Coolant fluid leak? Vts saxo
Discussion
Hi, i got home the other day after a cam belt change at a garage and left my phone in car.
Anyway i noticed this leak dripping just below the radiator on the front passenger side. Its a pinkish colour..
Am i correct in thinking its Coolant Fluid?
Anybody had same problem or know how to fix?
The filler cap was abit wet too so could be that but im not sure as ive not touched it
Anyway i noticed this leak dripping just below the radiator on the front passenger side. Its a pinkish colour..
Am i correct in thinking its Coolant Fluid?
Anybody had same problem or know how to fix?
The filler cap was abit wet too so could be that but im not sure as ive not touched it
Edited by Pezonee on Wednesday 20th July 09:01
PICTURE IS UPSIDE DOWNEdited by Pezonee on Wednesday 20th July 09:04
It's a PSA TU engine, which are notoriously difficult to bleed properly when you fill up the coolant. Get air locks and then ingoing issues which can lead to head gasket/ head issues and coolant pissing out.
Not familiar with the details on a Saxo tbh, but dealt with TU engines before. First thing to do is top up the coolant circuit properly. Essentially you need to create a temporary extra header tank, old pop bottle cut down usually, find a means to connect this to the filler cap, then when you've got the system full there will be bleed nipples on the circuit to get rid of trapped air. Pop bottle header tank held up high allows you to really get the air out. If you don't as above you can get terminal cylinder head problems.
Good description of the method here http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=...
Good luck, but ime TU engines kicking out coolant is often not a good sign, hope it's just whoever did your cam belt didn't know all the tricks on refilling and you've not added too many miles.
Not familiar with the details on a Saxo tbh, but dealt with TU engines before. First thing to do is top up the coolant circuit properly. Essentially you need to create a temporary extra header tank, old pop bottle cut down usually, find a means to connect this to the filler cap, then when you've got the system full there will be bleed nipples on the circuit to get rid of trapped air. Pop bottle header tank held up high allows you to really get the air out. If you don't as above you can get terminal cylinder head problems.
Good description of the method here http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=...
Good luck, but ime TU engines kicking out coolant is often not a good sign, hope it's just whoever did your cam belt didn't know all the tricks on refilling and you've not added too many miles.
FiF said:
It's a PSA TU engine, which are notoriously difficult to bleed properly when you fill up the coolant. Get air locks and then ingoing issues which can lead to head gasket/ head issues and coolant pissing out.
Not familiar with the details on a Saxo tbh, but dealt with TU engines before. First thing to do is top up the coolant circuit properly. Essentially you need to create a temporary extra header tank, old pop bottle cut down usually, find a means to connect this to the filler cap, then when you've got the system full there will be bleed nipples on the circuit to get rid of trapped air. Pop bottle header tank held up high allows you to really get the air out. If you don't as above you can get terminal cylinder head problems.
Good description of the method here http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=...
Good luck, but ime TU engines kicking out coolant is often not a good sign, hope it's just whoever did your cam belt didn't know all the tricks on refilling and you've not added too many miles.
Cheers for that bud, well it was going back in tomorrow for tyres and ive phoned them and said how it wasnt there before so i'll se what they say.Not familiar with the details on a Saxo tbh, but dealt with TU engines before. First thing to do is top up the coolant circuit properly. Essentially you need to create a temporary extra header tank, old pop bottle cut down usually, find a means to connect this to the filler cap, then when you've got the system full there will be bleed nipples on the circuit to get rid of trapped air. Pop bottle header tank held up high allows you to really get the air out. If you don't as above you can get terminal cylinder head problems.
Good description of the method here http://www.saxperience.com/forum/showthread.php?t=...
Good luck, but ime TU engines kicking out coolant is often not a good sign, hope it's just whoever did your cam belt didn't know all the tricks on refilling and you've not added too many miles.
Would they have had to touch anything to do with this i:e radiator ect to do a full Cam/water pump change
Old Merc said:
You say a garage has just replaced the cam belt,I would have a word with them first before you touch a thing.
Could be a number of things? possible "elbow problem" when dismantling? left overs from bleeding the cooling system? etc etc.
Think your right there, i just dont want them to try telling me they have not touched it,Could be a number of things? possible "elbow problem" when dismantling? left overs from bleeding the cooling system? etc etc.
This is why i would like to know if the cam/water pump change involve's touching any of the connecting pipes removing radiator ect
Cheers for your input
You want to figure out if it's actually leaking on the nearside, or if it's leaking on the offside and then dribbling along to the nearside.
If it's on the nearside, it can only really be top hose, or where the oil cooler hoses are routed. They could be chafing on something. You'd probably touch neither of these while doing a cambelt, though.
If it's dribbled over from the offside, then it could be the bottom hose connection to the rad, or worse still it could be the lower drive belt pulley rubbing on the bottom hose where they might not have clipped it back in properly. You do touch all that stuff when you do the cambelt.
Or it could be a radiator leak, probably totally unrelated and just bad luck.
Or.....it might just have kicked out some fluid from the header in the radiator, if they'd overfilled it (no big deal) or if they haven't bled it properly, though that's unlikely as the TU is easy to bleed back in.
If it's on the nearside, it can only really be top hose, or where the oil cooler hoses are routed. They could be chafing on something. You'd probably touch neither of these while doing a cambelt, though.
If it's dribbled over from the offside, then it could be the bottom hose connection to the rad, or worse still it could be the lower drive belt pulley rubbing on the bottom hose where they might not have clipped it back in properly. You do touch all that stuff when you do the cambelt.
Or it could be a radiator leak, probably totally unrelated and just bad luck.
Or.....it might just have kicked out some fluid from the header in the radiator, if they'd overfilled it (no big deal) or if they haven't bled it properly, though that's unlikely as the TU is easy to bleed back in.
If they have changed the water pump various items on a 16V TU would have been removed to get to the timing cover.Early models had a separate cooling system header tank,that would have to be removed as well.
Looking at your image the coolant is around the bottom n/side of the rad`.Directly above on the top of the rad` there is a bleed valve.Either its just residue from when they bled it,or the valve is leaking a bit,which is common after being disturbed as its a plastic push and turn with an "O" ring.
Looking at your image the coolant is around the bottom n/side of the rad`.Directly above on the top of the rad` there is a bleed valve.Either its just residue from when they bled it,or the valve is leaking a bit,which is common after being disturbed as its a plastic push and turn with an "O" ring.
Edited by Old Merc on Wednesday 20th July 17:52
If it's a VTS it won't have a separate header tank, it's integral with the radiator.
Having done the cambelt the waterpump should have been done too.
The bleed points are on the thermostat housing on the flywheel side of the head, the heater pipework on the cambelt side of the inlet manifold (it uses a tyre valve cap for sealing), and a pull-out plug on the upper passenger side of the radiator.
From your picture the latter will be the source, that or the top hose connection at the top of the radiator. The plug should wiggle in comfortably with a pair of pliers. Be gentle if tightening up a jubilee clip as the thermostat and radiator connections are both plastic.
Having done the cambelt the waterpump should have been done too.
The bleed points are on the thermostat housing on the flywheel side of the head, the heater pipework on the cambelt side of the inlet manifold (it uses a tyre valve cap for sealing), and a pull-out plug on the upper passenger side of the radiator.
From your picture the latter will be the source, that or the top hose connection at the top of the radiator. The plug should wiggle in comfortably with a pair of pliers. Be gentle if tightening up a jubilee clip as the thermostat and radiator connections are both plastic.
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