Are you well dressed? A PH gentleman thread.

Are you well dressed? A PH gentleman thread.

Author
Discussion

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Wednesday 14th September 2016
quotequote all
gizlaroc said:
shopper150 said:
How do Sunspel compare with Hanro and Zimmerli?
Very similar, I was sent some Hanro sea island cotton boxers and have to say they are very nice, but also really expensive. No more than the Sunspel sea island boxer, but still, £80-95 on a pair of boxers isn't the easiest of sales. smile

I like Sunspel for their Polos and T Shirts rather than the underwear, which I think is great, but £80 for a polo vs £95 for a pair of pants sprt of makes the Polos look a bargain.
How would you say Sunspel polos stack up to John Smedley?

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Wednesday 14th September 2016
quotequote all
gizlaroc said:
I think the cut is better with Sunspel. and also the sea island from Smedley is very, very fine, so it shows every lump and bump.

We struggle with Smedley Sea Island, everyone loves it on the shelf, but when they try it on many find it too thin.


Sunspel Riviera...


Smedley Sea Island "Adrian"...



Personally I prefer the Sunspel. Plus you are talking £80 vs £125 that is a huge difference.

In fact I should consider swapping over to Sunspel from Smedley in store, just that Smedley has a loyal customer base.


The one brand we are flying is Slaith, classic Merino V and Crews, in a 24 gauge. Quality is better than any of them inmho.
They do a Merino Polo too, waiting for that to arrive, but looked really nice.
Thanks for the detailed write up. thumbup

I have a few of Smedley items (Sea Island and Merino/cashmere blend) and I also find Smedley cotton to be rather thin which for a summer weight pullover is fine for me but maybe not for a polo which is next to skin. The main attraction to Smedley for me is the history and the fashioned shoulders which I haven't encountered in other brands.

Which brand would you say offers the most contouring fit? My Smedley pullovers are still a little tent-like around the middle even in slim fit (though oddly my cardigan which is easy fit is nice and snug). confused

I will check out Slaith on your recommendation.

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Wednesday 14th September 2016
quotequote all
13m said:
The Smedley knits come up in all different fits. The Marcus, for example, is quite a slim fit and you won't get the tent effect.
Both the pullovers I have (Bampton and Luke) are slim fit and fit nicely around the chest and shoulders but aren't as tapered as I expected. The Gowan which is an easy fit is nice and snug everywhere.

I did size up for the slim fits (medium to large) but they assured me that was correct based on the chest measurements of the garment.

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Thursday 15th September 2016
quotequote all
Plain gold (or platinum) extra thin dress watch with a black leather strap would be very acceptable for black tie IMO.

Does anyone on here use a pocket watch?

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Thursday 15th September 2016
quotequote all
Goaty Bill 2 said:
InductionRoar said:
Plain gold (or platinum) extra thin dress watch with a black leather strap would be very acceptable for black tie IMO.

Does anyone on here use a pocket watch?
I did. But I found they were more wont to be lost or damaged than a wrist watch.
My father is, shall we say 'holding', a couple of really beautiful antique pocket watches and chains for me.
I am, as you would suppose, in no great hurry to receive them.
I would love a pocket watch but think it would likely just end up collecting dust.

They do seem exceptional value for money though so man maths could quite easily justify such a purchase.


InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Monday 19th September 2016
quotequote all
Trabi601 said:
Not half as boring as the 20-30 year olds who are dressing like pensioners!
If it bores you why are you still here?

Trabi601 said:
I mean, I know PH has a very unique demographic, but the shoes and gentleman threads are just utterly laughable.
Your use of the word very shares a similarity with most of your posts on this forum.

Trabi601 said:
Talk about old before your time!
Lucky we have you to redress the actual to mental age balance then isn't it?

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Tuesday 20th September 2016
quotequote all
craigjm said:
I take it that is aimed at me so I shall respond. I am lucky enough to be able to afford to buy bespoke fitted Savile Row hand made suits. However, when I was younger I could not dream of spending like that. The post was aimed at taking all of the things that make a bespoke Savile Row suit what they are and point out all the things you can look for on an off the peg suit or how to have it altered so it looks as expensive and well fitting as it can nothing more. Advice that I would have liked to have heard when I was buying off the peg suits.

Oh and for the record. I do not own any sports jackets or tweed outfits
I for one found the post very helpful and I think I speak for everybody apart from our resident troll when I say that.

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Tuesday 20th September 2016
quotequote all
Trabi601 said:
"Sports jacket"

That's something my dad owned.

He's been dead a decade and was born in the 1920s.
I bet he wore shoes as well, didn't he?

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Tuesday 20th September 2016
quotequote all
DuncanM said:
Just reading the long post about suits:

The trousers should sit on your true waist which for most people means that the waistband will be over their belly button. The bottom button of a two button suit should also be at this point.

Really? How many people are wearing suits with the waistband on their belly button nowadays?
Very few. Jeans have a lot to answer for.

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Tuesday 20th September 2016
quotequote all
13m said:
InductionRoar said:
13m said:
The Smedley knits come up in all different fits. The Marcus, for example, is quite a slim fit and you won't get the tent effect.
Both the pullovers I have (Bampton and Luke) are slim fit and fit nicely around the chest and shoulders but aren't as tapered as I expected. The Gowan which is an easy fit is nice and snug everywhere.

I did size up for the slim fits (medium to large) but they assured me that was correct based on the chest measurements of the garment.
They're pretty helpful on the phone, and will advise regarding the best size to choose, based upon previous successful purchases.

Or perhaps a better option, if one has a Gizlaroc Gentleman's Outfitters locally, is calling in to a retail store. Whatever the route, though, there is a huge difference between fit and sizing between models.
I spoke to one of their assistants via their chat function about this and she was adamant that all their pullovers fit the same within their designated fit (slim, standard and easy) but cardigans are cut differently so are not comparable though they also fit the same within their own designations too.

She said that slim fit is their most contoured so assuming the chest measurement is correct (which it is) there is not a more fitted option available.

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Wednesday 21st September 2016
quotequote all
g3org3y said:
I looked at this photo and thought "he's never bought two jackets the same" then the penny dropped. hehe

Very nice and as you say looks like new.

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Friday 24th November 2017
quotequote all
What is the benefit of a bespoke Lockwood brolly, as opposed to say, an off the peg Maglia or Talarico?

I must confess the appeal of a bespoke brolly is not wasted on me, however, the picture on their website suggests that they are all made too long with just the ferule end cut shorter to suit the customer. If that is the case then I don't see the value personally. I have a few Italian brollys and they represent a considerable step up from the English makers I am familiar with, however, Lockwood are a brand that I have not come across before. It is nice that they are made in London, which James Smith are not, and that the buttons are horn, but how much is that worth? If going down the bespoke route, I would want a much larger choice in canopy and handle materials, but if they make what you want then I don't see that you will be disappointed.

My only solid stick brolly is twice the weight of my fit ups and can be quite unwieldy, but nice nonetheless.


InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Friday 24th November 2017
quotequote all
craigjm said:
Lockwood was just an example. Fox, Pickett and smith and sons have also been suggested. It’s not something I would normally look at but a client wants to buy me one as a Christmas present so I can’t reallh refuse. I will visit all four and make a choice. Will be nice to have something unique to me and the right length. Better not leave it on the tube at those prices though!
A nice problem to have. smile

Whatever you choose, you won't be disappointed.

It may be of interest that James Smith import their handles ready made from "the continent", if such matters bother you. The two Italian makers I referred to in my post bend their handles on site. I went into James Smith's earlier in the year and came away feeling that my Maglia and Talaricos were a far superior product (and were also cheaper).

InductionRoar

Original Poster:

2,014 posts

133 months

Wednesday 13th February 2019
quotequote all
craigjm said:
Overall D said:
This is all well and good, but what do resident style gurus suggest as a head gear in a convertible? Personally, having a distinctively eastern european face, a flat cap just looks cheesy and if I wear a baseball cap people around start checking their wallets haven't gone missing hehe
A truly stylish gentleman would not be seen dead in a convertible. They are for the ladies and geriatrics trying to relive their youth