1999 UK turbo - what to look for?
Discussion
http://www.scoobypedia.co.uk/index.php/BuyingGuide...
a reasonable starting point and full of decent information.
Things to look out for are seized pistons in calipers, a hesitant acceleration when on boost, puff of blue smoke on start up from cold, rusty rear arches etc
a reasonable starting point and full of decent information.
Things to look out for are seized pistons in calipers, a hesitant acceleration when on boost, puff of blue smoke on start up from cold, rusty rear arches etc
Edited by amccan10 on Friday 9th August 12:53
Make sure the receipts are available for the belt change and cross verify with the garage who did it. Check the radiator for leaks, mine had corroded seams and had started to leak. Belts, water pump and rad expensive repairs. Make sure the water pump was changed with the belt.
Rear arches rust from the inside where the dirt sticks, put your hand under the arch and feel if it has been cleaned out. A few hundred pounds to fix if coming through as they have to be cut and welded for a proper repair. Car should feel planted, no clonks or bangs (a bit of trim squeak is normal I'm told) and perform without hesitation. Gears should slot easily without play (reverse can be awkward at times). Car should brake and track true. Do the usual checks for oil/water contamination and accident damage. Take a magnet to check sills and wings for filler.
Look at the state of the wheels put on the car, are the rims chewed up with no tread left on the tyres - what might that say about how the car has been looked after or abused, or is everything in fine fettle because the owner is an enthusiast.
Bought mine last year for £2.5k and spent £2.5k since putting it right and that was a good 'un to start with. Remember it is a 12+ year old car, things will need replacing at some point.
Rear arches rust from the inside where the dirt sticks, put your hand under the arch and feel if it has been cleaned out. A few hundred pounds to fix if coming through as they have to be cut and welded for a proper repair. Car should feel planted, no clonks or bangs (a bit of trim squeak is normal I'm told) and perform without hesitation. Gears should slot easily without play (reverse can be awkward at times). Car should brake and track true. Do the usual checks for oil/water contamination and accident damage. Take a magnet to check sills and wings for filler.
Look at the state of the wheels put on the car, are the rims chewed up with no tread left on the tyres - what might that say about how the car has been looked after or abused, or is everything in fine fettle because the owner is an enthusiast.
Bought mine last year for £2.5k and spent £2.5k since putting it right and that was a good 'un to start with. Remember it is a 12+ year old car, things will need replacing at some point.
I bought what I would say was a good UK Turbo last November and have still spent a small fortune (see my garage) although it has only really let me down once which was when a brake caliper seized.
History is a must and I would look for a low-owner car (I'm only 3rd owner of mine) and the nearer standard the better. In terms of wheels I'd say the standard 16" are best from a ride comfort and tyre replacement cost point of view.
Nearly all these cars have some corrosion on the rear arches, though obviously some are a lot worse than others. The original downpipe may well be leaky/rotten by now (mine was) and a direct replacement may be expensive/hard to find.
I'll repeat what was said about the gearchange; selecting reverse is occasionally tricky and you have to be almost stationary to take first (no syncro on first I was told). I had the gearbox/diff oils changed on mine for peace of mind.
If you get a good one it will be an absolute treat, so long as you are prepared for the running costs and drive it with a degree of mechanical sympathy.
History is a must and I would look for a low-owner car (I'm only 3rd owner of mine) and the nearer standard the better. In terms of wheels I'd say the standard 16" are best from a ride comfort and tyre replacement cost point of view.
Nearly all these cars have some corrosion on the rear arches, though obviously some are a lot worse than others. The original downpipe may well be leaky/rotten by now (mine was) and a direct replacement may be expensive/hard to find.
I'll repeat what was said about the gearchange; selecting reverse is occasionally tricky and you have to be almost stationary to take first (no syncro on first I was told). I had the gearbox/diff oils changed on mine for peace of mind.
If you get a good one it will be an absolute treat, so long as you are prepared for the running costs and drive it with a degree of mechanical sympathy.
Edited by HonestIago on Tuesday 20th August 14:56
I did love mine, although they are pretty piss poor on fuel IMO. I get 23-26mpg out of mine and that's on super unleaded.
While they feel planted and go well, they do have a lot of body roll if you are used to driving 2 seat sports cars.
Just watch for rust and make sure it runs sweet. That said, mine was great, until the bottom end started knocking!!!! :angry: No way to tell it was going to do this either. But it's looking like a pricey repair.
While they feel planted and go well, they do have a lot of body roll if you are used to driving 2 seat sports cars.
Just watch for rust and make sure it runs sweet. That said, mine was great, until the bottom end started knocking!!!! :angry: No way to tell it was going to do this either. But it's looking like a pricey repair.
Gassing Station | Subaru | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff