Suzuki Bandit 600 Slow dropping revs!
Discussion
Hi, I recently bought a Suzuki bandit 1998 600, been sitting for 5 years. (Apparently) the person I bought it off ran it for a couple days then couldn't use it. So he was selling it.
Obviously I thought stale petrol, so cleaned carbs (all green inside) and happy days it started and runs!
But on the comedown after revving it takes a long time to come back down to idle revs. Before I put it in to get carb balanced I was wondering if anyone could help me out by just shedding some light on something I may have missed or even if Im going down the right route! 14k miles and I think the engine is fine.
All help and commentsupport would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
Obviously I thought stale petrol, so cleaned carbs (all green inside) and happy days it started and runs!
But on the comedown after revving it takes a long time to come back down to idle revs. Before I put it in to get carb balanced I was wondering if anyone could help me out by just shedding some light on something I may have missed or even if Im going down the right route! 14k miles and I think the engine is fine.
All help and commentsupport would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks.
It sounds like it may have an air leak, have you reconnected any pipework correctly and checked for splits?
Is there a split or ill fitting diaphragm in a carb top, has the linkage between the carbs been disturbed, did you disturb the float heights when cleaning out the bowls, is there a leaky float?
One thing to bear in mind when dealing with bikes that have stood is that there may have been an existing problem before it was stored.
Is there a split or ill fitting diaphragm in a carb top, has the linkage between the carbs been disturbed, did you disturb the float heights when cleaning out the bowls, is there a leaky float?
One thing to bear in mind when dealing with bikes that have stood is that there may have been an existing problem before it was stored.
Yea I see what your saying. If there was an existing problem before it was stored, as long as it's not the engine it should still be able to be fixed!
I very possibly did disturb the float heights when I was cleaning, and the idle jets were completely block and couldn't see through them. I've blown them out and sprayed everything up, do you think it's worth getting them set up then?
Thanks for the replies.
I very possibly did disturb the float heights when I was cleaning, and the idle jets were completely block and couldn't see through them. I've blown them out and sprayed everything up, do you think it's worth getting them set up then?
Thanks for the replies.
Did you clean the carb bodie's passages for the pilot jets or just the jets themselves. Slow dropping of revs is usually a running lean indicator. Air leaks or partially blocked pilot system plus low float heights can all cause these symptoms.
Then again, it might just be a poorly adjusted or dirty throttle cable. Does the throttle "snap" shut under its own return spring power? Another possible is sticky or dirty butterflys not closing fully.
Then again, it might just be a poorly adjusted or dirty throttle cable. Does the throttle "snap" shut under its own return spring power? Another possible is sticky or dirty butterflys not closing fully.
Edited by 3200gt on Sunday 26th June 15:25
Wildfire said:
Carl-H said:
I'd go with an air leak first. Spray something flammable all round the carbs and intake. If revs rise try and diagnose with the spray roughly where the leak is
Surely you mean nonflammable?
To add some value to the thread, As mentioned above, spray something like WD40 around the carbs/intake and see if the revs rise, it does sound like an air leak
Wildfire said:
Why would the revs rise?
Honest question, I've never heard of that method before? It may help me as I have a very similar problem with a set of carbs for my Monster.
In layman's terms, The "flammable liquid" will be drawn into the air intake/combustion chamber and be ignited along with the fuel/air, thus essentially adding more fuel into the mix.Honest question, I've never heard of that method before? It may help me as I have a very similar problem with a set of carbs for my Monster.
Result - Small rise in revs
RizzoTheRat said:
Carb cleaner or easystart mike make more sense than WD40 which will leave some residue on the bits you spray it on.
Agreed Carb Cleaner / Easystart is a better tool for the job, i normally only suggest WD40 as most households tend to have some laying around 
Wildfire said:
Ah right.. For some reason (Monday morning syndrome), I had visions of coating the outside of the carbs in flammable liquid....
Into the intake makes more sense now...
You spray the carb cleaner around the outside of the carbs where the carb mounts to the intake rubber. If there's a split, the carb cleaner will get pulled through the split and make the revs rise as it's additional fuel to go with the excessive air. Spraying it intot the intakes is pointless. Into the intake makes more sense now...
Another little trick is to get a piece of rubber hose, open the airbox and putting the hose to your ear, listen to each inlet to see if any of them are sucking in more air....
Steve Bass said:
You spray the carb cleaner around the outside of the carbs where the carb mounts to the intake rubber. If there's a split, the carb cleaner will get pulled through the split and make the revs rise as it's additional fuel to go with the excessive air. Spraying it intot the intakes is pointless.
Another little trick is to get a piece of rubber hose, open the airbox and putting the hose to your ear, listen to each inlet to see if any of them are sucking in more air....
Ok... I now understand. I may try this next time when I have go no. 4 million at changing my carbs. Although I suspect it's actually the pilot circuit that need resetting. Another little trick is to get a piece of rubber hose, open the airbox and putting the hose to your ear, listen to each inlet to see if any of them are sucking in more air....
Steve Bass said:
Another little trick is to get a piece of rubber hose, open the airbox and putting the hose to your ear, listen to each inlet to see if any of them are sucking in more air....
Doesn't always follow; some Suzuki GSX 4's needed the outer carbs set to flow a bit more air at idle than the inboard pair... so they hissed more.Gassing Station | Biker Banter | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff