Discussion
That TC istick is going to be interesting and the new tank is tiny.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcwlljAKBf4
Think in the next couple of months we are going to be infested with TC mods.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GcwlljAKBf4
Think in the next couple of months we are going to be infested with TC mods.
Cotty said:
No offence griffin dai but that is the exact combo (istick 30w & kanger subtank Nano) recommended by a B&M to a work colleague. He is a mouth to lung hitter. He really didn't get on with the Kanger tank, maybe as it such a different type of vape that he was used to. Its really geared to lung hitting.
LordGrover when you say "aspire nautilus mini and cf-vv" are you talking about the Aspire premium starter kit?
http://www.aspirecig.com/aspire-kit/aspire-kit166....
I have two of them, the batteries are ok not great. griffin dai's suggestion of the istick 30w is a good call for a longer lasting battery. An alternative if you want to stick to Aspire products, is the Aspire ESP 30W http://myepack.co.uk/mods/aspire-esp-30w-box-mod.h... I have had one for a few weeks and it works very well. You can put the Aspire Nautilus Mini on top and it works great.
Bottom line is if someone likes the Aspire Nautilus Mini then carry on using it. Until they bring out anything better, the battery is the best upgrade.
Thanks Cotty. LordGrover when you say "aspire nautilus mini and cf-vv" are you talking about the Aspire premium starter kit?
http://www.aspirecig.com/aspire-kit/aspire-kit166....
I have two of them, the batteries are ok not great. griffin dai's suggestion of the istick 30w is a good call for a longer lasting battery. An alternative if you want to stick to Aspire products, is the Aspire ESP 30W http://myepack.co.uk/mods/aspire-esp-30w-box-mod.h... I have had one for a few weeks and it works very well. You can put the Aspire Nautilus Mini on top and it works great.
Bottom line is if someone likes the Aspire Nautilus Mini then carry on using it. Until they bring out anything better, the battery is the best upgrade.
I don't really understand some of the ratings though. Checking the resistance of the head bit she's got, the nautilus mini, the widget thing inside says 0.8 ohms and the battery 1600mAh 3.3-4.8V. I've also seen them available as 0.6 ohm but no idea whether these are suitable?
The battery you linked to says 0.5ohm - is that compatible? Will it mean the widget-bit inside will not last or last longer?
I sometimes see Wattage mentioned too; clearly W=IV and V=IR etc but I don;t get how all this relates to these devices.
I've sort of cracked the TC stuff (getting there anyway!!)
Stuck a nickel build in the magma but this time spaced the coils out (loadsa fun!!!!!)
Ohms are reading a little higher than I wanted but at least now it's locked the atty and giving a much better vape than before with a tight coil with ohms jumping between 0.17 & 0.23. Temp controls working a champ here, really weird experience as it feels like the volts are winding down but it still tries to give me 30 watts. And flavour!!!!!!! Jesus!! This Magmas never been so good!!
So the DNA40's good but definitely not plug & play! Need to get the build as good as possible before screwing it on, then lock the atty (finally can do it!!) and then set temp limit and then have a good old pull
Phil Busardos done a 2 part YouTube vid that's 100% worth watching, I thought it was the same as his first long one with the evolv guy but it's a new 2 parter really explaining how to get the thing working & its shortcomings.
Far from perfect this, I think I'd be pissed if I'd paid £150 for a DNA40 but for 80 quid it's worth it.
Stuck a nickel build in the magma but this time spaced the coils out (loadsa fun!!!!!)
Ohms are reading a little higher than I wanted but at least now it's locked the atty and giving a much better vape than before with a tight coil with ohms jumping between 0.17 & 0.23. Temp controls working a champ here, really weird experience as it feels like the volts are winding down but it still tries to give me 30 watts. And flavour!!!!!!! Jesus!! This Magmas never been so good!!
So the DNA40's good but definitely not plug & play! Need to get the build as good as possible before screwing it on, then lock the atty (finally can do it!!) and then set temp limit and then have a good old pull
Phil Busardos done a 2 part YouTube vid that's 100% worth watching, I thought it was the same as his first long one with the evolv guy but it's a new 2 parter really explaining how to get the thing working & its shortcomings.
Far from perfect this, I think I'd be pissed if I'd paid £150 for a DNA40 but for 80 quid it's worth it.
LordGrover said:
Thanks Cotty.
I don't really understand some of the ratings though. Checking the resistance of the head bit she's got, the nautilus mini, the widget thing inside says 0.8 ohms and the battery 1600mAh 3.3-4.8V. I've also seen them available as 0.6 ohm but no idea whether these are suitable?
The battery you linked to says 0.5ohm - is that compatible? Will it mean the widget-bit inside will not last or last longer?
I sometimes see Wattage mentioned too; clearly W=IV and V=IR etc but I don;t get how all this relates to these devices.
The widget thing inside is commonly referred to as a coil, as it is basically a coil of metal that when heated vaporises the liquid.I don't really understand some of the ratings though. Checking the resistance of the head bit she's got, the nautilus mini, the widget thing inside says 0.8 ohms and the battery 1600mAh 3.3-4.8V. I've also seen them available as 0.6 ohm but no idea whether these are suitable?
The battery you linked to says 0.5ohm - is that compatible? Will it mean the widget-bit inside will not last or last longer?
I sometimes see Wattage mentioned too; clearly W=IV and V=IR etc but I don;t get how all this relates to these devices.
I don't think the coil (widget)would have 0.8ohm or 0.6ohm on them as the only coils produced for the Nautilus are 1.6ohm and 1.8ohm http://myepack.co.uk/accessories/coils/aspire-naut...
The 0.5ohm on the battery referes to how low it will fire at. Using 1.6 or 1.8ohm coils it not something you need to worry about.
Sway said:
Seems a lot more complex than the yihi...
Rub it why don't ya!!!!Yeah definitely not noob friendly, had a right mare yesterday, worked great then took the Taifun off and it was all over the place. It's working great now after spacing the coils out and figuring out how to lock the atty, Made a huge difference. My Origen & SV drippers just turned up so I'll try another build in these plus the subtank ni200 coils are here so that's having a work out later. Just waiting on the nautilus nickel coils then I'll see how they are in the Silo tank.
These finned heatsinks just arrived, do you think these will screw with the temp sensing? I understand now why we have to wait a bit to fit a new atty, both need to be at the same temp for the dna40 to work or the temp will be way off.
It's good, I'm happy with it but there's a lot to be improved on here, I'm hoping the firmware can be updated as they sort the niggles out. Be interesting to see how eleaf have done things with the istick 40. If that works good I'll probably get one
Cotty said:
The widget thing inside is commonly referred to as a coil, as it is basically a coil of metal that when heated vaporises the liquid.
I don't think the coil (widget)would have 0.8ohm or 0.6ohm on them as the only coils produced for the Nautilus are 1.6ohm and 1.8ohm http://myepack.co.uk/accessories/coils/aspire-naut...
The 0.5ohm on the battery referes to how low it will fire at. Using 1.6 or 1.8ohm coils it not something you need to worry about.
Sorry, was working from memory - I see I was mistaken.I don't think the coil (widget)would have 0.8ohm or 0.6ohm on them as the only coils produced for the Nautilus are 1.6ohm and 1.8ohm http://myepack.co.uk/accessories/coils/aspire-naut...
The 0.5ohm on the battery referes to how low it will fire at. Using 1.6 or 1.8ohm coils it not something you need to worry about.
I'll get the battery you suggested then. Thanks.
LordGrover said:
Thanks Cotty.
I don't really understand some of the ratings though. Checking the resistance of the head bit she's got, the nautilus mini, the widget thing inside says 0.8 ohms and the battery 1600mAh 3.3-4.8V. I've also seen them available as 0.6 ohm but no idea whether these are suitable?
The battery you linked to says 0.5ohm - is that compatible? Will it mean the widget-bit inside will not last or last longer?
I sometimes see Wattage mentioned too; clearly W=IV and V=IR etc but I don;t get how all this relates to these devices.
The nautilus coils should come in 1.6 and 1.8ohms mate, I usually just get the 1.6 ones. 1600mah is the battery's capacity, the isticks got a 2200mah so a fair bit more battery life here and you'll notice a lot more punch! 3.3-4.8v is the power range but with the nautilus I usually keep it under 4.2v or it burns the coils (also depends on the juice & how long you vape) the istick works in VV (variable voltage) and VW (variable wattage) modes by clicking the fire button 3 times and this switches between the two. Just run it in wattage mode and again don't go too high as it'll kill the coil in no time. I usually run it between 8.5 - 11w again depending what juice is in there.I don't really understand some of the ratings though. Checking the resistance of the head bit she's got, the nautilus mini, the widget thing inside says 0.8 ohms and the battery 1600mAh 3.3-4.8V. I've also seen them available as 0.6 ohm but no idea whether these are suitable?
The battery you linked to says 0.5ohm - is that compatible? Will it mean the widget-bit inside will not last or last longer?
I sometimes see Wattage mentioned too; clearly W=IV and V=IR etc but I don;t get how all this relates to these devices.
0.5ohms on the battery (is that the istick30?) means it'll fire down to 0.5ohms so if you did fancy trying a sub ohm tank out like the Atlantis or Subtank I mentioned it'll fire here ok with their 0.5ohm coils. But never try to use one of these tanks on that 1600mah battery you've got as its not rated for sub ohming (going below 1.0ohms)
To keep it simple & safe until you've got your head around it just use the nautilus with the istick or the battery Cotty mentioned, use 1.6 or 1.8ohm coils and keep the wattage low(ish) You'll probably kill a coil at first upping the wattage until it tastes right but don't worry about it, just stick another in, let the coil saturate the wick for 5 mins so it doesn't burn, take a few dry pulls without pressing anything as this helps saturate the coil/cotton wick then start at low wattage and work up slowly
You can't really go wrong with the istick30w, really easy to use and pretty cheap. Don't bother with the istick20w just go for the 30 as its much better quality and only a few quid more
griffin dai said:
Sway said:
Seems a lot more complex than the yihi...
Rub it why don't ya!!!!Yeah definitely not noob friendly, had a right mare yesterday, worked great then took the Taifun off and it was all over the place. It's working great now after spacing the coils out and figuring out how to lock the atty, Made a huge difference. My Origen & SV drippers just turned up so I'll try another build in these plus the subtank ni200 coils are here so that's having a work out later. Just waiting on the nautilus nickel coils then I'll see how they are in the Silo tank.
These finned heatsinks just arrived, do you think these will screw with the temp sensing? I understand now why we have to wait a bit to fit a new atty, both need to be at the same temp for the dna40 to work or the temp will be way off.
It's good, I'm happy with it but there's a lot to be improved on here, I'm hoping the firmware can be updated as they sort the niggles out. Be interesting to see how eleaf have done things with the istick 40. If that works good I'll probably get one
I've briefly tested the Yihi at it's max power, but at the same temp limit. Whilst it hits temp very quickly (effectively instantly) it doesn't warm up or anything.
You mean the dna40 hasn't had a few firmware updates? Yihi has - plus you can load logos onto the screen (like the bat symbol for s
ts and giggles)... How are you finding the power profiles? Oh, that's right, dna doesn't have them...
Sorry, I'll stop now.
Cheapskate.
LOL!! Git!!!!!!
Just stuck a couple more builds in the new Origen & SV drippers, still using the same Drakes Vanilla Trifecta juice in all three to see how they compare. More flavour than the Magma with both but this Origen vapes so smooth!! Hits the temp setting a lot faster than the others though, and this has 3 sets of heat fins on it with my new shiny drip tip SV'd drip tips also been swapped for a nicer one
Builds still not the best, gonna need a lot of practice!!
Slowly getting the hang of this dna40! Issue I'm having now is if it hits max temp then the vape quality drops right off and feels like it's pulsing trying to get any heat. Not sure if that's normal or not?
Just stuck a couple more builds in the new Origen & SV drippers, still using the same Drakes Vanilla Trifecta juice in all three to see how they compare. More flavour than the Magma with both but this Origen vapes so smooth!! Hits the temp setting a lot faster than the others though, and this has 3 sets of heat fins on it with my new shiny drip tip
SV'd drip tips also been swapped for a nicer one Builds still not the best, gonna need a lot of practice!!
Slowly getting the hang of this dna40! Issue I'm having now is if it hits max temp then the vape quality drops right off and feels like it's pulsing trying to get any heat. Not sure if that's normal or not?
It's how the dna40 manages the temp...
It gives it full beans until temp is hit, then throttles really heavily. The Yihi seems to start throttling before it hits temp, then gives just enough to balance the cooling effect of evaporation and airflow.
At least, that's what I gleaned from Busardo's oscilloscope plots of the different devices.
It gives it full beans until temp is hit, then throttles really heavily. The Yihi seems to start throttling before it hits temp, then gives just enough to balance the cooling effect of evaporation and airflow.
At least, that's what I gleaned from Busardo's oscilloscope plots of the different devices.
Sway said:
It's how the dna40 manages the temp...
It gives it full beans until temp is hit, then throttles really heavily. The Yihi seems to start throttling before it hits temp, then gives just enough to balance the cooling effect of evaporation and airflow.
At least, that's what I gleaned from Busardo's oscilloscope plots of the different devices.
So what you are saying is buy a Yihi? It gives it full beans until temp is hit, then throttles really heavily. The Yihi seems to start throttling before it hits temp, then gives just enough to balance the cooling effect of evaporation and airflow.
At least, that's what I gleaned from Busardo's oscilloscope plots of the different devices.
Dunno what's giving you that impression?!
I was all for the dna TL device, but the quality issues they had, and the reviews of both devices led me down the Yihi route - and nothing I've seen since has dissuaded me.
Just see it as such a potential improvement, but hate poor implementation. If Dai's having grief, how could a relative noob get on with it?
I was all for the dna TL device, but the quality issues they had, and the reviews of both devices led me down the Yihi route - and nothing I've seen since has dissuaded me.
Just see it as such a potential improvement, but hate poor implementation. If Dai's having grief, how could a relative noob get on with it?
VEA said:
So what you are saying is buy a Yihi?
I'm getting it from both sides now!!
I couldn't stretch to the Yihi
I'll see how I get on with this new tech and maybe get one in a few months Niggly issues aside, it's definitely the best vape I've had. That throttling back is a bit of a pain, correctly spacing the coil is a bit of a pain, getting a dual coil build right is a pain, close to impossible build in my 3 Rose's....mega pain!!! So yeah! Apart from that! We're good
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