Discussion
Mark
A few of the race cars I to spanner on have centre locks not sure why you would want them on a road car.
You have to back them off after a track session, torque them before you go out, any where between 300nm and 650nm so you need a big wrench and check with the wheel supplier on the spec.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Omega-Mechanix-M500N-Tor...
They have a habit of seizing on if they go through a big heat cycle and some time randomly.
A few of the race cars I to spanner on have centre locks not sure why you would want them on a road car.
You have to back them off after a track session, torque them before you go out, any where between 300nm and 650nm so you need a big wrench and check with the wheel supplier on the spec.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Omega-Mechanix-M500N-Tor...
They have a habit of seizing on if they go through a big heat cycle and some time randomly.
eBay for that I would say. The centre locks on my road GT3 (which are not racing items and do not play well with impact tools, hence require manual stuff to change with 600Nm of torque) are somewhat less of a pain with the right equipment. I sourced a used Norbar 4R from a friend for a hundred quid to put them on, but for removal I use a torque multiplier (Norbar HT3 {5:1 multiplier rated to 1300Nm} from eBay, about £120 IIRC, which is way less than retail) with a 750mm breaker bar to get them off. It is a much more practical solution than a 6' bar...
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