Discussion
More novice advice required gents.
Using a Kanger Nebox. Tried my hand at using the rebuildable coil. Still a little practice required to get the right amount of material in there. Can't quite get it perfect yet.
I notice there is a temperature control function on my device. Will I be required to use this with the rebuildable coils or can I just vape on my normal wattage?
Using a Kanger Nebox. Tried my hand at using the rebuildable coil. Still a little practice required to get the right amount of material in there. Can't quite get it perfect yet.
I notice there is a temperature control function on my device. Will I be required to use this with the rebuildable coils or can I just vape on my normal wattage?
DuncB7 said:
More novice advice required gents.
Using a Kanger Nebox. Tried my hand at using the rebuildable coil. Still a little practice required to get the right amount of material in there. Can't quite get it perfect yet.
I notice there is a temperature control function on my device. Will I be required to use this with the rebuildable coils or can I just vape on my normal wattage?
Depends on the wire you're using. Guessing Kanthal, in which case you'll be using wattage.Using a Kanger Nebox. Tried my hand at using the rebuildable coil. Still a little practice required to get the right amount of material in there. Can't quite get it perfect yet.
I notice there is a temperature control function on my device. Will I be required to use this with the rebuildable coils or can I just vape on my normal wattage?
Thanks.
Taking the Nebox back anyway; hopefully for a refund/exchange. RBA coil has become stuck in the tank and the base with the air intake has managed to remove itself completely. I can understand why this was so heavily discounted and received such poor reviews now. Total bag of ste.
Taking the Nebox back anyway; hopefully for a refund/exchange. RBA coil has become stuck in the tank and the base with the air intake has managed to remove itself completely. I can understand why this was so heavily discounted and received such poor reviews now. Total bag of ste.
Morning,
I'm a recent vaping convert having bought one of these. Struggled a bit at the start, using a o.5 ohm coil (lots of coughing). Now bought Kangertech 1.5 ohm coils which don't make me cough, but the first and second coil lasted about 1 hour before burning. I'm running the device at 20w, which is well within the range for the coil. Any other make of coils recommended, or have I just had a bad batch (they are genuine).
Cheers.
I'm a recent vaping convert having bought one of these. Struggled a bit at the start, using a o.5 ohm coil (lots of coughing). Now bought Kangertech 1.5 ohm coils which don't make me cough, but the first and second coil lasted about 1 hour before burning. I'm running the device at 20w, which is well within the range for the coil. Any other make of coils recommended, or have I just had a bad batch (they are genuine).
Cheers.
There are currently four types of Kanger coil:
NiChrome (NiCr) - Red Band - 0.15, 0.5, 1.2 and 1.5 - Have 'NC' written on them - Wattage mode only
Nickel (NI200) - Blue Band - 0.15 - Have 'NI' written on them - Temperature mode only
Stainless (SUS316) - Pink Band - 0.5 - Have 'SS' written on them - Temperature or wattage mode
Kanthal (Clapton) - Black Band - 0.5 - Have 'Clapton' written on them - Wattage mode only
If you're doing mouth-to-lung, you probably want to be using the NiCr @ 1.2 or 1.5 ohms.
Make sure you prime the coil properly when you start.
They're usually very reliable coils and won't burn unless you're pumping too much power through them.
NiChrome (NiCr) - Red Band - 0.15, 0.5, 1.2 and 1.5 - Have 'NC' written on them - Wattage mode only
Nickel (NI200) - Blue Band - 0.15 - Have 'NI' written on them - Temperature mode only
Stainless (SUS316) - Pink Band - 0.5 - Have 'SS' written on them - Temperature or wattage mode
Kanthal (Clapton) - Black Band - 0.5 - Have 'Clapton' written on them - Wattage mode only
If you're doing mouth-to-lung, you probably want to be using the NiCr @ 1.2 or 1.5 ohms.
Make sure you prime the coil properly when you start.
They're usually very reliable coils and won't burn unless you're pumping too much power through them.
Rawwr said:
There are currently four types of Kanger coil:
NiChrome (NiCr) - Red Band - 0.15, 0.5, 1.2 and 1.5 - Have 'NC' written on them - Wattage mode only
Nickel (NI200) - Blue Band - 0.15 - Have 'NI' written on them - Temperature mode only
Stainless (SUS316) - Pink Band - 0.5 - Have 'SS' written on them - Temperature or wattage mode
Kanthal (Clapton) - Black Band - 0.5 - Have 'Clapton' written on them - Wattage mode only
If you're doing mouth-to-lung, you probably want to be using the NiCr @ 1.2 or 1.5 ohms.
Make sure you prime the coil properly when you start.
They're usually very reliable coils and won't burn unless you're pumping too much power through them.
Thanks for the response.NiChrome (NiCr) - Red Band - 0.15, 0.5, 1.2 and 1.5 - Have 'NC' written on them - Wattage mode only
Nickel (NI200) - Blue Band - 0.15 - Have 'NI' written on them - Temperature mode only
Stainless (SUS316) - Pink Band - 0.5 - Have 'SS' written on them - Temperature or wattage mode
Kanthal (Clapton) - Black Band - 0.5 - Have 'Clapton' written on them - Wattage mode only
If you're doing mouth-to-lung, you probably want to be using the NiCr @ 1.2 or 1.5 ohms.
Make sure you prime the coil properly when you start.
They're usually very reliable coils and won't burn unless you're pumping too much power through them.
I am doing mouth-to-lung.
These are the coils I have at the moment https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01DQHH2SG/ref...
Current coil was primed for a good couple of hours.
Ran the above at 20w and it lasted no time. I'll try the next one at 12w and see how that goes.
Cheers.
I find running 1.5ohm coils at higher watts is a sure way to get nasty dry hits.
When I'm using a 1.5ohm coil I run at 7.5 watts - however I can't get anywhere near the airflow required for mouth to lung through those coils.
Mouth to lung seems to work better with lower ohms and higher wattage and a tank with really good airflow.
When I'm using a 1.5ohm coil I run at 7.5 watts - however I can't get anywhere near the airflow required for mouth to lung through those coils.
Mouth to lung seems to work better with lower ohms and higher wattage and a tank with really good airflow.
chili1 said:
Rawwr said:
There are currently four types of Kanger coil:
NiChrome (NiCr) - Red Band - 0.15, 0.5, 1.2 and 1.5 - Have 'NC' written on them - Wattage mode only
Nickel (NI200) - Blue Band - 0.15 - Have 'NI' written on them - Temperature mode only
Stainless (SUS316) - Pink Band - 0.5 - Have 'SS' written on them - Temperature or wattage mode
Kanthal (Clapton) - Black Band - 0.5 - Have 'Clapton' written on them - Wattage mode only
If you're doing mouth-to-lung, you probably want to be using the NiCr @ 1.2 or 1.5 ohms.
Make sure you prime the coil properly when you start.
They're usually very reliable coils and won't burn unless you're pumping too much power through them.
Thanks for the response.NiChrome (NiCr) - Red Band - 0.15, 0.5, 1.2 and 1.5 - Have 'NC' written on them - Wattage mode only
Nickel (NI200) - Blue Band - 0.15 - Have 'NI' written on them - Temperature mode only
Stainless (SUS316) - Pink Band - 0.5 - Have 'SS' written on them - Temperature or wattage mode
Kanthal (Clapton) - Black Band - 0.5 - Have 'Clapton' written on them - Wattage mode only
If you're doing mouth-to-lung, you probably want to be using the NiCr @ 1.2 or 1.5 ohms.
Make sure you prime the coil properly when you start.
They're usually very reliable coils and won't burn unless you're pumping too much power through them.
I am doing mouth-to-lung.
These are the coils I have at the moment https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01DQHH2SG/ref...
Current coil was primed for a good couple of hours.
Ran the above at 20w and it lasted no time. I'll try the next one at 12w and see how that goes.
Cheers.
Tip: Make sure when putting in a new coil, that when the Nebox asks if it is a new coil, you select yes, otherwise it will keep the resistance from the previous coil. If the device doesn’t ask this question, screw the cover off slightly and hit the fire button, so it shows 9.999ohms. Now when screwing the cap back on, it should ask you if you are using a new coil or not.
from
http://vaping360.com/kanger-nebox-review/
Stu T said:
Assuming you are referring to the nebox (which I don't have), one thought is that it hasn't recognised the new coil resistance:
Tip: Make sure when putting in a new coil, that when the Nebox asks if it is a new coil, you select yes, otherwise it will keep the resistance from the previous coil. If the device doesn’t ask this question, screw the cover off slightly and hit the fire button, so it shows 9.999ohms. Now when screwing the cap back on, it should ask you if you are using a new coil or not.
from
http://vaping360.com/kanger-nebox-review/
Sorry, I missed out the link from my original post. I've got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Authentic-Kangertech-Upgr...Tip: Make sure when putting in a new coil, that when the Nebox asks if it is a new coil, you select yes, otherwise it will keep the resistance from the previous coil. If the device doesn’t ask this question, screw the cover off slightly and hit the fire button, so it shows 9.999ohms. Now when screwing the cap back on, it should ask you if you are using a new coil or not.
from
http://vaping360.com/kanger-nebox-review/
It did ask if it was a new coil. I think I just had a dodgy coil.
chili1 said:
Stu T said:
Assuming you are referring to the nebox (which I don't have), one thought is that it hasn't recognised the new coil resistance:
Tip: Make sure when putting in a new coil, that when the Nebox asks if it is a new coil, you select yes, otherwise it will keep the resistance from the previous coil. If the device doesn’t ask this question, screw the cover off slightly and hit the fire button, so it shows 9.999ohms. Now when screwing the cap back on, it should ask you if you are using a new coil or not.
from
http://vaping360.com/kanger-nebox-review/
Sorry, I missed out the link from my original post. I've got one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/Authentic-Kangertech-Upgr...Tip: Make sure when putting in a new coil, that when the Nebox asks if it is a new coil, you select yes, otherwise it will keep the resistance from the previous coil. If the device doesn’t ask this question, screw the cover off slightly and hit the fire button, so it shows 9.999ohms. Now when screwing the cap back on, it should ask you if you are using a new coil or not.
from
http://vaping360.com/kanger-nebox-review/
It did ask if it was a new coil. I think I just had a dodgy coil.
Just thought I would share my latest purchase. Ordered an authentic Eleaf Power, Clone Triton and 5 clone 0.5ohm coils from Fasttech for the princely sum of £37.00 delivered! Took about 3 weeks, as is normal. The Eleaf Power is 5000mah and 80w, I only tend to vape at about 40/45w and is lasting over 2 days or 7/8 tanks of juice, so well chuffed! The clone Triton is very well made and the coils seem spot on, see how long they last though, but at $9ish for 5, worth a punt!....
Started mixing my own juice now too, buy 70/30 premix at 3mg nicotine from vampire vape (dont want pure nicotine kicking around with kids and a dog!) and love experimenting with flavours... have T-Juice Red Astaire mixed with a little vampire vape Black Jack at the minute and it is lovely!!...
Started mixing my own juice now too, buy 70/30 premix at 3mg nicotine from vampire vape (dont want pure nicotine kicking around with kids and a dog!) and love experimenting with flavours... have T-Juice Red Astaire mixed with a little vampire vape Black Jack at the minute and it is lovely!!...
DuncB7 said:
Thanks.
Taking the Nebox back anyway; hopefully for a refund/exchange. RBA coil has become stuck in the tank and the base with the air intake has managed to remove itself completely. I can understand why this was so heavily discounted and received such poor reviews now. Total bag of ste.
I wasn't at all impressed with it. As I say, now using the Aspire Plato and much better execution of the same concept. Taking the Nebox back anyway; hopefully for a refund/exchange. RBA coil has become stuck in the tank and the base with the air intake has managed to remove itself completely. I can understand why this was so heavily discounted and received such poor reviews now. Total bag of ste.
DorisMk2 said:
Hi all,
Can anyone recommend anything similar to the X Bud Mecanica juice that's higher VG?
Gin, menthol and hibiscus!
I've also got an Aspire Triton tank that I've dropped and it's not quite right so looking for a similar tank or is this one still good for the job intended?
Thanks!
There are so many subtanks it's difficult to recommend - what are your personal pros and cons with the triton? Can anyone recommend anything similar to the X Bud Mecanica juice that's higher VG?
Gin, menthol and hibiscus!
I've also got an Aspire Triton tank that I've dropped and it's not quite right so looking for a similar tank or is this one still good for the job intended?
Thanks!
J8 SVG said:
There are so many subtanks it's difficult to recommend - what are your personal pros and cons with the triton?
I like the triton in many way. Top filling, doesn't leak and is cheap enough when brought from the right place.Just invested in a cleito 120 as its eating the juice but massive flavour and vape production at 60 to 90 watts!
Now to find some higher VG flavoured similar to mecanica!
Anyone tried/can recommend a temp control squonker?
Getting massively fed up with the crap flavour from the aspire plato with the juices I like, don't want to go back to my yihi/triton combo due to size, so thinking of something like the Lost Vape Therion...
Love the yihi at home with Druid rda, and want something similar with juice capacity.
Getting massively fed up with the crap flavour from the aspire plato with the juices I like, don't want to go back to my yihi/triton combo due to size, so thinking of something like the Lost Vape Therion...
Love the yihi at home with Druid rda, and want something similar with juice capacity.
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