L200 EGR pipe problem
Discussion
Excuse my lack of technical terminology here, I will endeavour to explain as basic as I can.
I’m having this recurring issue where I can’t tighten sufficiently the first section of pipe attached to the manifold that connects to the EGR cooler without stripping the thread and so the exhaust gasses are pushing through and demolishing the gasket.
My question is is there a way to permanently affix each part together?
The parts themselves are the coolant outlet and as i said the link pipe between the aforementioned and the EGR cooler.
I’m having this recurring issue where I can’t tighten sufficiently the first section of pipe attached to the manifold that connects to the EGR cooler without stripping the thread and so the exhaust gasses are pushing through and demolishing the gasket.
My question is is there a way to permanently affix each part together?
The parts themselves are the coolant outlet and as i said the link pipe between the aforementioned and the EGR cooler.
E-bmw said:
I suspect you may be either over-tightening or have a defective gasket.
Find out what the ACTUAL torque required is, as a first step, then have a closer look at the metal faces for distortion/damage and then any gaskets/seal in there.
It’s gone beyond the reason why now, it didn’t initially tighten to a point where there was resistance and the opposing thread slug tightened up solid.Find out what the ACTUAL torque required is, as a first step, then have a closer look at the metal faces for distortion/damage and then any gaskets/seal in there.
Now its a case of how can i affix the two parts together permanently without buying yet another replacement?
Craig3942 said:
E-bmw said:
I suspect you may be either over-tightening or have a defective gasket.
Find out what the ACTUAL torque required is, as a first step, then have a closer look at the metal faces for distortion/damage and then any gaskets/seal in there.
It’s gone beyond the reason why now, Find out what the ACTUAL torque required is, as a first step, then have a closer look at the metal faces for distortion/damage and then any gaskets/seal in there.
Craig3942 said:
it didn’t initially tighten to a point where there was resistance and the opposing thread slug tightened up solid.
Not sure exactly what you are saying here. What does "thread slug tightened up solid" mean?If you are saying you fully tightened up one side but the other wasn't tight then you are doing it up wrong, it should be done up the same on both sides evenly.
Craig3942 said:
Now its a case of how can i affix the two parts together permanently without buying yet another replacement?
As above, you need to fully understand why rather than trying to potentially over-tighten something, maybe some pics would help.Piece 1 has two threaded slugs. Piece 2 has two holes for the slugs to slot into with a gasket in between 1 & 2. They are then fixed together with a nut on each slug. Slug A spins continuously when tightening the nut whilst slug B and its nut is fully tight.
Slug A’s orrifice no longer has thread. I haven’t excessively tightened it beyond a clear limit of resistance yet it continues to spin without resistance.
Can the two pieces be fixed together without creating further damage for example welding?
Slug A’s orrifice no longer has thread. I haven’t excessively tightened it beyond a clear limit of resistance yet it continues to spin without resistance.
Can the two pieces be fixed together without creating further damage for example welding?
What do you mean by 'slug'? It's clearly not a typo (for stud?) as you persist in using the term.
It sounds like a fairly conventional flat faced flange joint. If you try to weld the two flanges together, you are entering a one-way street; there is no guarantee you will succeed in sealing it (dissimilar metals? / access?) and you will then have two components to replace rather than just the one at present.
The best way to fix things is to fit them as the original design intended, not bodge it (unless you are in the middle of a desert and the enemy is coming).
It sounds like a fairly conventional flat faced flange joint. If you try to weld the two flanges together, you are entering a one-way street; there is no guarantee you will succeed in sealing it (dissimilar metals? / access?) and you will then have two components to replace rather than just the one at present.
The best way to fix things is to fit them as the original design intended, not bodge it (unless you are in the middle of a desert and the enemy is coming).
Craig3942 said:
ta264 said:
It sounds like Slug A's orifice needs a helicoil (assuming a slug is actually a stud)
Maybe it is a stud but I’ve only ever known it to be called a slug. However yes helicoil would be an option but i’ve never done it. Is it an easy job or better off with a professional?Just take a pic so we all know what you mean as I suspect there is well over 100 years of experience between everyone that has answered so far & none of us know what you mean.
Edited by E-bmw on Wednesday 24th April 11:40
I think by 'slug's orifice' he means the threaded hole into which the stud screws.
If the stud is spinning, the next question is whether it's the thread on the stud or the thread in the hole which has stripped. So that needs to come out... try to unscrew it whilst simultaneously applying some withdrawing force.
Then post pics.
If the stud is spinning, the next question is whether it's the thread on the stud or the thread in the hole which has stripped. So that needs to come out... try to unscrew it whilst simultaneously applying some withdrawing force.
Then post pics.
I agree with the others,we really need a picture to make sense of the issue.
It sounds to me like either you've got two mating flanges not quite going together and are trying to use the torquing up of the fastener to pull them into position, or flanges which are distorted and will still leak if torqued up correctly.
I thought perhsps "slug" was a misinterpretation of "lug"?
It sounds to me like either you've got two mating flanges not quite going together and are trying to use the torquing up of the fastener to pull them into position, or flanges which are distorted and will still leak if torqued up correctly.
I thought perhsps "slug" was a misinterpretation of "lug"?
TwinKam said:
I think by 'slug's orifice' he means the threaded hole into which the stud screws.
If the stud is spinning, the next question is whether it's the thread on the stud or the thread in the hole which has stripped. So that needs to come out... try to unscrew it whilst simultaneously applying some withdrawing force.
Then post pics.
Exactly this. The stud is out of the hole and in tact with no damage to the thread so then I assume it will be the thread in the hole that is compromised? If the stud is spinning, the next question is whether it's the thread on the stud or the thread in the hole which has stripped. So that needs to come out... try to unscrew it whilst simultaneously applying some withdrawing force.
Then post pics.
Yes I think you're right, the thread in the hole is likely damaged. I had a similar problem with a stud for my exhaust manifold on my Elise.
Have a good look in the hole and you'll probably be able to see the damage if the stud is just spinning. An inspection mirror might help.
I had it fixed with a helicoil. For me access in place wasn't really possible so I took the head off the engine and sent it off to be ported and have the thread repaired with a helicoil.
If access is good a DIY helicoil is doable I think but I haven't got any experience myself.
Have a good look in the hole and you'll probably be able to see the damage if the stud is just spinning. An inspection mirror might help.
I had it fixed with a helicoil. For me access in place wasn't really possible so I took the head off the engine and sent it off to be ported and have the thread repaired with a helicoil.
If access is good a DIY helicoil is doable I think but I haven't got any experience myself.
A 'helicoil' (thread insert) necessitates the damaged hole to be drilled and tapped, you'll need space to get a straight shot at it, the drilling will require the most space but a cut down drill bit in a right-angled drill helps reduce that, the tapping and inserting probably only needs 3" clearance.
At the risk of repeating myself here by saying how much pics would help us to help advise you. Bored now.
At the risk of repeating myself here by saying how much pics would help us to help advise you. Bored now.
Happy so far. Conscious I have ignored requests for photos; I’m not able to for a few weeks so just trying to get ahead with solutions and booking in with the appropriate people.
What you say makes the most sense and sounds exactly the same as your issue. I can and have previously removed the damaged part so that shouldn’t be a problem to send off when I’m in a position to do so.
What you say makes the most sense and sounds exactly the same as your issue. I can and have previously removed the damaged part so that shouldn’t be a problem to send off when I’m in a position to do so.
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