Clarke CEW1000 impact wrench - feedback (mine's useless!)
Discussion
Sorry to bump this thread. I've got the Moss version of this impact wrench as it was £20 cheaper. It's really impressive took wheel nuts and a hub nut off in seconds. I bought this mainly for the hub nut as I couldn't shift it to do a CV joint on my Mazda 2. I hit a stumbling block though as I couldn't undo the pinch bolt on the wishbone ball joint, just a bit of corrosion etc. I didn't have a 14mm impact socket. I just have a question regarding this wrench as I could get to the bolt with this.
I was just wondering the bolt in question has a 14mm head, not sure what the diameter of the bolt is. This gun is supposed to be 450nm. There's no way of varying the torque applied. I'm just concerned if it snaps the head off the bolt. It would put me in all kinds of trouble. I just wondered what people's thoughts are on this? Would I be better taking it to a garage or buying a smaller impact wrench. The instructions are terrible. Just not sure if there's a minimum diameter of bolt that this should be used on?
I was just wondering the bolt in question has a 14mm head, not sure what the diameter of the bolt is. This gun is supposed to be 450nm. There's no way of varying the torque applied. I'm just concerned if it snaps the head off the bolt. It would put me in all kinds of trouble. I just wondered what people's thoughts are on this? Would I be better taking it to a garage or buying a smaller impact wrench. The instructions are terrible. Just not sure if there's a minimum diameter of bolt that this should be used on?
That's the risk with all rattle guns. And the same risk with a breaker bar plus scaffolding poles etc.
Try heat and/or a 'freeze and release' type spray.
As you are sure it's corroded then I would use a hex socket with a normal length ratchet to reduce the risk of taking its head off.
Try heat and/or a 'freeze and release' type spray.
As you are sure it's corroded then I would use a hex socket with a normal length ratchet to reduce the risk of taking its head off.
One thing I found some years ago when I feared collateral damage if heat wasn't easy to use in context, was simply to use a fine HSS bit in a drill, and stitch some holes carefully through the nut if you can get to it, then a sharp tap or two with a cold chisel will split/peel the nut off without collateral damage*. you can actually buy things called 'nutsplitters' to just this, without drilling: e.g. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht246-nut-splitte... - not tried them myself, but would/will at some point.
- long time ago I had a couple of Beetles, where to check rear brakeshoes/change/grease etc, you have to pull the rear drum off (the wheel bolts to the drum, the drum locate on driveshaft spline, one big nut on a c.32mm thread holds the lot together - and it is done up to something stupid like 'min 250Nm + up to 1/6th turn to align castellated nut next for split-pin'. Getting these things off decades later is an infamous sod of a job, , but drilling 2mm hole through the nut end face toward the boss on the drum it bears on, tapping lighlty along that line with a chisel and watching the nut vanish - damn quick, painless, and a new nut only £4.
Edited by Huff on Saturday 19th December 18:10
Huff said:
One thing I found some years ago when I feared collateral damage if heat wasn't easy to use in context, was simply to use a fine HSS bit in a drill, and stitch some holes carefully through the nut if you can get to it, then a sharp tap or two with a cold chisel will split/peel the nut off without collateral damage*. you can actually buy things called 'nutsplitters' to just this, without drilling: e.g. https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/cht246-nut-splitte... - not tried them myself, but would/will at some point.
But splitter's often don't work very we'll on normal nuts- long time ago I had a couple of Beetles, where to check rear brakeshoes/change/grease etc, you have to pull the rear drum off (the wheel bolts to the drum, the drum locate on driveshaft spline, one big nut on a c.32mm thread holds the lot together - and it is done up to something stupid like 'min 250Nm + up to 1/6th turn to align castellated nut next for split-pin'. Getting these things off decades later is an infamous sod of a job, , but drilling 2mm hole through the nut end face toward the boss on the drum it bears on, tapping lighlty along that line with a chisel and watching the nut vanish - damn quick, painless, and a new nut only £4.
Edited by Huff on Saturday 19th December 18:10
You've got no chance on a high tensile one like those on suspension struts ect
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