Removing exhaust downpipes to do oil change
Discussion
Morning
I've bought a new (to me) track bike - a GSXR-1000 K3. It's got a full Arrow system on it which does look and sound lovely.
One pain in the arse is that the routing of the pipes means that there is not enough room to get the oil filter off without taking the downpipes off. Anyone have this issue themselves and have any tips / anything I need to watch out for?
The headers are joined to the manifold with Allen bolts so it should be quite easy but there isn't loads of room down there (may have to unbolt and move the radiator too) and being a lazy fecker, I want to find a short cut.
Anyway... this is probably the crappest post on the forum today and TBH I am not expecting a better answer than "you bought it like that, just get on and take the pipes off you tt" but there we go
I've bought a new (to me) track bike - a GSXR-1000 K3. It's got a full Arrow system on it which does look and sound lovely.
One pain in the arse is that the routing of the pipes means that there is not enough room to get the oil filter off without taking the downpipes off. Anyone have this issue themselves and have any tips / anything I need to watch out for?
The headers are joined to the manifold with Allen bolts so it should be quite easy but there isn't loads of room down there (may have to unbolt and move the radiator too) and being a lazy fecker, I want to find a short cut.
Anyway... this is probably the crappest post on the forum today and TBH I am not expecting a better answer than "you bought it like that, just get on and take the pipes off you tt" but there we go
This is a lay opinion, and maybe I've misunderstood your post, but I'm really not convinced Suzuki would design a bike you need to take the downpipes off to change a filter. A quick Google reveals many people have issues getting a filter removal tool in place, but no talk of taking them off?
If access is piss poor, you can get a "specialist" tool to slide over the end of the filter, or stab it with a screw driver perhaps?
I'm not sure if you've done it before but when removing the header bolts, just bear in mind those bolts get a hard life, they may not be so easy to remove. That's how I come to buy my first stud extractor set (and many expensive Honda studs). So if you can avoid taking them off, that may be best.
Could be wrong on all accounts of course.
If access is piss poor, you can get a "specialist" tool to slide over the end of the filter, or stab it with a screw driver perhaps?
I'm not sure if you've done it before but when removing the header bolts, just bear in mind those bolts get a hard life, they may not be so easy to remove. That's how I come to buy my first stud extractor set (and many expensive Honda studs). So if you can avoid taking them off, that may be best.
Could be wrong on all accounts of course.
Cheers for replying to my pants post
Prof Prolapse said:
This is a lay opinion, and maybe I've misunderstood your post, but I'm really not convinced Suzuki would design a bike you need to take the downpipes off to change a filter.
I agree and have read that the GSXR is actually a very easy bike to do an oil change on as the filter is easily accessible - I suspect it's simply that this arrow system is badly designed from the point of view of oil filter accessProf Prolapse said:
I'm not sure if you've done it before but when removing the header bolts, just bear in mind those bolts get a hard life, they may not be so easy to remove. So if you can avoid taking them off, that may be best.
That is my fear - frequent removal of the stud bolts and eventual rounding of Allen heads. I might proceed on the basis that the previous owner couldn't get his hands in there to get the filter off and see if I can do without removing headers though as it's a K&N, they are easy to remove generally so I am sure he would have tried that approach.Sebo,
My Yoshi full system on my GSXR1000K7 is exactly the same. The headers are on slip joints at the head end, so once I've removed the can, link pipe and 4-into-1 collector, I can swing the headers apart to remove the filter. Naturally, with an OE set of headers, there isn't a problem. You can imagine the issue looking at the pic below
My Yoshi full system on my GSXR1000K7 is exactly the same. The headers are on slip joints at the head end, so once I've removed the can, link pipe and 4-into-1 collector, I can swing the headers apart to remove the filter. Naturally, with an OE set of headers, there isn't a problem. You can imagine the issue looking at the pic below
MattOz said:
Sebo,
My Yoshi full system on my GSXR1000K7 is exactly the same. The headers are on slip joints at the head end, so once I've removed the can, link pipe and 4-into-1 collector, I can swing the headers apart to remove the filter. Naturally, with an OE set of headers, there isn't a problem. You can imagine the issue looking at the pic below
Yep that would be a tad tight..My Yoshi full system on my GSXR1000K7 is exactly the same. The headers are on slip joints at the head end, so once I've removed the can, link pipe and 4-into-1 collector, I can swing the headers apart to remove the filter. Naturally, with an OE set of headers, there isn't a problem. You can imagine the issue looking at the pic below
MattOz said:
Sebo,
My Yoshi full system on my GSXR1000K7 is exactly the same. The headers are on slip joints at the head end, so once I've removed the can, link pipe and 4-into-1 collector, I can swing the headers apart to remove the filter. Naturally, with an OE set of headers, there isn't a problem. You can imagine the issue looking at the pic below
Why are you using a triumph tool kit on the suzi ? My Yoshi full system on my GSXR1000K7 is exactly the same. The headers are on slip joints at the head end, so once I've removed the can, link pipe and 4-into-1 collector, I can swing the headers apart to remove the filter. Naturally, with an OE set of headers, there isn't a problem. You can imagine the issue looking at the pic below
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