Battery cable size
Discussion
Hi
I changed my battery to see if it helped the very slow turn over when hot, but no change, so i guess i need to check / replace the cables, the main cable from the battery is a very fine cored very flexible cable, is this normal? what spec and size of cable should i be looking for to replace them with?
Also what is recomended for conections, at the battery mine are currently soldered directly into the battery lug
Thanks
Paul
I changed my battery to see if it helped the very slow turn over when hot, but no change, so i guess i need to check / replace the cables, the main cable from the battery is a very fine cored very flexible cable, is this normal? what spec and size of cable should i be looking for to replace them with?
Also what is recomended for conections, at the battery mine are currently soldered directly into the battery lug
Thanks
Paul
Have a read here. Dave replaced his with 50mm cable.
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=110...
http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=110...
Edited by carsy on Monday 16th May 12:07
QBee said:
With the thicker new cable the theory is you shouldn't need the hot start mod.
The hot start mod is an improved power supply to the low current side of the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid and the starter motor are totally independent power supplies so increasing cable size to the motor won't help the solenoid to engage I chose to run that 50 mm cable linked to through some 20 mm flexible electrical conduit. I cable tied the conduit to the heater ducting away from most of the heat at the back of the engine and down the chassis to the starter.
I drilled a new hole in the bulkhead area adjacent to the battery to fix the conduit gland in to, when it was in place i pulled the larger cable through with a smaller one.
Not too bad a job, the lugs for the ends will require crimping with a suitable tool for a belt and braces job. I hired one for a day from my local wholesalers.
I drilled a new hole in the bulkhead area adjacent to the battery to fix the conduit gland in to, when it was in place i pulled the larger cable through with a smaller one.
Not too bad a job, the lugs for the ends will require crimping with a suitable tool for a belt and braces job. I hired one for a day from my local wholesalers.
Paulprior said:
So you recomend leaving the original earth and add a braided strap to the block, or replace the original as well?
Does anyone know the hole size for the crimps to fit the solenoid and starter motor, 6mm, 8mm?, just want to get them ordered ready for the weekend
Paul
Leave as is but add the cable. Does anyone know the hole size for the crimps to fit the solenoid and starter motor, 6mm, 8mm?, just want to get them ordered ready for the weekend
Paul
David Beer said:
Fit an additional earth braid from the battery negative to the first bolt on the block. Worked for many people. Halfords sell it
This worked for me , many thanks for the heads up, a bit of a struggle finding a bolt on the block that I could get to, but that's TVR's for you How / where did you route the extra earth, i looked at mine today and it comes back and up to under the dash, but i have zero access from the footwell as its behind the fibreglass, i will remove the dash tomorrow to see if i can see where the positive cable goes, reading the threads about fixing a draw wire to use to pull the new one in wont work for me because my positive cable goes up through the underside of the dash through some rubber tubing along with the main harness from the ECU.
Is it not possible to route the cables straight out of the footwell somewhere?
Is it not possible to route the cables straight out of the footwell somewhere?
Paulprior said:
How / where did you route the extra earth, i looked at mine today and it comes back and up to under the dash, but i have zero access from the footwell as its behind the fibreglass, i will remove the dash tomorrow to see if i can see where the positive cable goes, reading the threads about fixing a draw wire to use to pull the new one in wont work for me because my positive cable goes up through the underside of the dash through some rubber tubing along with the main harness from the ECU.
Is it not possible to route the cables straight out of the footwell somewhere?
Thats what I done straight from battery - through corner of footwell with a grommet straight onto the engine block you can never have enough grounds/earth returns Is it not possible to route the cables straight out of the footwell somewhere?
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