Discussion
Penelope Stopit said:
The discussion that has turned into a comedy sketch due to some idiotic and piss taking postings is about protecting or not protecting a battery chargers cables where they connect to the battery
For the N'th time, why will you not listen?IT IS NOT ABOUT PROTECTING THE BATTERY LEADS!!!!!!!!!
THE SUGGESTION TO FUSE THE LEADS WAS TO PROTECT THE BATTERY FROM A SHORT CIRCUIT ACROSS IT!
THE SUGGESTION TO FUSE THE LEADS WAS TO PROTECT THE BATTERY FROM A SHORT CIRCUIT ACROSS IT!
THE SUGGESTION TO FUSE THE LEADS WAS TO PROTECT THE BATTERY FROM A SHORT CIRCUIT ACROSS IT!
THE SUGGESTION TO FUSE THE LEADS WAS TO PROTECT THE BATTERY FROM A SHORT CIRCUIT ACROSS IT!
THE SUGGESTION TO FUSE THE LEADS WAS TO PROTECT THE BATTERY FROM A SHORT CIRCUIT ACROSS IT!
THE SUGGESTION TO FUSE THE LEADS WAS TO PROTECT THE BATTERY FROM A SHORT CIRCUIT ACROSS IT!
THE SUGGESTION TO FUSE THE LEADS WAS TO PROTECT THE BATTERY FROM A SHORT CIRCUIT ACROSS IT!
THE SUGGESTION TO FUSE THE LEADS WAS TO PROTECT THE BATTERY FROM A SHORT CIRCUIT ACROSS IT!
Have you got it yet?
Penelope Stopit said:
You will notice that the 2 idiots in question here have typed much in telling me that I dont understand the basic principles of electricity, yet those 2 same idiots have typed next to nothing in explaining how to go about a simple task the correct way, also these 2 idiots are incorrect with the information and are lacking information they have given here
No, I think you will find several have tried & as above you seem incapable of actually reading & understanding.Penelope Stopit said:
This is an idiot problem, not me being a problem
Since when has it been acceptable that an idiot can post idiotic methods yet a knowledgeable person can't challenge those methods posted, surely this is what is so good about internet forums, idiots can be wisened over the errors in their ways although it does take time
Heaven forbid the thought! Clearly you are a god of such things.Since when has it been acceptable that an idiot can post idiotic methods yet a knowledgeable person can't challenge those methods posted, surely this is what is so good about internet forums, idiots can be wisened over the errors in their ways although it does take time
You are telling me it takes time!
Hi OP here 
Happy new year all
I've ordered the Ctek eyelet comfort connector (incidentally it comes fused)
http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/Comfort%20Indic...
And a Ctek 2.5m extension. (which won't be long enough)
http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/Comfort%20Conne...
Ctek say you shouldn't use a longer lead because of voltage drop. I'm thinking that during a maintenance cycle (rather than a charge) current draw will be minimal, so I'll extend the 2.5m cable to suit.
If I need to charge a battery, and have a higher current draw, I'll just use a shorter cable.
I found this handy "current draw/voltage drop/cable size calculator" which answered my original question.
http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selecti...
Thank you all for your contributions.
Happy new year allI've ordered the Ctek eyelet comfort connector (incidentally it comes fused)
http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/Comfort%20Indic...
And a Ctek 2.5m extension. (which won't be long enough)
http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/Comfort%20Conne...
Ctek say you shouldn't use a longer lead because of voltage drop. I'm thinking that during a maintenance cycle (rather than a charge) current draw will be minimal, so I'll extend the 2.5m cable to suit.
If I need to charge a battery, and have a higher current draw, I'll just use a shorter cable.
I found this handy "current draw/voltage drop/cable size calculator" which answered my original question.
http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selecti...
Thank you all for your contributions.
Edited by PositronicRay on Monday 2nd January 08:14
PositronicRay said:
Hi OP here Happy new year all
I've ordered the Ctek eyelet comfort connector (incidentally it comes fused)
http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/Comfort%20Indic...
And a Ctek 2.5m extension. (which won't be long enough)
http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/Comfort%20Conne...
Ctek say you shouldn't use a longer lead because of voltage drop. I'm thinking that during a maintenance cycle (rather than a charge) current draw will be minimal, so I'll extend the 2.5m cable to suit.
If I need to charge a battery, and have a higher current draw, I'll just use a shorter cable.
I found this handy "current draw/voltage drop/cable size calculator" which answered my original question.
http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selecti...
Thank you all for your contributions.
Reviving an old post here. Could you connect 2 x 2.5 cables together to make a longer one within inbuilt connectors? Happy new year allI've ordered the Ctek eyelet comfort connector (incidentally it comes fused)
http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/Comfort%20Indic...
And a Ctek 2.5m extension. (which won't be long enough)
http://www.ctek.com/gb/en/chargers/Comfort%20Conne...
Ctek say you shouldn't use a longer lead because of voltage drop. I'm thinking that during a maintenance cycle (rather than a charge) current draw will be minimal, so I'll extend the 2.5m cable to suit.
If I need to charge a battery, and have a higher current draw, I'll just use a shorter cable.
I found this handy "current draw/voltage drop/cable size calculator" which answered my original question.
http://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selecti...
Thank you all for your contributions.
Edited by PositronicRay on Monday 2nd January 08:14
yes you can, but what do you mean about inbuilt connectors ?
need to understand what you are trying to do, you know what you want to do but its not come over well...
two cables being paralleled up I take it, as long as you properly and securely join the cables, and that you repeat for other cable.
need to understand what you are trying to do, you know what you want to do but its not come over well...
two cables being paralleled up I take it, as long as you properly and securely join the cables, and that you repeat for other cable.
Having read the topic and seen the all to often crap and trolling I am posting my simplified thoughts.
I have used a Ctech for several years. In the garage. An extension cable to extend connectivity as I haven’t got round to adding a better placed socket. Never had any issues. The cTech is left connected as it does it’s smart thing to maintain the battery. The battery is an Odyssey 925 and at least 9 years old ( was on the car when bought). I have used Ctech connectors bolted to the terminals and the plug connector fits to this. Sealed connector with a release clip. I prefer this to the power socket method. The only battery problem was my fault...left lights on and drained it, not connected to the charger. The Ctech recharged it and no problems since. However, recently the mode button has been playing up. I opened the unit, cleaned it and now ok. The button presses down onto a microswitch on a pcb and is a known long use weakness.
I have used a Ctech for several years. In the garage. An extension cable to extend connectivity as I haven’t got round to adding a better placed socket. Never had any issues. The cTech is left connected as it does it’s smart thing to maintain the battery. The battery is an Odyssey 925 and at least 9 years old ( was on the car when bought). I have used Ctech connectors bolted to the terminals and the plug connector fits to this. Sealed connector with a release clip. I prefer this to the power socket method. The only battery problem was my fault...left lights on and drained it, not connected to the charger. The Ctech recharged it and no problems since. However, recently the mode button has been playing up. I opened the unit, cleaned it and now ok. The button presses down onto a microswitch on a pcb and is a known long use weakness.
I bought one of the Victron units mentioned earlier. So far so good. Too early to say how durable they are, but the bluetooth interface means the physical buttons are redundant so that's one less thing to go wrong. It's reassuring to see the charger keeping the battery voltage on target and see how much charge it's needing to do that. Also quite impressive that the bluetooth connection works despite being under the bonnet on the far side of the vehicle with a brick wall in the way.
I can't resist but to stick a word in.
1. If you are leaving an extension lead anywhere for a long time, even if it's a nominal 12 V, you should think of it as a permanent installation. Have a search for any standards that might be applicable. If there's nothing for domestic systems, there may be for caravans or industrial.
2. Most conventional electrical standards require some sort of circuit protection at the supply end of the cable. This is to protect generally against overload, especially the cables. The charger and battery system is particular in that it has a supply at both ends.
3. We assume that the smart charger is smart enough to protect itself and the line from its supply. With a short line indoors, where damage to the unattended cable is extremely unlikely, this is likely to be sufficient.
4. The battery is also a supply that can deliver a high current. Since there is a long cable running from it, it makes sense to have protection at the battery end. Since the terminals of the battery are floating relative to earth, there is no danger from leakage to ground. The risk is from a short circuit between the positive and negative lines. As such, the cable (and the battery) can be protected by a single fuse in either positive or negative lines of the cable near the battery. As lead-acid batteries give off hydrogen during charge, the fuse should be a sealed type or positioned somewhere on the vehicle physically isolated from the battery.
5. Another point concerns protection from sparks where the cable attaches to the wiring of the vehicle or the battery terminals. The final connection should be of a fixed form that is unlikely to become accidentally detached and cause a spark in an area where a flammable gas mixture might have accumulated. This particularly important if someone forgets the charging system is attached and drives off. A warning notice on the steering wheel is appropriate (I do that with my C-tek in my garage).
6. With points 4 and 5 in mind, there's much to be said for either
- A) attaching the charging system to the vehicle via a cigarette lighter socket in the passenger compartment
or
- B) taking the battery out of the car, keeping it in a shed or garage, and giving it a charge once a month to maintain it.
A final point is what causes the short circuit in any electrical cable. We don't know when we design the circuit. It could water ingress, Bert the gardener with his spade, a well-meaning neighbour, or the mad axeman.
And I hope that makes everyone, unanimously (un)happy!
1. If you are leaving an extension lead anywhere for a long time, even if it's a nominal 12 V, you should think of it as a permanent installation. Have a search for any standards that might be applicable. If there's nothing for domestic systems, there may be for caravans or industrial.
2. Most conventional electrical standards require some sort of circuit protection at the supply end of the cable. This is to protect generally against overload, especially the cables. The charger and battery system is particular in that it has a supply at both ends.
3. We assume that the smart charger is smart enough to protect itself and the line from its supply. With a short line indoors, where damage to the unattended cable is extremely unlikely, this is likely to be sufficient.
4. The battery is also a supply that can deliver a high current. Since there is a long cable running from it, it makes sense to have protection at the battery end. Since the terminals of the battery are floating relative to earth, there is no danger from leakage to ground. The risk is from a short circuit between the positive and negative lines. As such, the cable (and the battery) can be protected by a single fuse in either positive or negative lines of the cable near the battery. As lead-acid batteries give off hydrogen during charge, the fuse should be a sealed type or positioned somewhere on the vehicle physically isolated from the battery.
5. Another point concerns protection from sparks where the cable attaches to the wiring of the vehicle or the battery terminals. The final connection should be of a fixed form that is unlikely to become accidentally detached and cause a spark in an area where a flammable gas mixture might have accumulated. This particularly important if someone forgets the charging system is attached and drives off. A warning notice on the steering wheel is appropriate (I do that with my C-tek in my garage).
6. With points 4 and 5 in mind, there's much to be said for either
- A) attaching the charging system to the vehicle via a cigarette lighter socket in the passenger compartment
or
- B) taking the battery out of the car, keeping it in a shed or garage, and giving it a charge once a month to maintain it.
A final point is what causes the short circuit in any electrical cable. We don't know when we design the circuit. It could water ingress, Bert the gardener with his spade, a well-meaning neighbour, or the mad axeman.
And I hope that makes everyone, unanimously (un)happy!
Peter3442 said:
I can't resist but to stick a word in.
1. If you are leaving an extension lead anywhere for a long time, even if it's a nominal 12 V, you should think of it as a permanent installation. Have a search for any standards that might be applicable. If there's nothing for domestic systems, there may be for caravans or industrial.
2. Most conventional electrical standards require some sort of circuit protection at the supply end of the cable. This is to protect generally against overload, especially the cables. The charger and battery system is particular in that it has a supply at both ends.
3. We assume that the smart charger is smart enough to protect itself and the line from its supply. With a short line indoors, where damage to the unattended cable is extremely unlikely, this is likely to be sufficient.
4. The battery is also a supply that can deliver a high current. Since there is a long cable running from it, it makes sense to have protection at the battery end. Since the terminals of the battery are floating relative to earth, there is no danger from leakage to ground. The risk is from a short circuit between the positive and negative lines. As such, the cable (and the battery) can be protected by a single fuse in either positive or negative lines of the cable near the battery. As lead-acid batteries give off hydrogen during charge, the fuse should be a sealed type or positioned somewhere on the vehicle physically isolated from the battery.
5. Another point concerns protection from sparks where the cable attaches to the wiring of the vehicle or the battery terminals. The final connection should be of a fixed form that is unlikely to become accidentally detached and cause a spark in an area where a flammable gas mixture might have accumulated. This particularly important if someone forgets the charging system is attached and drives off. A warning notice on the steering wheel is appropriate (I do that with my C-tek in my garage).
6. With points 4 and 5 in mind, there's much to be said for either
- A) attaching the charging system to the vehicle via a cigarette lighter socket in the passenger compartment
or
- B) taking the battery out of the car, keeping it in a shed or garage, and giving it a charge once a month to maintain it.
A final point is what causes the short circuit in any electrical cable. We don't know when we design the circuit. It could water ingress, Bert the gardener with his spade, a well-meaning neighbour, or the mad axeman.
And I hope that makes everyone, unanimously (un)happy!
Have you even seen any of the CTEK connectivity solutions? They are also zero volt/spark free when connected. 1. If you are leaving an extension lead anywhere for a long time, even if it's a nominal 12 V, you should think of it as a permanent installation. Have a search for any standards that might be applicable. If there's nothing for domestic systems, there may be for caravans or industrial.
2. Most conventional electrical standards require some sort of circuit protection at the supply end of the cable. This is to protect generally against overload, especially the cables. The charger and battery system is particular in that it has a supply at both ends.
3. We assume that the smart charger is smart enough to protect itself and the line from its supply. With a short line indoors, where damage to the unattended cable is extremely unlikely, this is likely to be sufficient.
4. The battery is also a supply that can deliver a high current. Since there is a long cable running from it, it makes sense to have protection at the battery end. Since the terminals of the battery are floating relative to earth, there is no danger from leakage to ground. The risk is from a short circuit between the positive and negative lines. As such, the cable (and the battery) can be protected by a single fuse in either positive or negative lines of the cable near the battery. As lead-acid batteries give off hydrogen during charge, the fuse should be a sealed type or positioned somewhere on the vehicle physically isolated from the battery.
5. Another point concerns protection from sparks where the cable attaches to the wiring of the vehicle or the battery terminals. The final connection should be of a fixed form that is unlikely to become accidentally detached and cause a spark in an area where a flammable gas mixture might have accumulated. This particularly important if someone forgets the charging system is attached and drives off. A warning notice on the steering wheel is appropriate (I do that with my C-tek in my garage).
6. With points 4 and 5 in mind, there's much to be said for either
- A) attaching the charging system to the vehicle via a cigarette lighter socket in the passenger compartment
or
- B) taking the battery out of the car, keeping it in a shed or garage, and giving it a charge once a month to maintain it.
A final point is what causes the short circuit in any electrical cable. We don't know when we design the circuit. It could water ingress, Bert the gardener with his spade, a well-meaning neighbour, or the mad axeman.
And I hope that makes everyone, unanimously (un)happy!
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