundlanders are allowed to catch up to five cod a day for their own use. On the first day of the season little tables appear on every jetty, and the fishermen clean the fresh cod right on the jetty, tossing the detritus back for the seagulls:
After a brief drive across the Peninsula we arrived in Dildo, beloved of teenaged boys everywhere. It is actually a pretty little place:
The final stop before St John’s was Bay Bulls, which has a very good and new B&B called the Bread and Cheese.
This is where you get the boat to the huge bird sanctuary ( 2.5 million birds), and whales are common in season.
Down the Peninsula almost any stop will get you to a pretty cove:
and as you loop back to St Johns is can be pretty empty, like at this Fjiord:
Still, on an unmarked section, in a garden, we came across this wonderful miniature village:
and so…it was time for the last day or two in St John's
Harbour Grace is a handy location to explore the Avalon. Once a town of 30,000 at the height of the fisheries, it is now about 10% of that, and the big harbour has ship repair, but little fishing.
Rothesay House is handy place to stay, comfortable with good food and a knowledgeable proprietor.
The town has a little aviation history. Here, Amelia Earhart took off in 1932 to become the first woman to fly the Atlantic solo. The airfield has been kept mowed every since. A statue stands near the harbour in front of a DC-3
In the harbour for the last 52 years has sat the remains of the SS Kyle. She was launched in 1913 and plied the coastal waters till 1964 when she hit a berg,common in these parts. She was moored for repair when a huge storm blew up and she slipped her moorings, floating 4km up the estuary till she beached. She had not moved to this day.
The DC3 was originally a 1943 USAF C-47, converted to civilian use and flew in Labrador till 2003:
There appeared to be more boats on land than in the water:
Newfoundland weather is notoriously unstable, and it was socking in. It has been an unusually bad summer, so every day is an adventure. We had heard that there were bergs coming ashore not too far away, so on a misty morning we set out:
and there they were:
The fog stayed around all day:
Next day was brighter, and one of the quirkier places to eat and shop was well worth a visit…the Grumpy Goat Gallery:
which indeed has grumpy goats
There is still some fishery happening, chiefly inshore and for Capelin, a small fish used in anima food mainly:
There is a short season when Newfoundlanders are allowed to catch up to five cod a day for their own use. On the first day of the season little tables appear on every jetty, and the fishermen clean the fresh cod right on the jetty, tossing the detritus back for the seagulls:
After a brief drive across the Peninsula we arrived in Dildo, beloved of teenaged boys everywhere. It is actually a pretty little place:
The final stop before St John’s was Bay Bulls, which has a very good and new B&B called the Bread and Cheese.
This is where you get the boat to the huge bird sanctuary ( 2.5 million birds), and whales are common in season.
Down the Peninsula almost any stop will get you to a pretty cove:
and as you loop back to St Johns is can be pretty empty, like at this Fjiord:
Still, on an unmarked section, in a garden, we came across this wonderful miniature village:
and so…it was time for the last day or two in St John's
St John’s which has a city population of about 100,000, is the capital. It is a protected deepwater port with a keyhole entrance,and as hilly as San Francisco, Flat Earth Society notwithstanding. People love colour here and the whole city is brightly painted:
There was no indication of what Winkies made:
There are quite a few excellent restaurants, Raymonds being the best. You can even get a good coffee at the Rocket in the morning:
and cod cakes of course:
The Fog was getting worse, and the airport closed. Off Cape Spear, it was not looking good:
We are staying at rock-themed hotel on those last days when I noticed the words of Hunter S Thompson:
However ,we did get out a day late, and on Newfoundland , there is always a positive side. The people, the music, the amazing roads, the beauty,the fact that you get different weather every day. They take is all in stride.
When I got back I saw ahilarious interview with the Royal Newfoundland Constabulary that had put out an APB for…………………….
http://news.nationalpost.com/news/canada/newfoundl...
If you want to do something a bit different, its hard to beat.
There was no indication of what Winkies made:
There are quite a few excellent restaurants, Raymonds being the best. You can even get a good coffee at the Rocket in the morning:
and cod cakes of course:
The Fog was getting worse, and the airport closed. Off Cape Spear, it was not looking good:
We are staying at rock-themed hotel on those last days when I noticed the words of Hunter S Thompson:
However ,we did get out a day late, and on Newfoundland , there is always a positive side. The people, the music, the amazing roads, the beauty,the fact that you get different weather every day. They take is all in stride.
When I got back I saw ahilarious interview with the Royal Newfoundland Constabulary that had put out an APB for…………………….
http://news.nationalpost.com/news/canada/newfoundl...
If you want to do something a bit different, its hard to beat.
Edited by RDMcG on Sunday 26th July 02:14
RDMcG said:
St John’s which has a city population of about 100,000, is the capital. It is a protected deepwater port with a keyhole entrance,and as hilly as San Francisco, Flat Earth Society notwithstanding. People love colour here and the whole city is brightly painted:
For the last few years I've done St.John's about 3 or 4 times a year for business, and it's a fantastic place (less so in January!). The people are awesome, the nightlife is the best in Atlantic Canada, George Street is a sight to behold at night, and when the strippers visit from Montreal, an expensive night out...House prices have gone crazy due to the offshore oil boom, and my work has stopped taking me there
You can fly direct from the UK I believe, and it's only about 5 hours.
RDMcG said:
As the drive was long we stopped over in Gander.
A place to be visited for as short a time as possible, but next morning we were on the way.
Had to laugh at this. Ive spent lots of nights in Gander, dont remember much except for a bar called Reflections and a big white house that sold fried chicken. It was always a night stop when I was on the Hercules fleet. A place to be visited for as short a time as possible, but next morning we were on the way.
Fluffsri said:
Had to laugh at this. Ive spent lots of nights in Gander, dont remember much except for a bar called Reflections and a big white house that sold fried chicken. It was always a night stop when I was on the Hercules fleet.
Stayed in a ghastly hotel full of bus tourists of advanced age, and a greasy, packed bar beside the internal theatre that did revues. The room was clean enough though. Gassing Station | Holidays & Travel | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff