Learn to DIY Service and Maintain still possible?
Discussion
Ladies and gents,
Has anyone, or does anyone, have any hints and tips on learning to service and maintain relatively "new" cars?
Long story short I'm struggling to justify paying main dealer prices for services, and after trying a couple of independents I've a nagging doubt the extra I'm paying for genuine parts is nothing more than extra margin 😡😡
While I'm an engineer by training (so not completely mechanically useless!) I've never done more than changing a wheel - ha. My hesitation is more around both my cars (discovery 4 and bmw 1 series) don't feel like the easiest to start trying a bit of spannering on!
However, the ability to service and maintain my cars with the benefit of taking the time to do the job right with the best components is what is motivating me the most!
So am I mad and should just be handing over bundles of cash for the "main dealer service history"?
If not where do I start?
Has anyone, or does anyone, have any hints and tips on learning to service and maintain relatively "new" cars?
Long story short I'm struggling to justify paying main dealer prices for services, and after trying a couple of independents I've a nagging doubt the extra I'm paying for genuine parts is nothing more than extra margin 😡😡
While I'm an engineer by training (so not completely mechanically useless!) I've never done more than changing a wheel - ha. My hesitation is more around both my cars (discovery 4 and bmw 1 series) don't feel like the easiest to start trying a bit of spannering on!
However, the ability to service and maintain my cars with the benefit of taking the time to do the job right with the best components is what is motivating me the most!
So am I mad and should just be handing over bundles of cash for the "main dealer service history"?
If not where do I start?
Oil changes are easy - although you may wish to keep the book stamped up.
Brakes can be pricey at the garage, though. Easy enough to do them yourself if you have a few tools. You have enough to take the wheel off so you're halfway there.
I am assuming that you have some mechanical experience or, at least, knowledge.
Brakes can be pricey at the garage, though. Easy enough to do them yourself if you have a few tools. You have enough to take the wheel off so you're halfway there.
I am assuming that you have some mechanical experience or, at least, knowledge.
An engine oil change and front pad replacement is pretty simple on both your cars.
You will need a good pair of axle stands and a sturdy trolley jack plus a socket set with Torx and hex bits, a torque wrench, an oil filter tool for each, a drain bowl, a funnel. This lot will cost 3 or 4 hundred pounds but will last for decades.
Things like pollen filters, air filters, wipers and MOT checkovers are straight forward enough, YouTube is a mine of info as are the various owners forums.
Where things can get tricky is when you need to reset a warning light or code something in, ie service lights, new battery, pad wear monitor.
Not forgetting a level concrete area to work on, a sloping or tarmac drive won't do.
You will need a good pair of axle stands and a sturdy trolley jack plus a socket set with Torx and hex bits, a torque wrench, an oil filter tool for each, a drain bowl, a funnel. This lot will cost 3 or 4 hundred pounds but will last for decades.
Things like pollen filters, air filters, wipers and MOT checkovers are straight forward enough, YouTube is a mine of info as are the various owners forums.
Where things can get tricky is when you need to reset a warning light or code something in, ie service lights, new battery, pad wear monitor.
Not forgetting a level concrete area to work on, a sloping or tarmac drive won't do.
Thanks for the info
RSV: yes I do have some mechanical knowledge and a relatively good understanding of how a car works (engine suspension hydraulics etc) the degree is Aerospace based (hence the ID) my stumbling block has always been around the process of correctly removing and replacing in the right order, torque etc etc. For instances the disco has a epb system that from some research on other forums looks very sensitive to being correctly adjusted! And you guessed it, it's the rear discs that need doing!
Kev b: your point on a level concrete surface is interesting? I've got a level Tarmac/gravel drive, is the issue around load bearing of the surface or have I missed something?
Aero
RSV: yes I do have some mechanical knowledge and a relatively good understanding of how a car works (engine suspension hydraulics etc) the degree is Aerospace based (hence the ID) my stumbling block has always been around the process of correctly removing and replacing in the right order, torque etc etc. For instances the disco has a epb system that from some research on other forums looks very sensitive to being correctly adjusted! And you guessed it, it's the rear discs that need doing!
Kev b: your point on a level concrete surface is interesting? I've got a level Tarmac/gravel drive, is the issue around load bearing of the surface or have I missed something?
Aero
With a tarmac drive the wheels on your trolley jack may sink into the surface, the jack needs to be free to run on its wheels otherwise the saddle of the jack may slip off the jacking point. Personally I would avoid tarmac, gravel or block paving especially with a heavy beast like a Discovery.
Axle stands will sink into tarmac and gravel as well, probably not equally so they may tip over, you might be able to spread the load with a sheet of something solid but it's not going to be ideal, every year someone dies a slow death crushed under a car, best not risk it.
Rear brake pads can be difficult without the right tools to retract the pistons though
I think the 1 series has a typical BMW separate handbrake drum meaning rear pads are simple to change, the Disco is less easy but I am certain you will find a how to DIY on a LR forum.
Axle stands will sink into tarmac and gravel as well, probably not equally so they may tip over, you might be able to spread the load with a sheet of something solid but it's not going to be ideal, every year someone dies a slow death crushed under a car, best not risk it.
Rear brake pads can be difficult without the right tools to retract the pistons though
I think the 1 series has a typical BMW separate handbrake drum meaning rear pads are simple to change, the Disco is less easy but I am certain you will find a how to DIY on a LR forum.
A Haynes manual will give you all the guidance you need to tackle jobs from a simple oil & filter change to more difficult jobs, the modern Haynes rates the difficulty of tasks so you don't start something you can't finish.
I handled most jobs as I usually drive older cars where service history is less important that said I keep the receipts for parts I've fitted.
Some cars require specialist tools but in general I find a good selection of sockets with those unusual ones such as 14,16,18mm and open and ring spanner a short and longer does most jobs
I handled most jobs as I usually drive older cars where service history is less important that said I keep the receipts for parts I've fitted.
Some cars require specialist tools but in general I find a good selection of sockets with those unusual ones such as 14,16,18mm and open and ring spanner a short and longer does most jobs
Haynes manuals have gone off the boil in my recent experience and you are far better off looking at user forums and youtube videos.
As far as DIY goes, you need to decide how long you will keep the car for and what it's resale value will be. For me, if I have a £20k car for a couple of years with an eventual resale value of £10 - 12k then it's worth the stamp in the book from an indy / fast fit at least to keep the "FSH" & the added value that will give you. If it's a £2 - 3 k shed with only scrap value at the end then the extra value from the stamp just isn't worth it.
As far as DIY goes, you need to decide how long you will keep the car for and what it's resale value will be. For me, if I have a £20k car for a couple of years with an eventual resale value of £10 - 12k then it's worth the stamp in the book from an indy / fast fit at least to keep the "FSH" & the added value that will give you. If it's a £2 - 3 k shed with only scrap value at the end then the extra value from the stamp just isn't worth it.
Suggest you join http://www.disco4.com/forum/ for starters, you'll find lots of help there if disco3.co.uk is anything to go by.
Full LR workshop manuals should be available online or to purchase on eBay (either may not be 100% legal), they detail most operations step by step.
Next is the right set of tools, you will find some jobs require specialist tools, again some are available to purchase.
I find that most jobs require research (others are likely to have tried and documented online), common sense and a methodical approach, just be prepared for jobs taking a bit longer (sometimes) than main dealer if you're short of a tool, part or screw something up that requires additional work (that happens too).
Full LR workshop manuals should be available online or to purchase on eBay (either may not be 100% legal), they detail most operations step by step.
Next is the right set of tools, you will find some jobs require specialist tools, again some are available to purchase.
I find that most jobs require research (others are likely to have tried and documented online), common sense and a methodical approach, just be prepared for jobs taking a bit longer (sometimes) than main dealer if you're short of a tool, part or screw something up that requires additional work (that happens too).
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