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sparkybean
Original Poster
191 posts
59 months
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.. joints, specifically removing a lower ball joint from the upright.
Any ideas on the best ways to go about it? I have a joint splitter (looks similar to a tuning fork) but all it seems to do is make a lot of noise when smacked with the hammer or tear the boot. I only have axle stands to work on so room is limited.
Thanks.
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Mr2Mike
9,441 posts
124 months
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The wedge ball joint splitting tools are useless IME, unless your aim is to split the rubber gaiter. You tend to need a scissors type splitter to get these undone.
What car is it, or more specifically is the balljoint attached to or integral with the end of the wishbone (most common) or part of the upright?
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HustleRussell
4,114 posts
29 months
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I find the fork type ones do work but you should lever the balljoint firmly apart at the same time
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Max_Torque
4,808 posts
86 months
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Get two hammers, 1 big one, 1 smaller one.
Hold the big hammer directly against the metal of the upright inline with the middle of the ball joint taper. Hit the otherside of the upright inline with the first hammer. The shock will "ring" between the hammers, and the taper will just fall out!
Works every time (as long as you can get access to the taper for a hammer swing). for "split" taper joints on which a bolt is used to nip up the joint, generally using a wedge to open the joint it more effective.
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TallPaul
933 posts
127 months
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v46m4n
119 posts
21 months
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HustleRussell said: I find the fork type ones do work but you should lever the balljoint firmly apart at the same time as above but get someone with a long bar to lever lower arm fron upright
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HustleRussell
4,114 posts
29 months
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The two hammers trick- it does work, but many people can't do it. It is a 'knack' for sure.
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sparkybean
Original Poster
191 posts
59 months
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Max_Torque said: and the taper will just fall out! I read that with some cynicism, and it took a few attempts manoeuvring the hammers into the right place, but all went exactly as you wrote. Fantastic  I'll look at getting a scissor type splitter anyway, as it looks very effective for tight spots. Thanks all, job jobbed 
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steve_bmw
1,013 posts
44 months
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Two hammers every time, used this method since my dad showed me back in 1993 when doing my mini ballpoints, which you do a lot.
Never struggled to get a ball joint off even on some big BMW ones.
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yorkshirephil
85 posts
28 months
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Dont bother ball joint splitters they are a waste of time and never needed, just get a decent sized hammer and keep hitting the housing that the taper goes into, the ball joint will just pop out.
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Mr2Mike
9,441 posts
124 months
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yorkshirephil said: Dont bother ball joint splitters they are a waste of time and never needed, just get a decent sized hammer and keep hitting the housing that the taper goes into, the ball joint will just pop out. Using a single hammer is a recipe for breaking or bending something in many cases, and simply won't work at all in others. The whole point of using two hammers is to constrain most of the force of the blow within the tapered housing.
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yorkshirephil
85 posts
28 months
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I have been a mechanic for 20 years and never had a problem with this method yet. Mr2Mike said: Using a single hammer is a recipe for breaking or bending something in many cases, and simply won't work at all in others. The whole point of using two hammers is to constrain most of the force of the blow within the tapered housing.
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Mr2Mike
9,441 posts
124 months
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yorkshirephil said: I have been a mechanic for 20 years and never had a problem with this method yet. Mr2Mike said: I've seen a steering arm with considerably increased Ackerman angle from someone attempting to do just this.
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