BMW 540i touring e39 (lpg)
Discussion
Long time listener, first time caller. After having injector issues with my mk5 golf tdi I decided what I needed was a petrol with lpg.
I spent at least 45 minutes scouring eBay before I came across this beauty
A couple of messages back and forth and I set off to meet what must be the most honest seller I have ever encountered. The car was sold as spares and repairs, the main issues are the abs/traction control light are on and the self levelling suspension inactive warning is on.
The car came with loads of paperwork and a full tank of lpg. I drove the car 80 miles home without incident (the rear suspension does seem a little hard) and now it's time to get cracking. I will get some proper photos up in the next couple of days.
I spent at least 45 minutes scouring eBay before I came across this beauty
A couple of messages back and forth and I set off to meet what must be the most honest seller I have ever encountered. The car was sold as spares and repairs, the main issues are the abs/traction control light are on and the self levelling suspension inactive warning is on.
The car came with loads of paperwork and a full tank of lpg. I drove the car 80 miles home without incident (the rear suspension does seem a little hard) and now it's time to get cracking. I will get some proper photos up in the next couple of days.
These are really rare and good clean ones don't come up for sale very often. I've got a saved eBay search for a touring 540i sport and just recently one has come up for sale, literally the first nice one in 5 months. Only issue is seller has no feedback.
I'd really like to own one of these one day.
I'd really like to own one of these one day.
I recently had a similar issue with the rear suspension. Turned out to be a sensor, nice cheap easy fix, hope yours is the same.
The abs could be a sensor or it could be the abs ecu. You can get them repaired easy enough and at the same time the heat sheild in them beefed up a bit.
Nice purchase.
The abs could be a sensor or it could be the abs ecu. You can get them repaired easy enough and at the same time the heat sheild in them beefed up a bit.
Nice purchase.
Hopefully just a sensor while waiting until next week to get it into the garage I had a look at the headlights which are hazed and also have condensation inside them. 
I have a buffer and plenty of 2000/2500 sandpaper so will have a crack at sorting the hazing out. The condensation could be more difficult.
I have a buffer and plenty of 2000/2500 sandpaper so will have a crack at sorting the hazing out. The condensation could be more difficult.
Looks like it has a lot of potential.
Before you get stuck in too far, check the pollen filter housing drains are not blocked and make sure the foam under the carpet is dry. The foam is about 3 inches thick in places and acts like a big sponge, not helpful when there are electronics boxes under the carpet too...
Also get the sill under covers, jacking point blocks and undertrays off and have a good check for rust. Have a good look around the rear end of the sills and the vertical bulkhead in front of the fuel tank where it meets the inner sills. don't ask me how I know this... Only plus side is that I can now weld reasonably well!
Before you get stuck in too far, check the pollen filter housing drains are not blocked and make sure the foam under the carpet is dry. The foam is about 3 inches thick in places and acts like a big sponge, not helpful when there are electronics boxes under the carpet too...
Also get the sill under covers, jacking point blocks and undertrays off and have a good check for rust. Have a good look around the rear end of the sills and the vertical bulkhead in front of the fuel tank where it meets the inner sills. don't ask me how I know this... Only plus side is that I can now weld reasonably well!
Yep, at the bottom of the windscreen, take the filters out and there will be a finger-sized drain towards the engine and a thicker one that goes into the inner wing. They get filled up with leaves and then water drains down into the air con unit and down through the foot vents and under the carpet.
My e39 is currently sat on axle stands with no exhaust, prop shaft or fuel tank while I finish off sorting the (very localised) rot out of the floor pans. Rest of it is minty mint so couldn't bear to scrap it, against the advice of people on here :-)
My e39 is currently sat on axle stands with no exhaust, prop shaft or fuel tank while I finish off sorting the (very localised) rot out of the floor pans. Rest of it is minty mint so couldn't bear to scrap it, against the advice of people on here :-)
I'll be checking that tomorrow then, I had a quick look under the cabin filters and there didn't look to be too much debris. How would I test if it's blocked? Bang some water down it? I also have a fancy wet/dry vac that blows as well as sucks maybe I could use that? Good luck getting yours sorted!
I've had my 540 touring (also LPG converted) for 2.5 years now. The main problems I've had were all cooling related. These run at 105-125deg so the coolant is under a lot of pressure. I'm going to stick a 90deg thermostat in it as many others have done as I've got fed up of chasing round the cooling system replacing bits!
Apart from that though they're great cars and wouldn't be without mine
Apart from that though they're great cars and wouldn't be without mine
I'd love one of these.
If anyone comes across a saloon sport 540i in either the rare manual or auto, in a dark colour that is sensible money and mileage without a black interior then I'd be interested. Especially interested if it needs a bit of work.
tall order, I know but they are thin on the ground!
If anyone comes across a saloon sport 540i in either the rare manual or auto, in a dark colour that is sensible money and mileage without a black interior then I'd be interested. Especially interested if it needs a bit of work.
tall order, I know but they are thin on the ground!
Had a crack at the headlights, drilled four 3mm holes into the top of the lights then kept the lights on whilst driving about. This removed most of the moisture, then sanded the lenses starting at 800 wet and dry and finishing at 2500.
One done:
Not perfect but you can see the difference from the other side:
One done:
Not perfect but you can see the difference from the other side:
Not much going on apart from a bill for just about what I paid for the whole car. Replaced the valve cover gasket (the car was chucking all over the drive)
Front discs and pads
Couple of auxiliary belts
Oil and filter change
Air filter
Repair broken wire for air suspension ( which fixed it :-))
Replaced wheel sensor (still have abs and dsc lights :-( on the dash)
A grand total of £613 so the car owes a total of £1238
Fuel economy hasn't been terrible it's averaging about 15-17ppm on lpg.
Next job is sending the abs Ecu off to have it rebuilt suggestions for the best place to get this done are welcome.
Front discs and pads
Couple of auxiliary belts
Oil and filter change
Air filter
Repair broken wire for air suspension ( which fixed it :-))
Replaced wheel sensor (still have abs and dsc lights :-( on the dash)
A grand total of £613 so the car owes a total of £1238
Fuel economy hasn't been terrible it's averaging about 15-17ppm on lpg.
Next job is sending the abs Ecu off to have it rebuilt suggestions for the best place to get this done are welcome.
http://www.actronics.eu/en/shop/bmw-5-series-e39-1...
These are the people i used. Quick service and never had a problem since.
Had it done about 5 years ago.
These are the people i used. Quick service and never had a problem since.
Had it done about 5 years ago.
Have you read the fault codes? ABS and DSC lights can have multiple causes, and having a look at your error codes could save you some time and money.
I had a problem recently with the DSC light on all the time, as well as a number of other codes. Turns out it was a failed MAF sensor and a £40 eBay secondhand part fixed the lot.
andrewrob - unlock the hidden menu (Google shall provide) and have a look at Test Nr. 7 - live coolant temperature. The gauge on the dash is buffered and by the time it moves into the red the damage is done. Mine cycles between 102 and 110 degrees, but never goes above that.
Also, if it's not been changed, your auxilliary electric fan (in front of the rad) is unlikely to be working. That's one of the lines of defence against overheating and it's worth fixing.
I had a problem recently with the DSC light on all the time, as well as a number of other codes. Turns out it was a failed MAF sensor and a £40 eBay secondhand part fixed the lot.
andrewrob - unlock the hidden menu (Google shall provide) and have a look at Test Nr. 7 - live coolant temperature. The gauge on the dash is buffered and by the time it moves into the red the damage is done. Mine cycles between 102 and 110 degrees, but never goes above that.
Also, if it's not been changed, your auxilliary electric fan (in front of the rad) is unlikely to be working. That's one of the lines of defence against overheating and it's worth fixing.
Edited by S. Gonzales Esq. on Sunday 28th August 12:27
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