Mk4 mondeo tdci cutting out
Discussion
Twice tonight my car, 2007 mk4 mondeo 2.0 tdci auto, cut out whilst driving along. First time the car restarted straight away but the second time it took a good ten minutes before it would fire up. Before any of this the car had been driving faultlessly and it was the same afterwards too. There was no loss of any electric either time, no lumpiness before or after, it was almost like I had just turned the engine off.
I phone for recovery the second time but managed to get it going so cancelled it once I had got home and speaking to the recovery guy he said it sounded like an EGR valve problem. He asked if it had started once it had cooled down a bit, which it did to which he claimed it was a common problem and a blanking plate with a hole in would cure it.
The car has about 175k but full ford history and was my dads car from new so I know the history of it and it's never had any issues before.
I phone for recovery the second time but managed to get it going so cancelled it once I had got home and speaking to the recovery guy he said it sounded like an EGR valve problem. He asked if it had started once it had cooled down a bit, which it did to which he claimed it was a common problem and a blanking plate with a hole in would cure it.
The car has about 175k but full ford history and was my dads car from new so I know the history of it and it's never had any issues before.
The crank sensor will have its own fault codes, but sometimes it is tricky for the ECU to spot a faulty one compared to an engine that stalled.
When the crank sensor stops sending a signal, it appears as a stopped engine, and all fueling will just stop too.
Crank sensors are known for being affected by heat and it matches the symptoms of a quick and immediate shut down, and taking 10-15 mins to cool down to start working again.
EGRs on Mondeos and Fords in general can be a pain, but I would expect them to give some sort of rough running.
When the crank sensor stops sending a signal, it appears as a stopped engine, and all fueling will just stop too.
Crank sensors are known for being affected by heat and it matches the symptoms of a quick and immediate shut down, and taking 10-15 mins to cool down to start working again.
EGRs on Mondeos and Fords in general can be a pain, but I would expect them to give some sort of rough running.
This problem is still occurring.
It will start from stone cold no problem at all but once it has run for a few minutes it just turns over but won't fire unless it has some help squirted down the intake pipe. It runs fine and pulls really well but randomly cuts out. No warning lights on the dash and plainly refuses to start afterwards.
No faults are coming up when a reader is plugged in. It's also had a new battery and a full service including the fuel filter. The service was at ford and all the advice they could offer was plugging it in.
It will start from stone cold no problem at all but once it has run for a few minutes it just turns over but won't fire unless it has some help squirted down the intake pipe. It runs fine and pulls really well but randomly cuts out. No warning lights on the dash and plainly refuses to start afterwards.
No faults are coming up when a reader is plugged in. It's also had a new battery and a full service including the fuel filter. The service was at ford and all the advice they could offer was plugging it in.
Try running it with the fuel filler cap loose or removed.
I had this with one of my cars last year - the fuel tank wasn't venting properly and the car would stop after a short time as the vacuum built up in the tank. Once it stopped, the tank vented and it would run again for a short time. Drove me mad troubleshooting that one!
Might not be the same problem, but at least won't cost anything to try it!
I had this with one of my cars last year - the fuel tank wasn't venting properly and the car would stop after a short time as the vacuum built up in the tank. Once it stopped, the tank vented and it would run again for a short time. Drove me mad troubleshooting that one!
Might not be the same problem, but at least won't cost anything to try it!
I think I have got a bit closer with this.
As far as I know there is a pump in the tank that feeds the injector pump on the engine. The fuel lines to the injector pump were dry and I can't hear this pump priming (I'm pretty sure I used to).
The fuse is fine and with it being an intermediate fault (although now it just won't start at all) I'm thinking it 'may' be a wiring issue but a session with the multimeter will tell.
UNLESS! someone says that there isn't a pump in the tank on my car and the the injector pump does both jobs, in which case it may have to go to a garage.
As far as I know there is a pump in the tank that feeds the injector pump on the engine. The fuel lines to the injector pump were dry and I can't hear this pump priming (I'm pretty sure I used to).
The fuse is fine and with it being an intermediate fault (although now it just won't start at all) I'm thinking it 'may' be a wiring issue but a session with the multimeter will tell.
UNLESS! someone says that there isn't a pump in the tank on my car and the the injector pump does both jobs, in which case it may have to go to a garage.
And still it doesn't run!
There is no air in the system, cleaned the inlet butterfly valve and sensors because it was all thick with sludge (which now have fault codes), fuel pump solenoid is working.
Crank position sensor has been mentioned but surely it wouldn't run at all if this was faulty?
I have read about people changing the injectors, injector pump, everything and the problem still persists. Also the starter has been mentioned but again it does start with assistance and it also wouldn't be the cause of it cutting out while running.
It must be something pretty obvious I have missed.
There is no air in the system, cleaned the inlet butterfly valve and sensors because it was all thick with sludge (which now have fault codes), fuel pump solenoid is working.
Crank position sensor has been mentioned but surely it wouldn't run at all if this was faulty?
I have read about people changing the injectors, injector pump, everything and the problem still persists. Also the starter has been mentioned but again it does start with assistance and it also wouldn't be the cause of it cutting out while running.
It must be something pretty obvious I have missed.
Gtom said:
Crank position sensor has been mentioned but surely it wouldn't run at all if this was faulty?
It must be something pretty obvious I have missed.
I am not saying that is what it is, but just remember that with certain electronic components heat can cause them to breakdown in use as they get warm.It must be something pretty obvious I have missed.
Gtom,
Your 2007 Fiord should have an OBD socket, and if you can get fault codes out of it you can stop wondering what component is the problem.#
Lots of OBD reader apps, some with Bluetooth dongles to plug into the socket, eg: http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Reader-Compatible-...
John
Your 2007 Fiord should have an OBD socket, and if you can get fault codes out of it you can stop wondering what component is the problem.#
Lots of OBD reader apps, some with Bluetooth dongles to plug into the socket, eg: http://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Reader-Compatible-...
John
There is no pump in the tank on a mondeo TDCI, it's pulled from the high pressure pump to the engine.
I'll take a guess at that mileage and from the faults you are listing that the injectors have gone faulty and are not achieving the required pressure so the ecu won't fire them.
You may not see a fault code if plug an obd scanner in.
There are two ways of checking, one is to do a leak off test and see what you get.
The other is to take the injectors out and have them tested app £20 each, but beware when you have checked them and refitted they can be a bar steward to go again due to air in the system.
I've had this happen on two mondeo tdci's and they are well known for this to happen, normally the glow plug light flashes and you loose power. Stop engine restart and fault goes away until you hit 3000 rpm.
mike
I'll take a guess at that mileage and from the faults you are listing that the injectors have gone faulty and are not achieving the required pressure so the ecu won't fire them.
You may not see a fault code if plug an obd scanner in.
There are two ways of checking, one is to do a leak off test and see what you get.
The other is to take the injectors out and have them tested app £20 each, but beware when you have checked them and refitted they can be a bar steward to go again due to air in the system.
I've had this happen on two mondeo tdci's and they are well known for this to happen, normally the glow plug light flashes and you loose power. Stop engine restart and fault goes away until you hit 3000 rpm.
mike
I have had forscan on the car tonight.
309 bar on the fuel pressure when cranking
271 rev/min when cranking
The only fault code is 0464 which is the egr and thats in the boot so I'm cool with that
The strange thing is the car started up first time and carried on starting but this got gradually worse until it wouldn't start but it still had 300+ bar fuel pressue. It's been stood untouched since monday evening until and hour ago if that has anything to do with it?
One more thing, when starting the car, it only turns over in bursts of about 5 seconds at a time, any ideas?
309 bar on the fuel pressure when cranking
271 rev/min when cranking
The only fault code is 0464 which is the egr and thats in the boot so I'm cool with that
The strange thing is the car started up first time and carried on starting but this got gradually worse until it wouldn't start but it still had 300+ bar fuel pressue. It's been stood untouched since monday evening until and hour ago if that has anything to do with it?
One more thing, when starting the car, it only turns over in bursts of about 5 seconds at a time, any ideas?
The fuel pressure rail might be seeing 300 bar but if it's sending the fuel back to the tank from the injectors then they won't fire.
It won't necessarly show a fault code.
If the egr valve is playing up then that won't normally stop the engine from running, what can happen is that it won't allow the turbo to build the correct boost pressure so the engine won't give full power ie limp home mode.
You really need to do a leak off check to see whats happening.
With regards to the starter only working for approx 5 secs it's something ford have programmed into the ecu software to try and stop you burning the starter motor out.
It won't necessarly show a fault code.
If the egr valve is playing up then that won't normally stop the engine from running, what can happen is that it won't allow the turbo to build the correct boost pressure so the engine won't give full power ie limp home mode.
You really need to do a leak off check to see whats happening.
With regards to the starter only working for approx 5 secs it's something ford have programmed into the ecu software to try and stop you burning the starter motor out.
Hi All,
I got Ford Mondeo 2007 new shape MK4. Zetec 1.8 TDCi. Currently is on 128,000 miles.
In April 2019, I got timing belt, water pump, full major service done.
In May 2019, 2 injector seals (cooper washer seals) were changed as my mechanic said it was making whistle noise. Mechanic also cleaned those 2 injectors.
On 25th August 2019, I had an issue where the car started and then cut off. After that, I cranked many times but no luck. Recovered to my mechanic who bleed the system and car started driving fine. He said the air went into the system but now it's fine.
In September, same issue happened again where the car started in the morning and after few seconds it cut off, after cranking many times It eventually started. Once it starts, the car drives fine with no issues. It's just to do with starting off the car when the car is not in use for many hours i.e. overnight and trying after parking at work for 8 hours.
Again it happened in September,recovered to mechanic who again bleed the system and car started and driven fine.
In October it happened few times again, but the car stared after cranking few times.
In November/December 2019, all the glow plugs were changed but same issue happened few times and mechanic bleed the system again.
In January 2020, full major service carried out including fuel filter. But unfortunately, the issue persists and I am really disappointed as I have spent on the car and have done all the major work (clutch, flywheel, timing belt, water pump etc.)
Mechanic advised me to take it to Ford to diagnose but I can't afford to go to Ford.
Mechanic said seems like the fuel runs back to the tank and then due to air getting in the system, sometimes fuel never comes from the tank to the fuel filter. There is no fuel pump in the tank for this car.
Computer is showing error code P0087-00 FUEL RAIL/SYSTEM PRESSURE - TOO LOW
Can please someone advise me on this as I am suffering from this issue for the last 6 months and really need car fixing for my family?
I am in Leeds, so if someone knows any good Ford Mechanic who can resolve this issue, then please let me know their details?
Many Thanks in Advance
Gagan
I got Ford Mondeo 2007 new shape MK4. Zetec 1.8 TDCi. Currently is on 128,000 miles.
In April 2019, I got timing belt, water pump, full major service done.
In May 2019, 2 injector seals (cooper washer seals) were changed as my mechanic said it was making whistle noise. Mechanic also cleaned those 2 injectors.
On 25th August 2019, I had an issue where the car started and then cut off. After that, I cranked many times but no luck. Recovered to my mechanic who bleed the system and car started driving fine. He said the air went into the system but now it's fine.
In September, same issue happened again where the car started in the morning and after few seconds it cut off, after cranking many times It eventually started. Once it starts, the car drives fine with no issues. It's just to do with starting off the car when the car is not in use for many hours i.e. overnight and trying after parking at work for 8 hours.
Again it happened in September,recovered to mechanic who again bleed the system and car started and driven fine.
In October it happened few times again, but the car stared after cranking few times.
In November/December 2019, all the glow plugs were changed but same issue happened few times and mechanic bleed the system again.
In January 2020, full major service carried out including fuel filter. But unfortunately, the issue persists and I am really disappointed as I have spent on the car and have done all the major work (clutch, flywheel, timing belt, water pump etc.)
Mechanic advised me to take it to Ford to diagnose but I can't afford to go to Ford.
Mechanic said seems like the fuel runs back to the tank and then due to air getting in the system, sometimes fuel never comes from the tank to the fuel filter. There is no fuel pump in the tank for this car.
Computer is showing error code P0087-00 FUEL RAIL/SYSTEM PRESSURE - TOO LOW
Can please someone advise me on this as I am suffering from this issue for the last 6 months and really need car fixing for my family?
I am in Leeds, so if someone knows any good Ford Mechanic who can resolve this issue, then please let me know their details?
Many Thanks in Advance
Gagan
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