Scissor lift - how safe
Discussion
Here's the article I'd seen a locking scissor lift on; nice clear pics showing what's what. Serious garage envy too! 
Here is a picture of the locks on mine. If you look hard you can see the air actuator that lifts the lock arm.
on a side note, I also have a tyre changer but I always struggle to break the bead on tyres... so when I made the suspension / gearbox / engine support beam, I extended if a bit and added a bead breaker! when there is a car on the ramp and its bolted into place, it makes a great bead breaker!
on a side note, I also have a tyre changer but I always struggle to break the bead on tyres... so when I made the suspension / gearbox / engine support beam, I extended if a bit and added a bead breaker! when there is a car on the ramp and its bolted into place, it makes a great bead breaker!
Just placed my order with Automotech this afternoon for the AS-7532B scissor lift. Will be delivered on Friday and on Sunday have a group of friends coming round to help lift into position in the garage.
That's the other beauty of the 7532, it comes in 2 parts and at 200kgs each should be easier to manoeuvre than the all-in-one cheaper version.
Once in position I can start to build the floor up around the ramps.
Will need some flooring to cover the plywood decking, but the popular PVC interlocking is quite expensive. See my other thread about CostCo Versaroll PVC flooring sheet.
Richard
That's the other beauty of the 7532, it comes in 2 parts and at 200kgs each should be easier to manoeuvre than the all-in-one cheaper version.
Once in position I can start to build the floor up around the ramps.
Will need some flooring to cover the plywood decking, but the popular PVC interlocking is quite expensive. See my other thread about CostCo Versaroll PVC flooring sheet.
Richard
Richard, pics look great and I'm also very interested in getting the Automotech AS-7532B for my new double garage (we move house in 2 weeks, I'm more excited about the garage than about the house!). Anyway, a couple of questions if you don't mind?
Firstly, I also want my lift to be flush with the floor but I'm thinking of digging out the concrete rather than building up, can you see any obvious reasons this wouldn't work?
And lastly, it looks like you can set the distance between the ramps according to individual needs, can you confirm it's just a hydraulic pipe that links the two?
Many thanks!
Firstly, I also want my lift to be flush with the floor but I'm thinking of digging out the concrete rather than building up, can you see any obvious reasons this wouldn't work?
And lastly, it looks like you can set the distance between the ramps according to individual needs, can you confirm it's just a hydraulic pipe that links the two?
Many thanks!
Hi grenpayne, as previous contributor said it would be possible to dig out floor. I've not got anything special in my floor only the original concrete base which varies from 100 to 150mm thick and has been down now for over 25 years with no cracks or break up.
The scissor lifts have quite a large solid base underneath virtually the length of the ramps themselves, so the weight is being spread out quite considerably.
If you were fitting a 2 post system then yes you'd probably need a reinforced floor pad.
One thing you would have to be aware of is to build in a floor duct to allow the hydraulic hoses to run to the control unit. I'm leaving a small channel in the built up floor with a removable top cover to allow access in case of any problems. There are 4 x 1/4" hoses going back to the control unit.
Yes you can set the individual ramps apart to your own requirements but there is a maximum which is dictated by the linking hose between to 2 ramps. Each ramp is 490mm wide so it does give quite a size coverage when spaced as per the manufacturers specifications.
In the standard spacing mine will take my Porsche 3.2 Carrera, BMW E36, BMW E39 & BMW E91.
When I move the car tomorrow I'll take some pics of the lifts in place.
The scissor lifts have quite a large solid base underneath virtually the length of the ramps themselves, so the weight is being spread out quite considerably.
If you were fitting a 2 post system then yes you'd probably need a reinforced floor pad.
One thing you would have to be aware of is to build in a floor duct to allow the hydraulic hoses to run to the control unit. I'm leaving a small channel in the built up floor with a removable top cover to allow access in case of any problems. There are 4 x 1/4" hoses going back to the control unit.
Yes you can set the individual ramps apart to your own requirements but there is a maximum which is dictated by the linking hose between to 2 ramps. Each ramp is 490mm wide so it does give quite a size coverage when spaced as per the manufacturers specifications.
In the standard spacing mine will take my Porsche 3.2 Carrera, BMW E36, BMW E39 & BMW E91.
When I move the car tomorrow I'll take some pics of the lifts in place.
Floor is now virtually complete. Here are the pics of the business end of the lift showing the hydraulic connections.
http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/rdear12552/libra...
Next job is to connect up the hydraulics so that I can raise the ramps to get at the holes in the bottom plate to drill the concrete for the anchor bolt holes which are supplied.
Richard
http://s1371.photobucket.com/user/rdear12552/libra...
Next job is to connect up the hydraulics so that I can raise the ramps to get at the holes in the bottom plate to drill the concrete for the anchor bolt holes which are supplied.
Richard
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