Are you well dressed? A PH gentleman thread.

Are you well dressed? A PH gentleman thread.

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Discussion

RichB

51,516 posts

284 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
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LordGrover said:
craigjm said:
The trousers should sit on your true waist which for most people means that the waistband will be over their belly button. The bottom button of a two button suit should also be at this point.
While there's been a little debate about the exact positioning, your true waist is definitely higher than has become the norm in recent decades, which is often barely above hips.
Probably being older than most of you I can remember when the first "hipsters" hit the Kings Road and Carnaby Street in the '60s. From then on men's trousers have been cut lower on the waist. OK, so not as low as genuine hipsters (which incidentally should always have a huge belt & buckle) but lower than in the '50s.

Blown2CV

28,786 posts

203 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
quotequote all
LordGrover said:
craigjm said:
The trousers should sit on your true waist which for most people means that the waistband will be over their belly button. The bottom button of a two button suit should also be at this point.
While there's been a little debate about the exact positioning, your true waist is definitely higher than has become the norm in recent decades, which is often barely above hips.
urgh. I see now. True waist indeed. Sounds a bit 1940s

DavidJG

3,526 posts

132 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
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craigjm said:
snobetter said:
Sorry for taking the thread back to waistlines, but I never knew. As much as I'd love a bespoke suit, it's not going to happen, and for the next few years any expensive clothes are out. So to the point, is there anywhere I (6'2") could find true waistline trousers on the high street? I'm sure I've never seen any...
Not really as its not a style thats generally copied because people are used to trousers sitting on their hips. Some of the Savile Row tailors like Huntsman and William Hunt sell online and their ready to wear stuff is quite similar in style. The other option is somewhere like Cad and the Dandy on the row will make bespoke trousers for around the same cost as the Huntsman offering.
Unfortunately for the OP, Huntsman's prices are really rather high (OK, they're one of the most expensive on Savile Row). Gieves & Hawkes 'Off the peg' range have a fairly decent rise to them (not as much as they could, but better than most), and do get discounted from time to time - their discounted prices are actually quite reasonable. You could also look at a 'Made to Measure' option from a reasonable tailor, which won't cost you anywhere near as much as bespoke but should at least get the waist in the right place.

LordGrover

33,538 posts

212 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
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How highly (or otherwise) is Gieves and Hawkes rated? They have a shop down the road but what I've seen in the windows looks a little 'traditional' (dated).

craigjm

17,937 posts

200 months

Friday 23rd September 2016
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LordGrover said:
How highly (or otherwise) is Gieves and Hawkes rated? They have a shop down the road but what I've seen in the windows looks a little 'traditional' (dated).
As a Savile Row bespoke tailor its reputation went down the toilet a long time ago and current owners seem to want to turn it into a brand rather than a tailoring house. Their presence on Savile Row in arguably the best location is historical but even that has been made into more of a "store"

They do have quite a stuffy and old fashioned "house style" which is based on their military history I guess.

That is the one thing most people dont realise about The Row is that each house has its own style and its own personality and you need to find the one that suits you.

SebastienClement

1,950 posts

140 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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Yes / No / Maybe?

craigjm

17,937 posts

200 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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SebastienClement said:
Yes / No / Maybe?
Yes if you are over 50 and have a beard hehe
Definitely if you are a geography teacher
Maybe if you are a countrified hipster
No if you are under 50 and a city dweller who is not a teacher hehe

However....:

If you like it, feel comfortable and it makes you feel confident then yes 100%

Individual style should be just that and the first part of my post is, of course, in jest

Blown2CV

28,786 posts

203 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
quotequote all
craigjm said:
SebastienClement said:
Yes / No / Maybe?
Yes if you are over 50 and have a beard hehe
Definitely if you are a geography teacher
Maybe if you are a countrified hipster
No if you are under 50 and a city dweller who is not a teacher hehe

However....:

If you like it, feel comfortable and it makes you feel confident then yes 100%

Individual style should be just that and the first part of my post is, of course, in jest
the geography teacher comment is pretty overplayed tbh. It just gets applied to anyone in a blazer. I get it, you don't like blazers, but that doesn't mean they are never stylish.

CharlesdeGaulle

26,242 posts

180 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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SebastienClement said:


Yes / No / Maybe?
Yes overall, but the jarring part for me was the white stitching on the belt.

technodup

7,579 posts

130 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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SebastienClement said:


Yes / No / Maybe?
It's a no from me.

Jacket OK, I think. Can't see the elbows.
Are they brown cords? Or moleskin? Either way they have turn ups. And are brown ffs.
Shirt fine, although I personally don't do check.
Also, laces visible. (I know most would find that acceptable/normal but I find it untidy.

I do like the contrast on the shoes though. The burnished look of the toe compared to the rest of the upper.

craigjm

17,937 posts

200 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
quotequote all
Blown2CV said:
craigjm said:
SebastienClement said:
Yes / No / Maybe?
Yes if you are over 50 and have a beard hehe
Definitely if you are a geography teacher
Maybe if you are a countrified hipster
No if you are under 50 and a city dweller who is not a teacher hehe

However....:

If you like it, feel comfortable and it makes you feel confident then yes 100%

Individual style should be just that and the first part of my post is, of course, in jest
the geography teacher comment is pretty overplayed tbh. It just gets applied to anyone in a blazer. I get it, you don't like blazers, but that doesn't mean they are never stylish.
Read my last sentence hehe I actually have one quite similar

craigjm

17,937 posts

200 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
quotequote all
technodup said:
laces visible. (I know most would find that acceptable/normal but I find it untidy.
How do you make the laces invisible on shoes?
Some might find the lack of a closed bracket untidy hehe

DuncanM

6,169 posts

279 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
quotequote all
craigjm said:
Yes if you are over 50 and have a beard hehe
Definitely if you are a geography teacher
Maybe if you are a countrified hipster
No if you are under 50 and a city dweller who is not a teacher hehe

However....:

If you like it, feel comfortable and it makes you feel confident then yes 100%

Individual style should be just that and the first part of my post is, of course, in jest
Can I just say that this post absolutely sums up my feelings regarding clothing/ choice of clothing.

Well played Craig, spot on smile

gizlaroc

17,251 posts

224 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
quotequote all
technodup said:
t's a no from me.

Jacket OK, I think. Can't see the elbows.
Are they brown cords? Or moleskin? Either way they have turn ups. And are brown ffs.
Shirt fine, although I personally don't do check.
Also, laces visible. (I know most would find that acceptable/normal but I find it untidy.

I do like the contrast on the shoes though. The burnished look of the toe compared to the rest of the upper.
I really like some of the brown shades of trousers, as long as they are cut nicely.

Laces covered means you must be wearing trousers that make you look like a sailor, 1990s raver or Glaswegian, or maybe all 3. biggrin


I am really not a fan of the belt though with that lot.

DanL

6,203 posts

265 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
quotequote all
Blown2CV said:
the geography teacher comment is pretty overplayed tbh. It just gets applied to anyone in a blazer. I get it, you don't like blazers, but that doesn't mean they are never stylish.
It really doesn't - it's the tweed more than the blazer... I like a blazer, but I'm not a fan of tweed or shiny buttons. Each to their own though, and if you can carry it off why not?

hora

37,113 posts

211 months

Sunday 16th October 2016
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poing said:
g3org3y said:
yes

This is the kind of thing I had in mind (with a button down collar shirt):

Jacket and pyjama top, it's an interesting look for sure.
I'm v.late to this thread and I'm supposed to be getting some sleep. Cheers for making me laugh laugh ffs

technodup

7,579 posts

130 months

Monday 17th October 2016
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gizlaroc said:
Laces covered means you must be wearing trousers that make you look like a sailor, 1990s raver or Glaswegian, or maybe all 3. biggrin
I'm two out the three. smile

But the easiest way to achieve it is not to have laces at all. I don't wear laced shoes, with the exception of some trainers where they get tucked away. I hate the big loops flopping about. And when you see lace loops you usually see sock as well. Eurgh, not for me.

gizlaroc

17,251 posts

224 months

Monday 17th October 2016
quotequote all
technodup said:
'm two out the three. smile

But the easiest way to achieve it is not to have laces at all. I don't wear laced shoes, with the exception of some trainers where they get tucked away. I hate the big loops flopping about. And when you see lace loops you usually see sock as well. Eurgh, not for me.
Haha, I know, I said sailor and then thought I would add the other two. wink

I must admit I do like a nice Chelsea boot with a tailored trouser.

g3org3y

20,627 posts

191 months

Tuesday 10th January 2017
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Thread bump. smile

Had a discount code come through for TM Lewin.

20% off everything, including sale items. Enter code at checkout.

Expires tomorrow at midnight.

SVDJNW4D

Might be useful if anyone needs to stock up on shirts etc. smile

Blown2CV

28,786 posts

203 months

Tuesday 10th January 2017
quotequote all
g3org3y said:
Thread bump. smile

Had a discount code come through for TM Lewin.

20% off everything, including sale items. Enter code at checkout.

Expires tomorrow at midnight.

SVDJNW4D

Might be useful if anyone needs to stock up on shirts etc. smile
Good shout and definitely a cheap deal, but i've really gone off their shirts!!