Ensuring continued reliability of MY00 UK Turbo

[HonestIago]

I have recently decided life is too short to commute by train and thus will be sticking a fair few extra miles on my Impreza Turbo. I also now have commitments which could entail semi regular longer runs (150+ miles). I have no plans to replace or ever sell the car so am looking to make sure it's in tip top mechanical condition for years to come, and don't object to spending money accordingly. I have breakdown cover but really want to avoid it letting me down. As such I'm wondering what components are worth replacing as a matter of course on a 14yo/90k mile scoob?

In my (sub 2 year) ownership it has had:
-new timing and AC belts
-replaced gearbox/diff oils
-refurbished 4-pots on the front
-rear calipers serviced earlier this year
-replaced rusty down-pipe
-new discs/pads all round
-new shocks/springs all round
-full geometry check and adjustments
-new air flow meter each year
-oil/filter changes every 5k or less
-new battery a few months ago

It needs another oil change soon and was thinking of getting the fuel pump replaced with a new Walbro 255lph one at the same time. Anything else anyone can think of? In terms of things that could pack up and leave one stranded?

Input appreciated, thanks!

Edited by HonestIago on Monday 18th August 15:52

Edited by HonestIago on Monday 18th August 15:53

[scoobychris555]

Radiator and hoses? I have had 2 radiators start to fail on my newage cars and a top hose fail on my classic many moons ago. Check rocker gaskets for seeping oil but this is unlikely to leave you stranded by the side of the road.

Good luck

[HonestIago]

Thanks for that, any thoughts on good replacements? Is the OE radiator from Scoobyworld a good bet would you say?

[RB5Bird]

Another shout for radiator and hoses. Mine has only let me down once, and that was clutch failure. That could have happened at any time, it wasn't worn out, just failed.

the radiator replaced not long after I got it, the top hose failed a couple of years after, replaced with Samco ones.

Other than that, just service it regularly.

[Jazzy Jefferson]

How are the rear arches for rust?

It's becoming apparent to me that the engine and what not will last for a while. The bodywork will not.

[HonestIago]

Cheers RB5Bird - never knew clutches could just fail, always thought they just wore out over time.

Have booked it in next month for an oil/filter change as well as a new radiator, hoses and fuel pump. A worthwhile investment now, especially as my desire for a bigger turbo/injectors/remap next year grows ever stronger...

Jazzy Jefferson - arches are going but not as bad as some classics I've seen. I've tetrasealed them as a short term solution but longer term I fully anticipate a proper repair and respray costing ££££!

[NormalWisdom]

Another vote for Rad and hoses, mine went about 3 years ago. Clutch also started slipping around 90k miles.

Mine has been with me in Munich all this year.

I have done 125k in mine, added 12k already this year. Have done 5 x 750 mile non-stop trips home, spent last weekend doing 850 miles around the Swiss/Italian alps - Mine has behaved beautifully this year (and in the 4 years I have had it). Driving back in a fortnight to treat it to some TLC by my local Subaru dealer. And even on the "Alpine Hoon" it returned 29mpg (averaging about 32mpg this year).

[RB5Bird]

HonestIago said:

Cheers RB5Bird - never knew clutches could just fail, always thought they just wore out over time.

I also had the clutch changed not long after I got it, I suspect it wasn't fitted very well. When it did fail I had it recovered to my regular service garage (which is different to the first one, now use a main dealer not a "specialist"). They had never really seen a clutch fail like it had, I did pay over the odds for a genuine Subaru part, but it was fitted by Subaru so at least I have some come back if it goes wrong again.

Edited by RB5Bird on Tuesday 19th August 16:47

[JollyGrnMonster]

Treat the maf as a service item and replace it with a subaru oe item as 99/00 are very weak.

[scoobychris555]

I'm no expert on rads but I purchased mine from euro car parts for about £80. Quality seemed good enough and it fitted well. I'm sure there are better rads on the market but it looked like an oe item to me although must be a pattern part. Think it took about 3-4 hours to fit in total(kept stopping to look after kids, lunch etc etc) I assume classic is the same and somebody more organised would have done it much quicker than me.

Fitted them to both newage stis that I have owned and had no trouble. Perhaps worth uprating for serious track use etc but I would anticipate they are fine for everyday road use

[Husaberk]

JollyGrnMonster said:

Treat the maf as a service item and replace it with a subaru oe item as 99/00 are very weak.

Never had an issue with Mafs on the 3 my99/00s I've owned/own(120000m across all 3) but always been aware of the issue. The impression I've got from garages and forums is that a failing maf produces symptoms. The ones I'm aware of are fluctuating idle, inconsistent engine/boost response I.e. Hesitation or a sudden large improvement in performance. So my thinking has always been that if those symptoms appear I'd replace the maf otherwise leave well alone. Any flaws in my thinking?

[NormalWisdom]

Husaberk said:

JollyGrnMonster said:

Treat the maf as a service item and replace it with a subaru oe item as 99/00 are very weak.

Never had an issue with Mafs on the 3 my99/00s I've owned/own(120000m across all 3) but always been aware of the issue. The impression I've got from garages and forums is that a failing maf produces symptoms. The ones I'm aware of are fluctuating idle, inconsistent engine/boost response I.e. Hesitation or a sudden large improvement in performance. So my thinking has always been that if those symptoms appear I'd replace the maf otherwise leave well alone. Any flaws in my thinking?

Well My MAF went last Friday (128k miles) so replaced that and O2 at the same time before driving back to Munich on Sunday - Symptoms as described above

[HonestIago]

NormalWisdom said:

Well My MAF went last Friday (128k miles) so replaced that and O2 at the same time before driving back to Munich on Sunday - Symptoms as described above

When you say "went" what exactly happened?

My MAF gets changed every year as a precaution. It's never normally that bad, just very slight hesitation from time to time when on boost. It was last changed at 86k and already getting some hesitation again at 91k, getting some work done in a few weeks so will see what my specialist says about it then.

[NormalWisdom]

HonestIago said:

NormalWisdom said:

Well My MAF went last Friday (128k miles) so replaced that and O2 at the same time before driving back to Munich on Sunday - Symptoms as described above

When you say "went" what exactly happened?

My MAF gets changed every year as a precaution. It's never normally that bad, just very slight hesitation from time to time when on boost. It was last changed at 86k and already getting some hesitation again at 91k, getting some work done in a few weeks so will see what my specialist says about it then.

First-off the Engine warning light came on - This was accompanied by a lot of misfiring under throttle - Took it the the local dealer immediately (as I was about to take it on a 750-mile trip) where they did the diagnostics.

Really change it every year? That seems a bit excessive (well it does to me when I had to pay dealer to do it!)

[HonestIago]

NormalWisdom said:

First-off the Engine warning light came on - This was accompanied by a lot of misfiring under throttle - Took it the the local dealer immediately (as I was about to take it on a 750-mile trip) where they did the diagnostics.

Really change it every year? That seems a bit excessive (well it does to me when I had to pay dealer to do it!)

I am led to believe that a failing maf can ruin one's engine? £105+VAT per annum for peace of mind doesn't sound too bad to me. I've had it replaced at both 81k and 86k, there was noticeable hesitation before it was changed last time.

[NormalWisdom]

HonestIago said:

I am led to believe that a failing maf can ruin one's engine? £105+VAT per annum for peace of mind doesn't sound too bad to me. I've had it replaced at both 81k and 86k, there was noticeable hesitation before it was changed last time.

It'll heap a bit on your fuel consumption and engine will definitely run rough under stress. Effectively, all that is happening is that MAF data is not getting back to the ECU (hence issues under throttle - Runs fine at cruise). Not sure it gets into engine ruining territory but, as you say, £126 a year is a cheap price to pay for peace of mind.

[Husaberk]

HonestIago said:

I am led to believe that a failing maf can ruin one's engine? £105+VAT per annum for peace of mind doesn't sound too bad to me. I've had it replaced at both 81k and 86k, there was noticeable hesitation before it was changed last time.

That's my understanding also and I'd certainly have swapped the maf as you did if I encountered those symptons but for it to fail again after only 5000m it strongly suggests something else is amiss. My understanding(open to correction) is that the maf is a 'hot' wire and I wonder if your car has a wiring fault that is causing it to fail, too much/little current maybe? Another thought is your air filter/intake secure, if it's loose I can see how vibration might also cause a failure.

[HonestIago]

Husaberk said:

HonestIago said:

I am led to believe that a failing maf can ruin one's engine? £105+VAT per annum for peace of mind doesn't sound too bad to me. I've had it replaced at both 81k and 86k, there was noticeable hesitation before it was changed last time.

That's my understanding also and I'd certainly have swapped the maf as you did if I encountered those symptons but for it to fail again after only 5000m it strongly suggests something else is amiss. My understanding(open to correction) is that the maf is a 'hot' wire and I wonder if your car has a wiring fault that is causing it to fail, too much/little current maybe? Another thought is your air filter/intake secure, if it's loose I can see how vibration might also cause a failure.

Thanks for that input, I did actually replace the battery quite recently so might that make a difference? Will have a word with the specialist when the car goes in for some work in a few weeks. It's getting a TD05 18G and sports cat fitted, then getting mapped early November so I want it running spot on.

[corvus]

NormalWisdom said:

Really change it every year? That seems a bit excessive (well it does to me when I had to pay dealer to do it!)

I agree. Even VAG maf's last longer than that!