rear disc and pad change...how hard can it be ?

[bananaman1]

Moneys abit tight this month. ..and my wrxs hatch is in need of new discs and pads :-(....I'm no mechanic. ...but pretty good with my hands (carpenter ) so going to have a stab at it myself :-)....any idea if theres a step by step guide available on line for this model.
Thanks bman.

[bananaman1]

And....any tips on best place to buy the parts....thanks again :-)

[bananaman1]

Gazing into my crystal ball....I see a future topic titled....HELP...I think I have knackered my car :-)

[New POD]

I've done Honda accord, cavalier, mini, and mx5 rear brakes, and in all cases the relevant owners forum, had a how to guide with pictures and a list of the tools needed.

I assume that someone will be along to point you to that special place.

[Fonzey]

If you've got Brembo's like on the older Hawk/Blob cars - be wary.

I did my disks/pads earlier in the year and the caliper bolts had calcified into the calipers - needed them machining out and the holes re-tapping.

Other than that though, the job is literally two bolts per corner and two retaining pins - you can't go wrong.

[bananaman1]

Says Subaru on the caliper...so I assume not brembo.

[markCSC]

I'm guessing they are a single piston sliding caliper? If so easy, peasy.

Removal

• Jack up car
• Support on axle stand
• Choc wheels that you aren't working on
• Remove wheel
• Make sure handbrake is off
• Undo caliper bolts (they are behind the caliper)
• support caliper (an upturned bucket does a good job)
• Remove pads from caliper
• The disc probably won't come off easily so you might need to slacken off the hand brake by turning the adjuster in the rear drum. To access it find a little rubber bung on the rear hand brake drum. Remove bung and then see note in the image below.

Install

• Give everything a good scrub with a wire brush and a blast with brake cleaner
• Remove anti-corrosion covering on new disc (wife's nail varnish remove is good for this)
• Install disc
• Undo brake fluid reservoir cap in engine bay and put a rag around to catch any spills.
• Use a g-clamp to press the piston back in to the caliper
• If new pads have metal shims, install these on the back of the pads. If they don't, just put a bit of cooper grease on the back of the pad.
• If you have new pad guides, install these, otherwise give the old ones a really good clean.
• Put pads in caliper and install caliper over the disc.
• Do up bolts.
• Put cap on brake fluid reservoir
• Lower car
• Pump brakes until solid.

Make sure you bed the new discs and pads in correctly. Normally this means no heavy or sustained braking for about 200 miles but some pad compounds have a different procedure.





Oh and for suppliers, have a chat with Ian at http://www.godspeedbrakes.co.uk/

Edited by markCSC on Monday 2nd December 11:47

[adamfraser]

WRX-S has the handbrake adjustment on the front of the disc.

PM me if you need any advice - I work on them every day!

[markCSC]

Thanks Adam, I assumed they would be the same as the old ones


oh and workshop manuals can be downloaded from http://www.mediafire.com/?bp5js3yjgcc62#1hkwc5dck3...

[adamfraser]

Yeah, it's so much easier when you can see directly at the adjuster!

[bananaman1]

Cheers chaps ,that's just the info I was looking for .....seem to remember reading something about using copper grease where the pads sit in the caliper,to lessen squeal.....good idea ?

[adamfraser]

Copper slip on the pads at the edges where it sits in the saddle and (personal preference) I also put it on the pad where it meets the piston for the inside pad and where it touches the caliper of the outside pad.

Also, if you are putting new pads in - whilst the saddle is off, take the metal clips out the saddle and give the saddle a bloody good clean with a wire brush/file. A lot of crap gets under there and can make a pad change a nightmare! Obviously, clean underside of clip before refitting aswell

[v8250]

adamfraser said:

Copper slip on the pads at the edges where it sits in the saddle and (personal preference) I also put it on the pad where it meets the piston for the inside pad and where it touches the caliper of the outside pad.

Also, if you are putting new pads in - whilst the saddle is off, take the metal clips out the saddle and give the saddle a bloody good clean with a wire brush/file. A lot of crap gets under there and can make a pad change a nightmare! Obviously, clean underside of clip before refitting aswell

This+1.

OP, fitted new discs and pads all round on mine last month. It's a doddle of a job - if your first time, find a dry day, take your time and refit in a really good clean condition. Methylated spirit works well at cleaning off the brake dust and crud; though do not breath in the brake dust, it's not good for you. Have fun at losing your brake changing virginity...

[bananaman1]

Thanks all....feeling a lot more confident about tackling this now .

[72twink]

Once it's all stripped down and you start the rebuild and the new disc is on, spin one wheel nut on finger tight (I use the locking nut as it's open) to clamp the disc to the hub, that stops the disc slipping off just as you've fitted the pads and are reaching for the calliper - just remember to remove it before refitting the wheel

[Art0ir]

Set aside double the time you think it will take, especially for first time.

[bananaman1]

Ordering parts tomorrow....setting aside all of next Saturday ....just incase

[Art0ir]

Just remember to support the caliper on something sturdy and don't knock it off

[bananaman1]

Right ! (rolls up sleeves) time to crack on :-)

[bananaman1]

Help !!!!!!!! Disc not coming off ....the hand brake adjuster does not look like the picture....seems to be a pin with a spring wrapped round it....any ideas ?