Roundabouts in the wet
Discussion
Ditched all the tyres and now have a set of Uniroyal Rainsport 3's all round which felt very grippy this morning in the wet.
Confidence not all back yet though and I haven't been round that roundabout again.
I did a Car Limits day not so long ago and was told to bury the foot hard on the brake, hands off the steering wheel whenever a skid happens. The spin the other day happened so fast I don't think I remembered what I had been taught. I certainly didn't accelerate out of it.
Just sat there like a pillock.
Confidence not all back yet though and I haven't been round that roundabout again.
I did a Car Limits day not so long ago and was told to bury the foot hard on the brake, hands off the steering wheel whenever a skid happens. The spin the other day happened so fast I don't think I remembered what I had been taught. I certainly didn't accelerate out of it.
Just sat there like a pillock.
bonesX said:
993kimbo said:
...was told to bury the foot hard on the brake, hands off the steering wheel whenever a skid happens...
That's interesting advice 
Did you mean to do this when in a spin?+1 on the geo
As much neg camber and a little toe-in all round
therby making things worse. Once you've been taught to use correct hand position to wind the lock on and off accurately the it can be done beneficially. But doing it badly is what leads to fishtailing. So basically if you can't make accurate steering inputs (ie if you just spin the wheel as much as you can) then you'd be better making no inputs.
I've found in the Forester (with Geolanders on the front and Falkens on the back, no ARB mods) that when it understeers a quick lift off then step on the throttle it goes round absolutely planted. Sure that'll bite me at some point!! Never managed to provoke the rear to step out though, not that I try too much.
mrmr96 said:
Good on you for swapping the tyres, but I'll return to my original point and suggest you get the full geometry checked/setup by someone who knows what they are doing. (PS this doesn't mean a fast fit place doing the "tracking".)
Done a few more miles now and everything seems very nice. Steering wheel was a touch shaky at 60mph but that seems to have gone since fitting the tyres. No knocks or creaks from suspension. Feels very smooth. Corners flat and very neutral.Do you still think I need a Geo?
I've been told by a fair few driving instructors that both feet in if it's all going very wrong;
lets the cars systems try and take back some control;
it does take a bit of a leap of faith, as we all try to 'save' the situation when it happens !
However, given the chance to try it several times (Porsche driving school at Silverstone) on a variety of surfaces & speeds, and can honestly say that it works a damn site better than me trying to control it on my own !
The electronic systems on modern car really do help out;
don't forget those four little patches of rubber are your only contact with the road though - always buy the best here
lets the cars systems try and take back some control;
it does take a bit of a leap of faith, as we all try to 'save' the situation when it happens !
However, given the chance to try it several times (Porsche driving school at Silverstone) on a variety of surfaces & speeds, and can honestly say that it works a damn site better than me trying to control it on my own !
The electronic systems on modern car really do help out;
don't forget those four little patches of rubber are your only contact with the road though - always buy the best here
993kimbo said:
mrmr96 said:
Good on you for swapping the tyres, but I'll return to my original point and suggest you get the full geometry checked/setup by someone who knows what they are doing. (PS this doesn't mean a fast fit place doing the "tracking".)
Done a few more miles now and everything seems very nice. Steering wheel was a touch shaky at 60mph but that seems to have gone since fitting the tyres. No knocks or creaks from suspension. Feels very smooth. Corners flat and very neutral.Do you still think I need a Geo?
Impreza alignment is not much more different than quite a few, and therefore should cost no more.
I pay £50 max at my local Chemix who use a Hunter system
I do however know exactly what I'm after as far as settings go - which are only a tad different from the Hunter database settings
I've been taking all my Subarus there for quite a few years, the tech knows how to wiggle max caber from the rears, and get the best out the front camber bolts. The readings he sets are almost identically the same each side
I pay £50 max at my local Chemix who use a Hunter system
I do however know exactly what I'm after as far as settings go - which are only a tad different from the Hunter database settings
I've been taking all my Subarus there for quite a few years, the tech knows how to wiggle max caber from the rears, and get the best out the front camber bolts. The readings he sets are almost identically the same each side
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