Outer CV joint stuck in hub, what next?

Outer CV joint stuck in hub, what next?

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Discussion

E-bmw

9,224 posts

152 months

Tuesday 20th December 2016
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Of course remembering NOT to hit the "frozen" bit!

Lugy

Original Poster:

830 posts

183 months

Tuesday 20th December 2016
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I'm ashamed to say I've still not managed to do anything with the poor wee car, in my defence, I've been working 12 hour days/nights though!

Going to hopefully do something about it when I finish up on Friday though, the liquid nitrogen idea sounds fun though I don't think I'd be trusted not to freeze everything then smash it laugh.

kev b

2,715 posts

166 months

Tuesday 20th December 2016
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I have been following this thread with interest as last year I needed to replace a rear wheel bearing on my E46 BMW.

Despite my best efforts the driveshaft would not come free and eventually I decided it was more expedient to replace the whole assembly with one from a breakers.

I believe the bearing failed because years of over zealous pressure washing had forced moisture past the seals and probably rusted the shaft into the hub, anyhow it was going nowhere.

Interestingly I was keen to prevent this happening again if the unknown quality scrapyard bearing failed so I coated the hub splines with copaslip. This done, the shaft would not fit into hub until it was wiped clean, ie the fit between components was so close that the addition of a minute layer of anti-seize stopped the shaft from sliding into place.

I would think that the only way of parting these components is by repeatedly using heat and penetrant fluid combined with a hydraulic puller. A workshop press is no use as there is no way to hold the assembly and apply pressure evenly.

S0 What

3,358 posts

172 months

Wednesday 21st December 2016
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Dive shaft splines usually have a plastic coating to stop them rusting in place, at lest most OEM ones do, cheap aftermarket one normaly don't and i copper slip those, done it many, many times without issue but the coated ones will be too tight a fit to take much grease, a teflon coating can be used in those cases to ease future removal smile
As for the press i make up a holder for the hub/upright by welding lots of bits of angle iron together to get it straight under the press, that's what you pay for when you get a garage to do it, not just the tools but the ability to adapt on the fly and fab tools when and where needed wink



Edited by S0 What on Wednesday 21st December 11:35

kev b

2,715 posts

166 months

Wednesday 21st December 2016
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I have removed hundreds of driveshafts and most have been an easy sliding fit, greased or not, a tap with a copper hammer soon shifts them.

My stuck BMW driveshaft, hub and bearing were factory fitted, when I looked for advice I found I was by no means the first to struggle with this job.

Lugy

Original Poster:

830 posts

183 months

Thursday 22nd December 2016
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kev b, I think a BMW rear wheel bearing is just one of those jobs destined to become a ball ache! I had a nightmare doing it on one of my 740s, took quite an effort to get the shaft out but in the end brute force won! IIRC a mate had a similar problem on his 540.

E-bmw

9,224 posts

152 months

Thursday 22nd December 2016
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Done a few on e36 & e39s, guess I must have been lucky as had no major issues & certainly never had to resort to brute force.