Subaru Rust.... Fix or Get Rid
Discussion
Hi All,
I'm not sure what to do...
My car recently failed the MOT as the sills have rusted. On top of that, the rear arches are bubbling away nicely, so of course they're buggered too.
The car is a standard UK turbo 2000 with PPP. So not high on the desirability list, but I love it. The engine is sweet, its got low mileage and other than the bodywork, it's great.
So do I stump up the cost of a repair and keep it going? The sills are rusting at the rear, so I imagine the whole rear end will need doing when you consider the arches. We'll be looking at several hundreds if not a thousand to sort I'd guess.
Is it worth it?
I just don't know. I won't get my money back come resale time, but at the same time, cannot afford much in the way of a replacement.
I'm not sure what to do...
My car recently failed the MOT as the sills have rusted. On top of that, the rear arches are bubbling away nicely, so of course they're buggered too.
The car is a standard UK turbo 2000 with PPP. So not high on the desirability list, but I love it. The engine is sweet, its got low mileage and other than the bodywork, it's great.
So do I stump up the cost of a repair and keep it going? The sills are rusting at the rear, so I imagine the whole rear end will need doing when you consider the arches. We'll be looking at several hundreds if not a thousand to sort I'd guess.
Is it worth it?
I just don't know. I won't get my money back come resale time, but at the same time, cannot afford much in the way of a replacement.
Get it fixed 
I have the same car, albeit with a bigger turbo now, and a rear arch repair is an inevitability at some point. I'm currently putting a little aside each month so I can get a full respray and underbody tidy-up/underseal done at the same time. It will be a lot of money but I plan to run it every day for another 3-4 years minimum and keep it forever.
I have the same car, albeit with a bigger turbo now, and a rear arch repair is an inevitability at some point. I'm currently putting a little aside each month so I can get a full respray and underbody tidy-up/underseal done at the same time. It will be a lot of money but I plan to run it every day for another 3-4 years minimum and keep it forever.
A good example of a UK2000 will go on and on for a few years and handle stacks of abuse. I'd be tempted to get a few quotes or recommendations and go from there. Just make sure that any work is then correctly protected and sorted so it doesn't rear its head again 2 years down the road. Once it's been done then a good tin of Bilt Hamber will offer added protection.
If the car has otherwise been reliable and you know the history etc, then repair is probably the cost effective option, as buying a replacement (if you decide on another Scooby) could be a bit of a minefield and land you with bigger bills in the long term.
If the car has otherwise been reliable and you know the history etc, then repair is probably the cost effective option, as buying a replacement (if you decide on another Scooby) could be a bit of a minefield and land you with bigger bills in the long term.
AntiLagGC8 said:
I'd recommend a repair but then I would as I've got an RB5 and hate seeing all of the classics broken.
A car at my mechanics had its sills done and then a carbon fiber cover put on them to stop them going again.
If the car is otherwise sound then it makes sense to repair it.
I've just had the chassis members done on both sides of my RB5 and one of the rear wheel arches as well. Like it too much to get rid of it and it would cost a hell of a lot more to get a newer equivalent car.A car at my mechanics had its sills done and then a carbon fiber cover put on them to stop them going again.
If the car is otherwise sound then it makes sense to repair it.
SAB888 said:
AntiLagGC8 said:
I'd recommend a repair but then I would as I've got an RB5 and hate seeing all of the classics broken.
A car at my mechanics had its sills done and then a carbon fiber cover put on them to stop them going again.
If the car is otherwise sound then it makes sense to repair it.
I've just had the chassis members done on both sides of my RB5 and one of the rear wheel arches as well. Like it too much to get rid of it and it would cost a hell of a lot more to get a newer equivalent car.A car at my mechanics had its sills done and then a carbon fiber cover put on them to stop them going again.
If the car is otherwise sound then it makes sense to repair it.
I've just had mine converted to a Twin scroll (VF37) and its wild!
It's due to go in after the new year for its rear arches to be done (again!).
Get it sorted if it's been a good car.
Classics are getting rare nowadays and worth saving imo.
For the record my turbo 2000 is going to fail its MOT this year on rot, but the car is worth it to me to keep on the road.
In fact it's proved its worth this week getting my Mrs to work through snow logged lanes.
Great little car.
Classics are getting rare nowadays and worth saving imo.
For the record my turbo 2000 is going to fail its MOT this year on rot, but the car is worth it to me to keep on the road.
In fact it's proved its worth this week getting my Mrs to work through snow logged lanes.
Great little car.
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