driveshaft nut removal

[kev b]

Peugeots are as bad if not worse, I had to use 5 types/sizes of tool to remove the 4 bolts from a lower wishbone.

Every time I work on a French car it looks as though I have just emptied my tool chest onto the floor.

[Welshname]

Yeah I'm the messiest worker ever. I would probably do each job in half the time if I put every tool back when I finished with it.

I tend to spend 20 minutes looking for a spanner I had 30 seconds ago and can no longer find.

[gareyt]

Yeah totally agree, try working on a small stone gravel surface. I put my tools down and then when I go to get it again its gone missing, covered over by little stones.

Probably spent half the time sifting through stones to find missing sockets etc.

All part of the fun I guess.

[HumbleJim]

My drive slopes. So not only lifting the car on a slope all my stuff ends up in the gutter.

[interloper]

gareyt said:

Yeah totally agree, try working on a small stone gravel surface. I put my tools down and then when I go to get it again its gone missing, covered over by little stones.

Probably spent half the time sifting through stones to find missing sockets etc.

All part of the fun I guess.

I have had this issue, drove me mad! I ended up buying a large blue tarpaulin. You park the car on it and when you drop a nut, socket, washer, bolt etc, its nice and obvious unless they happen to blue as well!

[gareyt]

Good idea about the taupaline, simple but effective.

Ive finished the job now and the other bits I was doing. Im a novice and I would say that if you have all the right tools then it shouldnt take more than about 2hrs.But it really depends on the difficulties that you might run into such as extremely tight nuts. For me everything came off easy because I have been replacing all the parts that I had to undo or move so I knew that it would all undo easily.

I had to top up the transmission fluid afterwards as I lost about 250ml when I removed the driveshaft. I measured what I lost so I knew how much to replace it with. My clever invention for refilling the fluid was a handwash bottle with a bit of rubber pipe connected and fed up into transmission filler point. Then just squeeze away. Easy and cheap.

[Welshname]

gareyt said:

Good idea about the taupaline, simple but effective.

Ive finished the job now and the other bits I was doing. Im a novice and I would say that if you have all the right tools then it shouldnt take more than about 2hrs.But it really depends on the difficulties that you might run into such as extremely tight nuts. For me everything came off easy because I have been replacing all the parts that I had to undo or move so I knew that it would all undo easily.

I had to top up the transmission fluid afterwards as I lost about 250ml when I removed the driveshaft. I measured what I lost so I knew how much to replace it with. My clever invention for refilling the fluid was a handwash bottle with a bit of rubber pipe connected and fed up into transmission filler point. Then just squeeze away. Easy and cheap.

2 hours?!?!?! I did mine in sub 1 hour on my own and I paused for about 12 cigs inbetween because I was tired and couldn't be arsed :P

In all seriousness not bad going for a first attempt. I did do mine twice on the same day last weekend when I did it. Once to check it was actually ruined, then again once I'd driven 2 hours on a shagged driveshaft to collect the new one. CV Grease EVERYWHERE!.

[MGJohn]

There are several nuts, bolts and plugs on my own and my family's cars which are often silly tight. These include the Driveshaft nuts and possibly worst of all, the 22mm Bolt which secures the CRANKshaft Pulley on K-Series engines. Next "tough nut" being the 34mm Staked Nut used on Rover 620ti Driveshafts.

Over ten years ago, I bought a BERGEN 3/4" Breaker and two 3/4" Hex-Sockets. 34 and 32mm. I also found a couple of good quality other sizes in 3/4" drive on Scrapyard visits... Folks in a hurry often leave good tools or oddments there.

Here's the set up I use on those uber-tight 620ti Driveshaft nuts :~



Note the use of a cold chisel in the Brake Disc Vents to lock the shaft securely. Not been defeated by any bolts or nuts since that small investment with 3/4" kit which I often loan to relatives and friends who work on their cars. Paid for itself many times over.

I have also used an axle stand to support an extension bar when dealing with difficult items like the Access Plug on the PG1 Gearbox. Always silly tight with thread lock. No real need. I always release that access plug whilst the gearbox is still anchored securely on the car. Can be near impossible to undo with the Gearbox off the car. Been there done that so now a tad wiser.

Here's a close up of that silly tight Plug on the PG1 gearbox. An Allen Key Socket is required to remove that :~



Here the Axle Stand, Stout 3/4"~1/2" Reducer and Extension bar is also deployed :~



... and that often silly tight 22mm K-Series CRANKshaft Pulley Bolt :~



With a small outlay jobs which previously were a time consuming PITA for the DIYer are now a doddle.

[HumbleJim]

MGJohn said:

There are several nuts, bolts and plugs on my own and my family's cars which are often silly tight. These include the Driveshaft nuts and possibly worst of all, the 22mm Bolt which secures the CRANKshaft Pulley on K-Series engines. Next "tough nut" being the 34mm Staked Nut used on Rover 620ti Driveshafts.

Over ten years ago, I bought a BERGEN 3/4" Breaker and two 3/4" Hex-Sockets. 34 and 32mm. I also found a couple of good quality other sizes in 3/4" drive on Scrapyard visits... Folks in a hurry often leave good tools or oddments there.

Here's the set up I use on those uber-tight 620ti Driveshaft nuts :~



Note the use of a cold chisel in the Brake Disc Vents to lock the shaft securely. Not been defeated by any bolts or nuts since that small investment with 3/4" kit which I often loan to relatives and friends who work on their cars. Paid for itself many times over.

I have also used an axle stand to support an extension bar when dealing with difficult items like the Access Plug on the PG1 Gearbox. Always silly tight with thread lock. No real need. I always release that access plug whilst the gearbox is still anchored securely on the car. Can be near impossible to undo with the Gearbox off the car. Been there done that so now a tad wiser.

Here's a close up of that silly tight Plug on the PG1 gearbox. An Allen Key Socket is required to remove that :~



Here the Axle Stand, Stout 3/4"~1/2" Reducer and Extension bar is also deployed :~



... and that often silly tight 22mm K-Series CRANKshaft Pulley Bolt :~



With a small outlay jobs which previously were a time consuming PITA for the DIYer are now a doddle.

Just shows, a bit of thought and the right tools...............

[kev b]

That's a coincidence, I am half way through a head gasket swap on a friends Rover 25, my trusty rattle gun would not loosen the crank nut, I am resigned to using the breaker bar and axle stand method. What do method do you use to stop the crank turning?

[MGJohn]

kev b said:

That's a coincidence, I am half way through a head gasket swap on a friends Rover 25, my trusty rattle gun would not loosen the crank nut, I am resigned to using the breaker bar and axle stand method. What do method do you use to stop the crank turning?

Ahah! I deploy my twenty something son to sit in the car with foot planted firmly on the brake pedal and car in 5th Gear. That's his Rover 25 in the bottom picture. It works using the 3/4" Kit and then once loosened, 1/2" tools are more suitable.

Otherwise, remove starter motor and use locking device on flywheel. Not had to do that so far.

On the larger T and O Series MG/Rover engines, there's a hole in the Engine/Gearbox interface plate which aligns with a hole in the flywheel at the "safe" engine locked position. I use a cut down A-Series Push Rod inserted there and that locks the flywheel perfectly as the push rod diameter is a near perfect fit. Never forget to remove it when the job is done. Same with the CAMshaft locking tool.

I now have a mains (240v) Electric Impact Driver and that copes with most tight nuts and bolts.

[kev b]

Thanks John, that's what I was planning to do as soon as I find someone to sit in the car, just wondered if there was a trick way ie locking the flywheel.

I don't have a 20 stone son so I'll have to manage the best I can without.

[MGJohn]

kev b said:

Thanks John, that's what I was planning to do as soon as I find someone to sit in the car, just wondered if there was a trick way ie locking the flywheel.

I don't have a 20 stone son so I'll have to manage the best I can without.

That's his age not his weight .. ... Mind you over six feet and about 13 st. Correction. He only has two feet....

[Toaster Pilot]

I bought a Clarke CEW1000 230V impact gun for stuff like driveshaft nuts - its fking lethal but makes short work of them!

[PaulKemp]

I'm doing work on an old VW Golf that's been standing for years
My best friend so far has been a butane/propane mix hand held blowtorch.
If bolt does not give with a 1 meter bar or a ring spanner & hammer, heat bolt for 2 mins and try again.