Heated rear screen repairs

[naffa]

My heated rear window doesnt work due to the fact the connector tab has broken from the screen. Is it diy fixable or does it usually mean a new screen? Ive got windscreen cover on my insurance with a £10 excess are the insurers likely to replace the screen if necessary because the connector is broken?

Thanks Nathan

[Penelope Stopit]

HRW's are often repairable by cleaning up the area where the terminal has come off or the area just above or below it, now clean up the terminal and get a good coating of solder on it, wrap the terminal where the wire goes on it with cardboard so that you can grip the terminal by the cardboard with pointed pliers, the cardboard stops the heat being taken away from the terminal by the pliers. Hold the terminal to the screen and apply a very hot soldering iron to the opposite side of the soldered face, this needs a steady hand to hold the terminal in place until the solder hardens
I have never seen a screen crack when this method has been carried out
If the screen does crack you can claim for a new one on your insurance
Lets now wait and see what the idiots here have got in mind

[Sheepshanks]

I was looking at this yesterday as our Tiguan seems to have a break in some of the elements and found this old post which still has some valid solutions, including for the tab: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=792...

[daveenty]

Penelope Stopit said:

HRW's are often repairable by cleaning up the area where the terminal has come off or the area just above or below it, now clean up the terminal and get a good coating of solder on it, wrap the terminal where the wire goes on it with cardboard so that you can grip the terminal by the cardboard with pointed pliers, the cardboard stops the heat being taken away from the terminal by the pliers. Hold the terminal to the screen and apply a very hot soldering iron to the opposite side of the soldered face, this needs a steady hand to hold the terminal in place until the solder hardens
I have never seen a screen crack when this method has been carried out
If the screen does crack you can claim for a new one on your insurance
Lets now wait and see what the idiots here have got in mind

Hopefully not an idiotic response, but I tried this method on one of mine and failed miserably. I wish I'd read this before I attempted it, as there are a couple of subtle nuances I missed. The cardboard on the terminal to prevent heat loss was one. It's a logical thing thinking about it now, I just used metal pliers which obviously cooled it right down. The other one was the steady hand. Not had one of those for many years, coupled with the fact it was bloody cold, and I was shaking like a stting dog. Suffice to say I gave up in the end and bought a second hand glass. (It was only an old snotter but I was trying to save money)

Incidentally, I was told silver solder was a preferred option, though it wasn't specified why. Any truth in this, just as a matter of interest?

[Penelope Stopit]

daveenty said:

Hopefully not an idiotic response, but I tried this method on one of mine and failed miserably. I wish I'd read this before I attempted it, as there are a couple of subtle nuances I missed. The cardboard on the terminal to prevent heat loss was one. It's a logical thing thinking about it now, I just used metal pliers which obviously cooled it right down. The other one was the steady hand. Not had one of those for many years, coupled with the fact it was bloody cold, and I was shaking like a stting dog. Suffice to say I gave up in the end and bought a second hand glass. (It was only an old snotter but I was trying to save money)

Incidentally, I was told silver solder was a preferred option, though it wasn't specified why. Any truth in this, just as a matter of interest?

I have never used silver solder for this type of job so am unable to comment, the solder I used did have lead in it hence it flowed nicely
Shaking hands are the biggest problem when doing this type of soldering, in having problems myself in keeping things steady, I discovered a very good method, what I do if in any way possible is never have the hand unsupported in the air and pushing hard down or up, I always try to use something as a support for my arm or hand and work that out before making a start. When soldering a screen terminal back on I would be resting my arm in a comfortable position on the inside of the screen or have my wrist resting against the inside of the tailgate and apply gentle pressure on the pliers so as not to stress my arm and start shaking more than usual

[Penelope Stopit]

Sheepshanks said:

I was looking at this yesterday as our Tiguan seems to have a break in some of the elements and found this old post which still has some valid solutions, including for the tab: http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?t=792...

High conductivity paint (I think thats what its called) from RS Components does a very good job in repairing breaks in HRW elements, I haven't viewed the link you posted but it is probably the same sort of fix, I will view your link later, thanks.

[paintman]

I've used the solder method on the rear screen of mine some years ago & it worked fine.
And the 'silver paint' type stuff (By Granville IIRC) for repairing damage in the wires to that & other previous cars & that worked too although the mask that comes with the kit is a bit wide & I used masking tape to keep the thickness down.
The frostfighter link in the link given seems to be a 'does everything' including re-attaching the tab.
I did toy with the idea of trying to get some of the alarm tape that you see on shop windows but I've never managed to bump into somebody doing one so I haven't progressed it.

Edited by paintman on Sunday 27th November 17:01

[phillpot]

daveenty said:

Incidentally, I was told silver solder was a preferred option, though it wasn't specified why. Any truth in this, just as a matter of interest?

Silver solder requires a torch to reach melting point, which is in excess of 450 degrees C.

Soft solder on the other hand typically melts around 200 degrees C

Edited by phillpot on Sunday 27th November 22:31

[Glassman]

Pays to heat the glass from the outside before soldering.

[Penelope Stopit]

Glassman said:

Pays to heat the glass from the outside before soldering.

Good tip Glassman, especially on a cold winters day