2005 fiat doblo all right indicators not working

[robbocop33]

Anyone familiar with the wonderful world of Fiat electrics?,just bought a high top Doblo.The hazard lights only illuminate left indicators,left indicators work ok from stalk also,however all right indicators don't work from either hazard switch or indicator stalk.
Indicator light on dash flashes quickly like you get with a bad bulb(all bulbs ok)
After a quick look at a wiring diagram no indicator relay,eek!Bcm controlled?So i'm going to check right side indicator outputs from BCM,but for quickness sake are there any common places wires chaff on these?Failing that are faults on the bcm circuit board common?Thanks!

[E-bmw]

Before delving as deep as that I would be checking for 12v at the bulb holder as I have many times over the years found the back spring to be not making contact with the bulb due to a ham-fisted predecessor.

[How u doing]

Start at the fuse box then work either up or down stream.

[Captain Answer]

If they are all out then assume its issue is quite high in the chain I would think so check the BCM then work either up or down

Get yourself a multi-meter then I would usually work "upstream" back to the BCM, probe whatever is easiest (usually front indicators) with the hazards on and see voltage step up and down one side but not the other at each point i.e. bulb holder, connector to lights both side then work up till you find where things have gone wrong

[robbocop33]

So far i've checked voltage on good side,it fluctuates off and on ok,on bad side i get 0.01 volts going on and off??Here is the diagram,three indicators on the right of the row of six at the bottom are the faulty ones.

[Martin30]

I have been googling similar recently trying to remote diagnose a friend's Ford with the same issue. That also has BCM controlled indicators.

General consensus is that a short/high resistance in the lamp cluster somewhere is sensed by the BCM which flags a fault code, but won't re-enable the indicators until the short is solved and the fault cleared. I'd be clearing any/all corrosion you can on the lamp cluster pins and sockets, cleaning any body earth points near the clusters, and then clearing the fault code (or trusting that the BCM is clever enough to see the removal of short, and re-enable).

Martin.

[Penelope Stopit]

Remember some of your previous posts, hence know that you know what you're doing when it comes to testing

Try disconnecting BCM and measure the current consumption of each indicator bulb, compare LH with RH

Allow bulbs to warm up before noting the readings, 10 seconds should be enough

[E-bmw]

Penelope Stopit said:

Remember some of your previous posts, hence know that you know what you're doing when it comes to testing

Try disconnecting BCM and measure the current consumption of each indicator bulb, compare LH with RH

Allow bulbs to warm up before noting the readings, 10 seconds should be enough

Pardon my ignorance but surely you won't get current with the BCM disconnected (I am assuming you mean in the indicator cct) did you mean resistance of the cct?

[robbocop33]

I've used a power probe direct to the positive at the bulb and gave it a feed,bulb lit!,which rules out bulb and i know now the earth side is fine automatically.One fault code has appeared b1007 ,incorrect direction lamp?
Removed rear passenger light unit and had a chuckle that rear side light bulb was missing!!(i've just bought the car)Could it have just been that?No!,Renewed all indicator and side light bulbs,cleared codes,re read codes and they were gone,however indicator fault still remains damnit.
I've been down at the bcm and tested every pink wire coming out,the ones i'm getting a live feed on aren't making the test light go off and on like i expected,just a constant live feed.

Edited by robbocop33 on Friday 7th May 17:27

[Penelope Stopit]

E-bmw said:

Penelope Stopit said:

Remember some of your previous posts, hence know that you know what you're doing when it comes to testing

Try disconnecting BCM and measure the current consumption of each indicator bulb, compare LH with RH

Allow bulbs to warm up before noting the readings, 10 seconds should be enough

Pardon my ignorance but surely you won't get current with the BCM disconnected (I am assuming you mean in the indicator cct) did you mean resistance of the cct?

[Martin30]

robbocop33 said:

I've used a power probe direct to the positive at the bulb and gave it a feed,bulb lit!,which rules out bulb and i know now the earth side is fine automatically.One fault code has appeared b1007 ,incorrect direction lamp?
Removed rear passenger light unit and had a chuckle that rear side light bulb was missing!!(i've just bought the car)Could it have just been that?No!,Renewed all indicator and side light bulbs,cleared codes,re read codes and they were gone,however indicator fault still remains damnit.
I've been down at the bcm and tested every pink wire coming out,the ones i'm getting a live feed on aren't making the test light go off and on like i expected,just a constant live feed.

Edited by robbocop33 on Friday 7th May 17:27

I went to help the friend with the Ford last night displaying the same issues as you, well in his case, all LH indicators not working.

On his, the BCM disables the faulty indicators - if yours is the same, you won't see any power at the BCM pins. Clearing the fault code worked, *until* you tried the faulty indicators again, at which point fault re-appears and the BCM disables all indicators.

So, I needed to remove the fault that the BCM was seeing (trailer wiring in his case), *and* clear the fault code again before the indicators would work. Can I suggest removing/disconnecting the light clusters, clearing the BCM fault code, then plugging back in one at a time?

Martin.

[robbocop33]

I'll try that,however today discovered something else,rear lights on mine are from top to bottom on the left,double filament brake/taillight bulb,then indicator,then reversing light,then rear foglight,rear right cluster should be the same as left side,however bottom socket should be bulb free??It's a reflector!!
So that 'might' be my problem as both mines have a bulb in the bottom.I'll remember what you said though regarding codes once i've got bulbs correct,thanks!

[E-bmw]

Penelope Stopit said:

E-bmw said:

Penelope Stopit said:

Remember some of your previous posts, hence know that you know what you're doing when it comes to testing

Try disconnecting BCM and measure the current consumption of each indicator bulb, compare LH with RH

Allow bulbs to warm up before noting the readings, 10 seconds should be enough

Pardon my ignorance but surely you won't get current with the BCM disconnected (I am assuming you mean in the indicator cct) did you mean resistance of the cct?

See what you mean, carry on.

[robbocop33]

Just incase this helps anyone,finally,well think i've at least discovered the 'result' of whatever has gone wrong.Found the output wires on the BCM to the 'good' inicators on the passenger side,test light was flashing on and off like it should with the pulsed signal to the indicators,however,the pink wire supplying the bad side 'wasn't' lighting my test light!Plus,on cutting the wiring loom electrical tape back i discovered the pink wires plastic covering had melted!!!All the way up the wire!!
Unfortunately i think the indicator relay soldered onto the BCM circuit board has blown and melted my wire!
Not really something i wanted to discover on my first week of owning the car.
So i take it these relays aren't sold seperately,and i just have to buy a used bcm donor part?

[Penelope Stopit]

robbocop33 said:

Just incase this helps anyone,finally,well think i've at least discovered the 'result' of whatever has gone wrong.Found the output wires on the BCM to the 'good' inicators on the passenger side,test light was flashing on and off like it should with the pulsed signal to the indicators,however,the pink wire supplying the bad side 'wasn't' lighting my test light!Plus,on cutting the wiring loom electrical tape back i discovered the pink wires plastic covering had melted!!!All the way up the wire!!
Unfortunately i think the indicator relay soldered onto the BCM circuit board has blown and melted my wire!
Not really something i wanted to discover on my first week of owning the car.
So i take it these relays aren't sold seperately,and i just have to buy a used bcm donor part?

Surely there's the possibility that there was a short on something and someone bridged out or fitted an incorrect fuse which then caused melt-down through the cable and relay

Most relays can be found and bought

[Penelope Stopit]

E-bmw said:

Penelope Stopit said:

E-bmw said:

Penelope Stopit said:

Remember some of your previous posts, hence know that you know what you're doing when it comes to testing

Try disconnecting BCM and measure the current consumption of each indicator bulb, compare LH with RH

Allow bulbs to warm up before noting the readings, 10 seconds should be enough

Pardon my ignorance but surely you won't get current with the BCM disconnected (I am assuming you mean in the indicator cct) did you mean resistance of the cct?

See what you mean, carry on.

Phew, will do

[robbocop33]

Penelope Stopit said:

Surely there's the possibility that there was a short on something and someone bridged out or fitted an incorrect fuse which then caused melt-down through the cable and relay

Most relays can be found and bought

My thinking was since this melted wire was an output from the bcm,the indicator relay which is soldered onto the bcm mainboard has shorted,melting this indicator supply wire?
I definetly thought of a short elsewhere but it's just the fact the output is dead right where it comes out the bcm.
Incidentally i have hit the supply wires to the indicators at various points with my powerprobe,giving the wire 12 volts directly, and the nearby indicator bulb lights!!So wiring integrity seems to be fine 'most' places i've checked.

Edited by robbocop33 on Monday 10th May 09:23

[Penelope Stopit]

robbocop33 said:

Penelope Stopit said:

Surely there's the possibility that there was a short on something and someone bridged out or fitted an incorrect fuse which then caused melt-down through the cable and relay

Most relays can be found and bought

My thinking was since this melted wire was an output from the bcm,the indicator relay which is soldered onto the bcm mainboard has shorted,melting this indicator supply wire?
I definetly thought of a short elsewhere but it's just the fact the output is dead right where it comes out the bcm.

Had misunderstood some of your post (input melt-down rather than output) but..............

The relay is switching the fused supply and the correct fuse will blow before an output cable overheats

[robbocop33]

All fuses are fine,checked them first.I think the indicator relay in the bcm only has two jobs to do,operate right or left indicators,and one side of the relay to the right indicators has just said no,had enough.

Edited by robbocop33 on Monday 10th May 11:18

[Penelope Stopit]

robbocop33 said:

All fuses are fine,checked them first.I think the indicator relay in the bcm only has two jobs to do,operate right or left indicators,and one side of the relay to the right indicators has just said no,had enough.

Someone did something wrong to overheat a cable