Thinking about getting an Impreza

[paulmoonraker]

BenWRXSEi said:

Ved said:

Pique said:

I think this is overblown - the 2.5 issues affect the newer hatch models (2008 on) when they are tuned for 300 bhp+.

That said you won't get a Hawkeye WRX within budget anyways.

Not true. The 2.5 has had issues since it was put into the Forester and the UK STIs have had HG and ringlands go since the first Hawkeyes, without tuning. The Hatchbacks were all 300PS but even the WRXs aren't immune. There's a design fault in their components. Hopefully it doesn't continue into the current crop.

...which is why I went for a 2.5 WRX with PPP. Admittedly out of budget for the OP, but in my experience (and following a lot of research) it's a sound lump if you can stretch to it

The vast majority of HG issues are at higher boost. I.e more than 300bhp. Sure some may have failed at less, but the majority have been mapped cars or cars that have overheated (for whatever reason).

Mine went when the engine boiled over because the mechanic that changed the cambelt forgot to plug the rad fans in. Caveat emptor. However, on the plus side I have a really good set up now.

[rb5er]

paulmoonraker said:

Don't buy a classic unless you have cash to throw and it, and you can afford something that will hold value. If you want a car that you can use everyday, that doesn't feel 20 years old inside, then buy a new-age car.

I usually agree with you but not on this statement. For that sort of budget you will get either a high mileage newage car or a low mileage classic.

I would take the classic every day of the week for driving thrills although a newage may well make for a more refined daily driver and better to turn up to see a client in etc, more mature image perhaps. Depends what you want from a car.

Mine has been well maintained and remains 100% reliable without any nigglesor cash throwing at it other than a brake caliper rebuild, same brakes as on a newage wrx. Other than possible rust issues which can be avoided by buying a car on condition what are you saying would require cash throwing at a classic over a newage?

[72twink]

rb5er said:

I usually agree with you but not on this statement. For that sort of budget you will get either a high mileage newage car or a low mileage classic.

I would take the classic every day of the week for driving thrills although a newage may well make for a more refined daily driver and better to turn up to see a client in etc, more mature image perhaps. Depends what you want from a car.

Mine has been well maintained and remains 100% reliable without any nigglesor cash throwing at it other than a brake caliper rebuild, same brakes as on a newage wrx. Other than possible rust issues which can be avoided by buying a car on condition what are you saying would require cash throwing at a classic over a newage?

My daily use Terzo totally agrees with you, bought at 44K at a touch under the OP's budget and subject to nothing more than normal servicing needs. Over 2 years it's had a cambelt/tensioner, 1 x cam cover gasket, pads and discs all round, 1 x pair of tyres and a few oil changes. I still love getting in it every time and it still gets an over the shoulder glance as I walk away - even when it looks like it's just stepped out of Keilder

[paulmoonraker]

rb5er said:

I usually agree with you but not on this statement. For that sort of budget you will get either a high mileage newage car or a low mileage classic.

I would take the classic every day of the week for driving thrills although a newage may well make for a more refined daily driver and better to turn up to see a client in etc, more mature image perhaps. Depends what you want from a car.

Mine has been well maintained and remains 100% reliable without any nigglesor cash throwing at it other than a brake caliper rebuild, same brakes as on a newage wrx. Other than possible rust issues which can be avoided by buying a car on condition what are you saying would require cash throwing at a classic over a newage?

I guess what I am saying, is that I would invest in a classic. I would spend a lot on it, and then a lot making it special.

For a car for work and all round driving, the new age wins for me.

I'm not really suggesting a classic is inherently any more unreliable, however, the chances of age related problems like rust are more prevalent.

[heorot2]

I bought a new Turbo wagon in 1998 and it is still my daily drive. In 16 years I have replaced HT leads and a starter motor. That's it, apart from the usual consumables, cam belts, tyres , brake pads etc. After the warranty expired, it gets a service once a year whether it needs it or not, alternately a full and interim service. When I worked, I got 24 - 26 on a 12 mile each way commute into Norwich but on a recent drive from Norwich to Bluewater, I got over 30 and I wasn't dawdling. It still passes it's MOT first time each year, much to the disgust of the MOT garage owner, who told me that it's not right for a 16 yo car to pass every year with no work required. It doesn't even have any rust, despite never being garaged and only washed twice a year.

All in all, I can recommend the classic wagon to anyone who needs a great car for little money.

By the way, I have tried Bridgestones, Yokohama and Toyo proxies and can say that the Proxies are the best choice, for the '98 model at least.

[Mr Taxpayer]

I've got a 05 WRX wagon that I picked up for £3600 April 13. It had 61k miles at purchase; it now has 89k.

The LPG conversion was done in the first month of ownership and cost me £1270 and has paid for itself twice in that time. The only other expense was £110 for 4 17" alloys (online auction) that have been fitted with winter tyres.

Agree with the earlier poster about brakes. I put new front disc on at purchase and measured they've been through 2 sets of pads. I measured them at the weekend at 22.85mm and 22.75mm so they'll be getting changed in the next month.

I watched 'Wheeler Dealers' on Quest last week and they did a 02 WRX bug-eye in the show. Very informative.

[Ennoch]

Mr Taxpayer said:

Agree with the earlier poster about brakes. I put new front disc on at purchase and measured they've been through 2 sets of pads. I measured them at the weekend at 22.85mm and 22.75mm so they'll be getting changed in the next month.

No real need to change them at that thickness; new they're 24mm and min (quoted) is 22mm. However, there is a ton of meat on them and at 0.6mm wear per set of pads you'll get another set out of them before needing to worry about replacement (IMO). That said, pattern discs from camskill are hardly expensive.

[Mr Taxpayer]

Ennoch said:

Mr Taxpayer said:

Agree with the earlier poster about brakes. I put new front disc on at purchase and measured they've been through 2 sets of pads. I measured them at the weekend at 22.85mm and 22.75mm so they'll be getting changed in the next month.

No real need to change them at that thickness; new they're 24mm and min (quoted) is 22mm. However, there is a ton of meat on them and at 0.6mm wear per set of pads you'll get another set out of them before needing to worry about replacement (IMO). That said, pattern discs from camskill are hardly expensive.

Thanks, Ennoch, I didn't know the original thickness so yes, should be able to get another set of pads out them. Just new pads next month then, ta. :-)