After an Impreza.

[300bhp/ton]

Noblebenn said:

1999 WRX TYPE RA Limited.

So many variants its getting a little confusing. Are these any good?

Imported only?
Are they STI or JDM edition?

Worth £5-7k?

I admit it is confusing. And it doesn't help that things are often badly listed too.

For classics:

WRX = Base model turbo model. The UK spec Turbo 2000 is essentially a WRX. JDM ones might have more power due to a different state of tune. But UK ones can be made to perform the same pretty much on a year by year basis. Trim specs will vary between UK and JDM.

WRX STI = All STI's have the naming WRX, but the STI tag means it's the go faster Subaru version. There was no UK model equivalent accept maybe the P1 which was limited numbers. WRX STI's use a different engine (different internals), different turbo, different gearbox and many other changes. These are more powerful than a WRX (ignore the claimed figures, as they don't always tell the truth about power outputs) and are a much better basis for modding for serious power. All of these will be JDM imports.

WRX Type RA = Not this is not an STI, just a regular WRX. It was aimed as a vehicle to purchase that could be used for rally competition. Generally lighter weight, with lower spec (although many items can be added as options), shorter gearing and a beefed up engine in terms of robust, rather than power. I think they also got the STI's DCCD centre diff. These are likely to be a bit more hard core to drive, more noisy and the short gearing will limit top speed and make it no good for motorway use. But will make it fast through the gears and ideal for B road use.

WRX STI Type RA = This is the same sort of thing as the WRX Type RA, but with the STI bits and a few other changes.

WRX STI Type R = 2 door body style. Regular WRX STI's are 4 door. I think there was also a WRX Type R, which again is the 2 door body, but without the STI's engine.


Unless you really want what a Type RA offers, I'd probably say don't go looking for one, as the regular WRX or WRX STI will likely be better.

As the WRX is so similar to the UK Turbo 2000, I see little point in buying a JDM WRX unless a specific vehicle you are looking at is reason enough. The WRX's should be 240-280PS depending on year (more power the youunger they are). While UK models are 208-220hp. The ProDrive dealer tuning would bring them upto 237hp(240PS) and aftermarket can make them match the JDM ones.

WRX STI's are well worth looking at IMO. And the Type R's look the best, being that they are 2 door, although you'll probably pay more for them and they are less practical.



There have also been loads of limited special editions, most well known in the UK is the RB5. But there have been a lot, others in the UK and more in Japan. As a rule all these special editions are simply a WRX with additional trim options unique to that limited edition. True enough most UK variants will have had both the ProDrive power upgrade and handling ones. But they were options and could have been had on a regular Turbo 2000.



Wagons were available for most/all of the WRX models. Maybe not all the limited editions.

Wagons however were not offered for every WRX STI variant and ones that were are quite rare.

N.B.

P1 = This was a UK only model. It's a hybrid mix of a Type R 2 door shell, with a WRX STI engine, but a WRX transmission. This results in getting ABS, as per other UK models and most WRX's, but looses the DCCD that the WRX STI's had. DCCD & ABS didn't appear together until the New Age Impreza's (IIRC). A P1 is IMO generally over priced and you've be better of buying a JDM WRX STI Type R instead. Last up you might see a version number attached to these. Basically this is just to ID when changes were made, so the first WRX STI is version 1, the last of the classic Impreza's WRX STI's was a Version 6.



New Age models:


Some changes, but basically the same sort of thing. Biggest difference is the UK model was renamed to WRX instead of Turbo 2000 and still generally lower spec than the JDM one.

The WRX STI was still a different car, although the UK got models labelled as this, but usually not the same spec or as good as the JDM WRX STI's of the same year.

Spec C's are competition spec. I guess kind of akin to the old Type RA designation, but maybe less focus on weight saving, but offering other competition enhancements, such as different mounting points (adjustable??) for the suspension. Good/essential if you'll be messing about with it, but probably not needed for an average road car.

[mmcd87]

For the money I'd be looking at a newage WRX PPP car. Or a newage standard / PPP STI if you can find an original one. If you need it to commute I'd be tempted to stick with something newer, and if you look after it it should depreciate very little.

[typera]

Noblebenn said:

1999 WRX TYPE RA Limited.

So many variants its getting a little confusing. Are these any good?

Imported only?
Are they STI or JDM edition?

Worth £5-7k?

17 miles of country roads in a WRX RA Limited will be fun

The MY99 WRX RA Limited has the raw(ish)ness of an RA with some (Limited) creature comforts.

They are not an STi version & are JDM only.

£5k for a poor one - £7k for a good one sounds about right.

300bhp/ton said:

I admit it is confusing. And it doesn't help that things are often badly listed too.

Agreed

[crispyshark]

Get yourself a Blob WRX wagon for a song (they are unbelievably cheap). Decat, upgrade the turbo to a VF35 (or hybrid), swap out the injectors for pinks, 255 fuel pump and bigger TMIC and you'll see up to 330BHP on a remap. Get some brembos on it and an anti-roll bar with solid drops. If you are handy I reckon you can get that lot done for less than 2k.

Now you've got a sleeper (ish) and you can tell the missus it's a 'sensible' estate!

[300bhp/ton]

crispyshark said:

Get yourself a Blob WRX wagon for a song (they are unbelievably cheap). Decat, upgrade the turbo to a VF35 (or hybrid), swap out the injectors for pinks, 255 fuel pump and bigger TMIC and you'll see up to 330BHP on a remap. Get some brembos on it and an anti-roll bar with solid drops. If you are handy I reckon you can get that lot done for less than 2k.

Now you've got a sleeper (ish) and you can tell the missus it's a 'sensible' estate!

Maybe you could list those items out with prices and places to buy. Just tallying it up in my head I can't see how you can do it for £2k.


BTW op - I'd avoid decatting. Can't see the point, you'll fail an MoT or road side emissions test. And re-fitting it and removing it is just a PITA.

[crispyshark]

300bhp/ton said:

crispyshark said:

Get yourself a Blob WRX wagon for a song (they are unbelievably cheap). Decat, upgrade the turbo to a VF35 (or hybrid), swap out the injectors for pinks, 255 fuel pump and bigger TMIC and you'll see up to 330BHP on a remap. Get some brembos on it and an anti-roll bar with solid drops. If you are handy I reckon you can get that lot done for less than 2k.

Now you've got a sleeper (ish) and you can tell the missus it's a 'sensible' estate!

Maybe you could list those items out with prices and places to buy. Just tallying it up in my head I can't see how you can do it for £2k.


BTW op - I'd avoid decatting. Can't see the point, you'll fail an MoT or road side emissions test. And re-fitting it and removing it is just a PITA.

Obviously 2nd hand (apologies, should have stated that):
VF35 - £250-300
Brembos - £500 tops for front and rear
ARB and Drop links - £120
Fuel pump - £50
TMIC - £90
Injectors 'pinks' - £150 (tops)
Remap - £400
Decat up-pipe, down pipe and system - £300 (tops)

I've gone quite high on most of those too. Feel free to pop over to Scooby net or any other member's message board and take the time to look yourself.

I run a sports car on mine as I don't fancy the MOT failure either, however a decated car will make more power and there are Scooby specialists that will not charge a great deal more for MOT with CAT added back in.

[BenWRXSEi]

I may be tempted to let mine go if it's of interest

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

[JFReturns]

BenWRXSEi said:

I may be tempted to let mine go if it's of interest

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Please PM me the advert if you do put it up for sale.

[rb5er]

Where can this vf35 be had for £250 ???

[crispyshark]

rb5er said:

Where can this vf35 be had for £250 ???

2nd hand you can find them between £250 and £350.

You pays your money you takes your choice.

Again, if you are handy you can refurb one yourself and send it away for balancing.

I paid £300 for mine.

[300bhp/ton]

Any tips on finding them at that price. I had a quick look on ebay, but didn't see them below £500 and some at £700. Although they might have been new/reconditioned.

[crispyshark]

300bhp/ton said:

Any tips on finding them at that price. I had a quick look on ebay, but didn't see them below £500 and some at £700. Although they might have been new/reconditioned.

Have a chat with Matty B at Matty B Developments.

He breaks scoobies and will get you one for £350. It's just a case of waiting around and trawling the forums as they sell quick....and obviously you do take the risk.

Having purchased parts off of him before I can honestly say I've not had a problem.

[BenWRXSEi]

JFReturns said:

BenWRXSEi said:

I may be tempted to let mine go if it's of interest

http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&a...

Please PM me the advert if you do put it up for sale.

PM'd

[TEKNOPUG]

crispyshark said:

300bhp/ton said:

crispyshark said:

Get yourself a Blob WRX wagon for a song (they are unbelievably cheap). Decat, upgrade the turbo to a VF35 (or hybrid), swap out the injectors for pinks, 255 fuel pump and bigger TMIC and you'll see up to 330BHP on a remap. Get some brembos on it and an anti-roll bar with solid drops. If you are handy I reckon you can get that lot done for less than 2k.

Now you've got a sleeper (ish) and you can tell the missus it's a 'sensible' estate!

Maybe you could list those items out with prices and places to buy. Just tallying it up in my head I can't see how you can do it for £2k.


BTW op - I'd avoid decatting. Can't see the point, you'll fail an MoT or road side emissions test. And re-fitting it and removing it is just a PITA.

Obviously 2nd hand (apologies, should have stated that):
VF35 - £250-300
Brembos - £500 tops for front and rear
ARB and Drop links - £120
Fuel pump - £50
TMIC - £90
Injectors 'pinks' - £150 (tops)
Remap - £400
Decat up-pipe, down pipe and system - £300 (tops)

I've gone quite high on most of those too. Feel free to pop over to Scooby net or any other member's message board and take the time to look yourself.

I run a sports car on mine as I don't fancy the MOT failure either, however a decated car will make more power and there are Scooby specialists that will not charge a great deal more for MOT with CAT added back in.

The whole point of a Scooby, to me at least, is the handling and grip. The ability to rapidly cross country in all conditions. If you just want straight line acceleration, there are better cars for the money. Therefore, the most important aspects are the suspension, brakes & tyres. Power can be added later but you need to get the basics right first. That way you can enjoy the car on the twisties, which it was designed for, rather than just blatting down a dual carriage-way.

This time last year, I bought a very cheap, yet original, high mileage (120k) PPP WRX Wagon. I guess I've spent maybe £2k+ since then on suspension (total overhaul; top mounts, PCA springs, shocks, ARB bushes, drop-links and bigger rear ARB, proper alignment), brakes (AP racing front calipers - 2nd hand & then full rebuild, discs/pads/fluid/braided lines) and some decent tyres. I've also treated the car a complete fluid & filter change (using highest garde products) and oil changes every 6k. It's now on 147k miles and it hasn't missed a beat. Most importantly, it's just so much fun to drive. Turn in is sharp, chassis is balanced with little body roll. I've never taken so many liberties in a car It's just so capable in all conditions.

I'm looking to upgrade the power now - more because I wan't a custom remap to smooth out the delivery and a couple of flat-spots, so it seems sensible to me the most of the price of the map. I already have an uprated fuel-pump, so I'm just going to add a sports CAT and up-pipe. Won't set the world on fire with the little TD04 but will still be a big improvement over the PPP performance, whilst maintaining the fast spool.

The option is always there to go to a bigger turbo in the future, now I know that the chassis and brakes are capable of a lot more power.

With regards to prices, I think the you're a little optimistic. TMIC isn't need but you will need a 3-port boost solenoid. My second hand Whitline ARB was £100. Uprated drop-links are not cheap and second-hand seems a bit of a false economy. Ditto with the exhaust. £3k would be more realistic is buying a lot of new parts but can no doubt be done cheaper is you can find some good deals. However, you don't need to do everything in one hit. Also, no point in buying a £5k car if you want to mod it. May as well get a £3k one with tired suspension & brakes - you are going to replace them any way.

[JFReturns]

BenWRXSEi said:

PM'd

Nothing received yet

[BenWRXSEi]

JFReturns said:

BenWRXSEi said:

PM'd

Nothing received yet

Hmm, PM system seems to be borked. Can you message me and I'll reply?

[crispyshark]

TEKNOPUG said:

crispyshark said:

300bhp/ton said:

crispyshark said:

Get yourself a Blob WRX wagon for a song (they are unbelievably cheap). Decat, upgrade the turbo to a VF35 (or hybrid), swap out the injectors for pinks, 255 fuel pump and bigger TMIC and you'll see up to 330BHP on a remap. Get some brembos on it and an anti-roll bar with solid drops. If you are handy I reckon you can get that lot done for less than 2k.

Now you've got a sleeper (ish) and you can tell the missus it's a 'sensible' estate!

Maybe you could list those items out with prices and places to buy. Just tallying it up in my head I can't see how you can do it for £2k.


BTW op - I'd avoid decatting. Can't see the point, you'll fail an MoT or road side emissions test. And re-fitting it and removing it is just a PITA.

Obviously 2nd hand (apologies, should have stated that):
VF35 - £250-300
Brembos - £500 tops for front and rear
ARB and Drop links - £120
Fuel pump - £50
TMIC - £90
Injectors 'pinks' - £150 (tops)
Remap - £400
Decat up-pipe, down pipe and system - £300 (tops)

I've gone quite high on most of those too. Feel free to pop over to Scooby net or any other member's message board and take the time to look yourself.

I run a sports car on mine as I don't fancy the MOT failure either, however a decated car will make more power and there are Scooby specialists that will not charge a great deal more for MOT with CAT added back in.

The whole point of a Scooby, to me at least, is the handling and grip. The ability to rapidly cross country in all conditions. If you just want straight line acceleration, there are better cars for the money. Therefore, the most important aspects are the suspension, brakes & tyres. Power can be added later but you need to get the basics right first. That way you can enjoy the car on the twisties, which it was designed for, rather than just blatting down a dual carriage-way.

This time last year, I bought a very cheap, yet original, high mileage (120k) PPP WRX Wagon. I guess I've spent maybe £2k+ since then on suspension (total overhaul; top mounts, PCA springs, shocks, ARB bushes, drop-links and bigger rear ARB, proper alignment), brakes (AP racing front calipers - 2nd hand & then full rebuild, discs/pads/fluid/braided lines) and some decent tyres. I've also treated the car a complete fluid & filter change (using highest garde products) and oil changes every 6k. It's now on 147k miles and it hasn't missed a beat. Most importantly, it's just so much fun to drive. Turn in is sharp, chassis is balanced with little body roll. I've never taken so many liberties in a car It's just so capable in all conditions.

I'm looking to upgrade the power now - more because I wan't a custom remap to smooth out the delivery and a couple of flat-spots, so it seems sensible to me the most of the price of the map. I already have an uprated fuel-pump, so I'm just going to add a sports CAT and up-pipe. Won't set the world on fire with the little TD04 but will still be a big improvement over the PPP performance, whilst maintaining the fast spool.

The option is always there to go to a bigger turbo in the future, now I know that the chassis and brakes are capable of a lot more power.

With regards to prices, I think the you're a little optimistic. TMIC isn't need but you will need a 3-port boost solenoid. My second hand Whitline ARB was £100. Uprated drop-links are not cheap and second-hand seems a bit of a false economy. Ditto with the exhaust. £3k would be more realistic is buying a lot of new parts but can no doubt be done cheaper is you can find some good deals. However, you don't need to do everything in one hit. Also, no point in buying a £5k car if you want to mod it. May as well get a £3k one with tired suspension & brakes - you are going to replace them any way.

You don't need a 3 port boost sol on 2003 + wagons, I have to correct you there.

Also, if you want north of 300 bhp you will need to change the TMIC.

Again, got my solid drop links pretty much brand spanking with my ARB....you just have to wait a little while.

Picked my wagon up for £2,800 which is a way off £5k.

Glad you are enjoying yours as much as I do line though!

[Mr Taxpayer]

I use a 05 WRX Wagon on my 45 mile each way commute down the Hereofrdshire/Monmouthshire border.

I spent £1270 getting an LPG conversion. You can't tell difference in the performance. but you can at 55p per litre.

[tonyb1968]

OP, its a bit of a mine field trying to find a decent Subaru that has not been messed with (normally badly), been maintained correctly (due to people not having the cash to afford the servicing), or running the car on the correct grade of fuel (and people wonder why their engines go pop).

My last car, I travelled well over 300 miles to get her, lost 1k on the price over 3.5 years, at the moment there is a nice looking 2004 UK STI with 60ish k miles on the clock, PPP and less than 5k (also FULL SH), its in london but still worth looking at, especially as its had the rear shocks replaced (common fault).

[madmover]

tonyb1968 said:

OP, its a bit of a mine field trying to find a decent Subaru that has not been messed with (normally badly), been maintained correctly (due to people not having the cash to afford the servicing), or running the car on the correct grade of fuel (and people wonder why their engines go pop).

My last car, I travelled well over 300 miles to get her, lost 1k on the price over 3.5 years, at the moment there is a nice looking 2004 UK STI with 60ish k miles on the clock, PPP and less than 5k (also FULL SH), its in london but still worth looking at, especially as its had the rear shocks replaced (common fault).

Couldn't agree more.
I love my Turbo 2000, mainly because it's completely standard and everything works as it should. The only thing I would say is the brakes are a bit crap. Subsequently, I've just up-rated the discs and pads.

Personally, my advice to the OP would be to buy a standard one which has been well maintained. Especially if you're using it daily, the last thing you want is to be stuck on the side of the road or having to limp your car to work.