2006 wrx sti uk- what to look for
Discussion
Hi
i went to test drive a 2006 wrX Sti yesterday,
The camebelt was changed at 50,000 miles but none after that. it is now at 91,000 miles.
i am a complete subaru novice- can someone here please tell me the pitfalls of Subaru- and how much does it cost to fix when things go wrong?
how much does cambelt cost to change?
also, what the bhp on these cars? i have seen both 261bhp and 280bhp figures
i may buy the car saturday so would appreciate any helpful advice asap please
regards
K
i went to test drive a 2006 wrX Sti yesterday,
The camebelt was changed at 50,000 miles but none after that. it is now at 91,000 miles.
i am a complete subaru novice- can someone here please tell me the pitfalls of Subaru- and how much does it cost to fix when things go wrong?
how much does cambelt cost to change?
also, what the bhp on these cars? i have seen both 261bhp and 280bhp figures
i may buy the car saturday so would appreciate any helpful advice asap please
regards
K
A full service with Cambelt will be somewhere between £400 - £500.
The engines are fine up to 400bhp so if it's modified you just need to be sure it been done well and remapped. If it's modified and not been remapped that's where problems can and do occur.
The gearboxes are nigh on indestructible as as the diffs generally.
It's done nearly 100K miles and although that doesn't mean much i'd hope it was a good deal for a high miler.
So long as it still drives nice and tight, not too many creaks and groans from the cabin, no knocks and clangs from the suspension, clutch feels OK and is still biting half way up (once it starts biting at the top it's not that long before you'll need a new one) no engine rattle between 2000-3000rpm, no knocking (can hear light knock on a feathered throttle with your head under the engine), or tapping from the head area, you should be good to go.
The engines are fine up to 400bhp so if it's modified you just need to be sure it been done well and remapped. If it's modified and not been remapped that's where problems can and do occur.
The gearboxes are nigh on indestructible as as the diffs generally.
It's done nearly 100K miles and although that doesn't mean much i'd hope it was a good deal for a high miler.
So long as it still drives nice and tight, not too many creaks and groans from the cabin, no knocks and clangs from the suspension, clutch feels OK and is still biting half way up (once it starts biting at the top it's not that long before you'll need a new one) no engine rattle between 2000-3000rpm, no knocking (can hear light knock on a feathered throttle with your head under the engine), or tapping from the head area, you should be good to go.
the car is standard
i drove it albeit it was about 1 mile, the clutch was heavy. i did not even think about knocking noises, i didnt hear any but wasnt paying too much attention, thanks, i will need to go and have another look at it and check for that
how much bhp is the standard car?
how much does it cost to get a new clutch? its 91k miles, at 7k, is that too much? its got fssh
thanks for advice
i drove it albeit it was about 1 mile, the clutch was heavy. i did not even think about knocking noises, i didnt hear any but wasnt paying too much attention, thanks, i will need to go and have another look at it and check for that
how much bhp is the standard car?
how much does it cost to get a new clutch? its 91k miles, at 7k, is that too much? its got fssh
thanks for advice
265ish + or - a little bit so if it's standard i would start with some sympathetic mods so as Paulmoonraker has suggested nice exhaust system, with a flat panel air filter, walbro fuel pump, and decent remap.
It's done a lot of mileage as standard so i wouldn't go for the full monty 340-350bhp, i would be thinking about 320 for now, run that for a while (4000-5000miles) to see how it goes and then once it's had some time at that level of tune get your remap tweaked to squeeze the rest out.
Whatever you map it to there should be sufficient torque to pull tractors with it and give you many smiles per mile for a good while
It's done a lot of mileage as standard so i wouldn't go for the full monty 340-350bhp, i would be thinking about 320 for now, run that for a while (4000-5000miles) to see how it goes and then once it's had some time at that level of tune get your remap tweaked to squeeze the rest out.
Whatever you map it to there should be sufficient torque to pull tractors with it and give you many smiles per mile for a good while
ive been checking out the classifieds, and all the sti's ive seen have a big spoiler, the one i have seen had small spoiler on the back, but it had intercooler spray in car, the diff settings , red dials, and sti cover on engine. how can i tell if its a real STI? its got a 6 speed manual box, and its 2.5 litres.
at first i dont want a remap, i just want to be able to get used to the performance first, and not have the car breaking down on me as soon as i buy it. it certainly felt quick when i drove it, but not amazingly quick like a c63amg i drove last year
at first i dont want a remap, i just want to be able to get used to the performance first, and not have the car breaking down on me as soon as i buy it. it certainly felt quick when i drove it, but not amazingly quick like a c63amg i drove last year
The Subaru has 265bhp and is very quick out of the box for what it is but it doesn't have double the power which the AMG has so, give the scooby same power as the AMG and the AMG won't see which way it went and then some. Spec D is a good way forward. Looks like a WRX but has all the STi goodies. Everything you've said is a pretty good indicator you're buying an STi
K321 said:
Well I sorted the cash,got the insurance sorted but ive decided not to buy it as I heard the 2,5 engine is prone to,head gasket failure and costs a fortune to fix
Really? Francis?..Anyway, get a 2005 car with the daft spoiler... Such a better car
revs like my M3 ... All the way past 8K! Head gasket failure isn't common on 2.5's and is no different to rocker covers leaking on 2ltr cars. A handful do these things but it's not a general/common problem. It's more likely you'll get rear inverted shockers knocking on a BlobEye than you will HGF on a Hawkeye.
The 2005 BlobEye widetrack is a bloody good car but there is nothing wrong with the 2.5 Sti either. The Hawkeyes do have an advantage though in terms of torque and the gearbox is even tougher than the already super tough 2ltr boxes due to some of the carbon treated internals parts of the 2.5box.
It's all about personal preference though and the depth of your pockets.
The 2005 BlobEye widetrack is a bloody good car but there is nothing wrong with the 2.5 Sti either. The Hawkeyes do have an advantage though in terms of torque and the gearbox is even tougher than the already super tough 2ltr boxes due to some of the carbon treated internals parts of the 2.5box.
It's all about personal preference though and the depth of your pockets.
If it was me I would be looking for a 55 plate blob eye. It'll have the best chassis, the best interior (if you can ignore the blue dials) and the best seats. I put 50k on a 2.5L and had no issues with it and since you're looking at 6 to 8 year old cars now you're going to run into some issues, small probably, anyway. Just get one with a full history and go into it with open eyes. Any Subaru with anything less than perfect history will cause you trouble sooner or later. Find a good private one that you can get a good idea of the owner from and you'll be fine.
Don't dismiss the Bugeye STI as that has the strongest engine of all as it's forged right out the box. Amazing value nowadays too.
Don't dismiss the Bugeye STI as that has the strongest engine of all as it's forged right out the box. Amazing value nowadays too.
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